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[General] Another VL (and possibly more) High beam fuse fix

Jxfwsf

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Does your VL fuse box look like this?

melted.jpg


to start with you'll need a standard spdt relay that will handle the current

Heavy wire, depending on wattage of globes you'll be running, i used cable that will handle 40A to run 4 x 100W h/beam globes.
If you're running standard 55W globes you want cable that will handle 20A (rough equation to work with, Wattage / Volts = Amps so 55w X 4 = 220W, more maths, 220W / 12V = 18.3333A we'll round up to 20A, using a heavier gauge is a good thing but you can't go a lower gauge)

6 female spade plugs to suit the wire gauge (these also double up as a handy fuse holder)

2 eyelet's to suit the wire gauge also to connect straight on the battery terminals.

Soldering iron, solder & some heat shrink

If your current fuse is still working and not blown just leave it or you can replace it with a lower amperage fuse if blown as this mod takes most of the load off the fuse and existing wiring.

Time to massacre the existing wiring loom, start at the passenger side and find the h/beam feed wire and cut it before it goes to the plug.
Insulate the end that is coming from the body loom and put it aside.

insulate.jpg



Now move to the wire going into the plug and join your nice new piece of wire to it and insualte (i used 3 layers of heatshrink on all joins)

plug.jpg



Feed the wire across the radiator support panel and tuck it in somewhere safe and out of the way.
Find the headlight plug and chop the green wire close to the plug like you did on the passenger side.
Strip some insulation from the new wire that will line up close to the green wire from the plug and splice them together.

splice.jpg



Now strip the green wire that is free on the drivers side and put a spade plug on it and plug it onto the relay.
Work out where you'll be locating the relay and make 2 leads with an eyelet on one end and a spade on the other

1 will go between the relay and the positive terminal on the battery, this lead needs to be cut in half and add a spade plug on each free end (this is the fuse holder)

The other will go between the relay and the negative terminal on the battery.

splice.jpg



Schematic.jpg


You should have something like this:

relay.jpg


Now you have successfully saved the stock fuse box from any more damage.
The main advantage of this mod is less voltage drop to the headlights and brighter lights, upgrading this wiring also allows you to run higher wattage globes (higher wattage globes may be illegal in your state so do some research)
 
Last edited:

Jxfwsf

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well done on that right up mate

Thanks.

I should've added that the reason these fuses melt is not caused from using the wrong globes.
Due to the location of the fuse box being so far away from the battery the length of wiring and the weakest link is the fuse terminal & holder, also being close to the exhaust.
Relocating the fuse and relay as i have in this how to rectifies this problem, pretty much what holden did to VN's and newer models.
 
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FNQVL

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Thanks.

I should've added that the reason these fuses melt is not caused from using the wrong globes.
Due to the location of the fuse box being so far away from the battery the length of wiring and the weakest link is the fuse terminal & holder, also being close to the exhaust.
Relocating the fuse and relay as i have in this how to rectifies this problem, pretty much what holden did to VN's and newer models.



Just joined the forum... you've saved me money already!
Thanks for this thread, exactly what I've got so I'll get onto it this weekend.
Cheers,
Paul.
 

lukee1986

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Does your VL fuse box look like this?

melted.jpg


to start with you'll need a standard spdt relay that will handle the current

Heavy wire, depending on wattage of globes you'll be running, i used cable that will handle 40A to run 4 x 100W h/beam globes.
If you're running standard 55W globes you want cable that will handle 20A (rough equation to work with, Wattage / Volts = Amps so 55w X 4 = 220W, more maths, 220W / 12V = 18.3333A we'll round up to 20A, using a heavier gauge is a good thing but you can't go a lower gauge)

6 female spade plugs to suit the wire gauge (these also double up as a handy fuse holder)

2 eyelet's to suit the wire gauge also to connect straight on the battery terminals.

Soldering iron, solder & some heat shrink

If your current fuse is still working and not blown just leave it or you can replace it with a lower amperage fuse if blown as this mod takes most of the load off the fuse and existing wiring.

Time to massacre the existing wiring loom, start at the passenger side and find the h/beam feed wire and cut it before it goes to the plug.
Insulate the end that is coming from the body loom and put it aside.

insulate.jpg



Now move to the wire going into the plug and join your nice new piece of wire to it and insualte (i used 3 layers of heatshrink on all joins)

plug.jpg



Feed the wire across the radiator support panel and tuck it in somewhere safe and out of the way.
Find the headlight plug and chop the green wire close to the plug like you did on the passenger side.
Strip some insulation from the new wire that will line up close to the green wire from the plug and splice them together.

splice.jpg



Now strip the green wire that is free on the drivers side and put a spade plug on it and plug it onto the relay.
Work out where you'll be locating the relay and make 2 leads with an eyelet on one end and a spade on the other

1 will go between the relay and the positive terminal on the battery, this lead needs to be cut in half and add a spade plug on each free end (this is the fuse holder)

The other will go between the relay and the negative terminal on the battery.

splice.jpg



Schematic.jpg


You should have something like this:

relay.jpg


Now you have successfully saved the stock fuse box from any more damage.
The main advantage of this mod is less voltage drop to the headlights and brighter lights, upgrading this wiring also allows you to run higher wattage globes (higher wattage globes may be illegal in your state so do some research)
none of the photos are there
 

Dylan kingswood

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From my experience I’ve found vls with CD players have always had the burnt fuse box and standard tape deck is always not burnt could be coincidence
 
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