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Anyone got a VZ Cross 8 Crewman? (But now I have one :) )

Fu Manchu

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Finished the extra rear loom off at the front. Tesa tape. Tucked away along the factory loom.

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Added some labels because it’s the only way to know what they are without a diagram. If someone opens this up, they will know straight away.
I dislike the extra camera cable like that, but it will have to do. I’ve never made an RCA cable before, and not being able to test it, I’m not going to make that moment now. I think in hind sight, next time, I will do away with the RCAs and convert to wire. Factory VE VF camera works fine via two wires. It’s not a long distance for the signal to run.
It includes two or three spare wires for adding lighting to the tray area at a later date. That will be led strip hidden under aluminum u channel along the lid and switched with a extra long Narva door switch.



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This is the rear firewall where the loom exits the interior. Rear seat is still out, showing the storage compartments that are under the seats.
Still have seal up the hole I made in the seal. Left a little extra inside if I ever have to maneuver the loom grommet for some reason. Handy.
Will reconnect the earth after I clean it up a bit.


Also fixed in the speaker looms and reattached the splitters. Held with Velcro. Labeled on the top and labeled on the connections.

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Cable tied along the factory loom. I’ve added foam along the factory loom to protect from rubbing.

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All the looms terminate/are plugged around the kick panel just as the factory looms do. That way if the dash ever comes out, the looms I’ve added are disconnected in the same place and make the job as easy as possible. All are labeled to make it easy if someone else does work on it.
 
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Fu Manchu

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I guess once I seal that grommet, I start putting the interior back in.

Then to start cleaning the underneath of the car.
Clean the lifetime of grot and oil from the engine and trans.
Clean the wheel wells.

Paint the wheels.

Fix drive shaft

Bumper back on.

Detail the paint.
 
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Jolls

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Following with great interest. Once I get the pedal wiring sorted we will get her tuned and registered. Then I will be working on the rest of the electrical, interior and finally paint. Your guide so far has been extremely helpful in my planning.
 

Fu Manchu

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Today, I got the non existent seal on the ac ducting to the rear. There never was a seal on this duct and every Commodore has poor airflow to the back. So I have already done proper seals on the other ducts. Just this one almost unreachable main one under the HVAC.

I tried a few foam types and sizes. Also if putting the seal on the inside of the duct or outside of the duct from the HVAC was better. It’s definitely better on the outside of the main duct.

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I used thin pvc foam. Then wrapped the outside with tesa tape. This allows the ducts to slide on easier and not get stuck long term.

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It’s not as tidy as I’d like, but I had to use a trim tool to position it because there’s no way hands will fit. It’s going to have to do.

I think that disused plug for the front cigarette lighter will be handy to use for the lighting under the hard lid.

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The duct fits so well and I’m happy with the result, overall. (Bit hard to see the other end under the HVAC.)

Also finished off the loom from the kick panel to the back of the head unit. Has the video, reverse trigger wire and also included a brake light trigger wire for a forward facing parking camera. I made sure the loom can be removed without fuss, and didn’t fowl any of the HVAC actuators movements.

Still waiting for the gear shifter boot to come from the UK. Then I can get the gear selector back in. I recall, it’s a hard job getting the boot to stay on the plastic pins, so this time I’m using a flexible glue as well.
 

Fu Manchu

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Fair bit has been done. The rear seat back is in. Dummy fitted the centre console and trim to check wiring and do more insulating.

The gear boot arrived from the UK, so got that installed.

Not totally happy with it. Slightly too small. The base where it is held to the selector puts too much tension on the plastic tabs. Ended up loosing two tabs :(
 

Fu Manchu

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How to replace the boot on your VY-VZ.

I found three sources of the shift selector boots.
One in the US via Amazon. (Search 2004 Pontiac GTO)

One in the UK doing high grade leather ones.

Fair Spares in Melbourne have genuine or similar in factory vinyl.

I went with the UK one.

Let’s begin.
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Here are the two. Behind is the factory one.
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The hole in the new leather one is too small. They said to heat it with a heat gun. It worked. Stretched it over and no need for a cable tie like the factory one has.

However, the edge of the shifter knob is sharp and as the leather stretched so much, it stretched the grain out and peeled the skin a bit. Also broke the leather on the knob loose. So then I had to re-glue that.
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It’s just a regular shift knob under the leather.

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So I get this stuff. Doesn’t work. Wouldn’t bond at all. However it did remove all the old adhesive entirely and prepped the surface better than I already had.

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So I used this. Left over from the roof and interior trims. It was as good as empty. I got just enough out to do it. Phew.

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You can see the imperfect result.
 

Fu Manchu

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So now for the base frame. Fitted the button back in have to put in the gear indicator. I regreased it with some bearing grease. Probably should have used silicone grease in hindsight.

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Get the gear window back in. It sits into a recess. It’s not glued. Then the really tricky bit of getting the new boot over these little plastic pins. Fragile as too, so careful! It will want to keep coming off.

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Then keep it upside down and fit the base frame over it.
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It clips in over those tabs. They too can be fragile, so good idea to heat it a bit. Tip, when Unclipping this, don’t use a screw driver. Use a nylon trim tool. Slowly work the tabs off, starting at one end of the tab and work into the middle. It pops right off. Be gentle.

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Not too happy with the fit and the over stretched bit. The company are sending out another. They said it’s because I ordered a Calais one. :rolleyes: That middle bit sits up a bit and the window is a bit loose.

Then I needed to refit the satin chrome trim. I was able to replace mine with new ones.
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Two screws in there. Got the base in and then do the screws.

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The button pushes on. Grease up the spring.

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It’s in. I haven’t cleaned off the greasy schmutz off yet in the photo.

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Then do up the Phillips head screw in the back of the knob to hold it on.

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Fu Manchu

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I dummy fitted the centre console today.
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Repositioned the wiring under it. Also changed the usb cable across to the left, up under the duct.
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I covered the ducting and the drink holder with left over sound stuff.

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Data USB 3.0 and the other is charge. Also has a light in there now.
 

Fu Manchu

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On Friday and Saturday, got some painting done. I used a brush, which doesn’t matter, it will be covered by the seals. Rust converted, cleaned and zinc cold galv on. Then plenty of Heron White painted on. The brush meant no over spray going everywhere and minimal masking. It was quite pleasant work.

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You can see the worst one here. It’s all on the spot welds. Noticed the rear left spot welds actually go through the steel in spots. Someone was a bit keen with the amps. Were VZ’s welded by robots or people?

Wont get the seals on until the paint hardens.

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Then I thought I should do something about the door strikers. Got what was left of the plastic off. Going to try to melt some 6mm poly tube onto it. Or try some rubber tube on them maybe?

Cleaned them up. Gave them a spray with black zinc spray. Bolts done in silver.

Cleaned the paint under them with an APC. The texta will clean off with citrus oil.

I also retapped the thread for the sill trims. Painted the holes.
 
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