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Are there any drawback with a tune

H

harrop.senator

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A couple of well known JC members reckon a tune will help. Tech who did the valve spring says it can be improved too. I need to be able to plod along and not cam hop in first gear. It's absolutely painful in traffic and driving to the end of my street each morning, when you're having to fan the clutch.
Like I said before it's goes like a bastard when you nail it and it hits 3k but that's not much use on the street.


Fair enough , I haven't driven and you don't the cam specs. It makes really , really good power on stock heads and intake.

The fact it makes the numbers it does and gets going at 3.5 it may have a 23x/24x cam in and a standard diff.

All I'm saying is without knowing the camshaft work in it , it may be a whole heap of cranky cam and it doesn't match the rest of the gear.
 

losh1971

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Fair enough , I haven't driven and you don't the cam specs. It makes really , really good power on stock heads and intake.

The fact it makes the numbers it does and gets going at 3.5 it may have a 23x/24x cam in and a standard diff.

All I'm saying is without knowing the camshaft work in it , it may be a whole heap of cranky cam and it doesn't match the rest of the gear.
I don't know, I'd have to pay someone to measure it and stuff around. A few hours worth of tuning will hopefully help. The bloke who fixed the spring said he reckon its been tuned for power not farting around like I do. Bloke I bought it off said they tuned it for max power and with the new clutch was told by the tuner he could squeeze some more out of it. I can't get hold of the PO he ignores me when I've tried to make contact. So I have no idea on anything. I know what springs it has or at least I know the set I need that are the same spec and they are not stock, plus they are longer.
 

07GTS

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I need mine retuned. Mine has been tuned to come alive from 3k on and go spastic from 3.5k to 4.5k but not easy enough to drive at 1500 when in Town where I spend a lot of my time.
sounds like it just needs the right tuner to get the bottom end for most of the normal driving sorted out, my guess is not much was done as a camshaft usually gives tuners the ability to not tune under what they think the camshafts power range is, adjusting it properly will help heaps the under 2k range needs to be spot on fueling and spark, corrections and also torque model which most dont know to adjust, all that alone id say it should get to pretty close to normal, some camshafts do have poor airflow down low but that dosnt cause any bucking or lack of drivability, it can take a while to get it all working together but once u do u would be surprised at the change toward normality
 

J_D 2.0

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A couple of well known JC members reckon a tune will help. Tech who did the valve spring says it can be improved too. I need to be able to plod along and not cam hop in first gear. It's absolutely painful in traffic and driving to the end of my street each morning, when you're having to fan the clutch.
Like I said before it's goes like a bastard when you nail it and it hits 3k but that's not much use on the street.
Is it mostly “bunny hopping” from poor part open throttle response? Mine does that which makes me a bit suspect on the credentials of the person who tuned it.

I put a throttle controller on mine and run it on economy mode which has helped quite a bit but it’s still there though.
 

Ginger Beer

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Even a well tuned engine with a big lumpy stick will still show poor low rpm cruising characteristics with tall (stock) gearing in a manual

Shorter gears will help a bit

Big stick issues

How to pick
 

07GTS

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Is it mostly “bunny hopping” from poor part open throttle response? Mine does that which makes me a bit suspect on the credentials of the person who tuned it.

I put a throttle controller on mine and run it on economy mode which has helped quite a bit but it’s still there though.
that issue is related to spark (torque) any camshaft that changes the map reading for idle needs the torque model corrected to suit
 
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