Audio Upgrades for my VX Calais.

[Callum14]

Just one I thought I could trust. they're advertised price is bogus, can get a set (2) for $350 delivered. Why what other brands did you have in mine?

also, this is the setup im going to do

 

[MAG00]

Just one I thought I could trust. they're advertised price is bogus, can get a set (2) for $350 delivered. Why what other brands did you have in mine?

also, this is the setup im going to do

Fair enough. Where have you got that price for the type-r subs from?

As for alternatives, it all depends on your budget, so what is your budget?

For the amp, Option Audio is highly regarded around here as great value gear. Their OAK1200 runs 1200W RMS into 1 ohm, for $339 from WOW.

To suit that amp you will need to purchase two dual voice coil 4 ohm woofers, aka D4, and wire them like so:

Once you give a budget for the set-up, we can offer alternatives. Don't forget you will need to include the price of wiring and installation accessories.

What you need:
Headunit (unless you have one?)
Front speakers (preferably splits/components)
Amplifier for front speakers (unless you want to run them off of the headunit)
Amplifier for subwoofer
Installation accessories (headunit surround, antenna adaptor, electrical tape, soldering iron, harness etc.)
Wiring kit (power wires for amps, fuse holder + fuse, RCAs for headunit to amp, remote wire for amplifier turn on, speaker wire etc.)
Sound deadener (sound deadener and proper installation improve the sound quality extensively) **Not needed, but highly recommended**

Rear speakers are unnecessary as they ruin your sound stage (if you're at a concert, you expect the sound to come from the stage infront of you, not from behind you.) and you don't need them unless you care about your rear passengers that much. You can use the stock speakers for the rears, and can upgrade them at a later stage.

Also, that diagram you posted is exactly the same as StoneX's.

Let us know your budget, so we can help you further.

 

[Callum14]

Budget: $2000
What you need:
Headunit: Using stock Eurovox 10Stacker but I have a JVC HU to put in.
Front speaker: At the moment stock but I will be putting in splits
Amplifier for front speakers: none
Amplifier : for alternatives


all have this has been stated in previous post's. I wont work on speakers till I get more money. I'm not looking for show car like sound, just some depth in my music, some nice low's, thats it. Till I can afford a nice set for my entire car, ie splits in all door's, so on.

As for that 1ohm amp, seem too bad, was having a look at that option before, but I was unsure about how hot the internals would get.

 

[Callum14]

So yeah, $1000-2000 is my budget, thats why i wanted to go with alpine type r's.

 

[Callum14]

Also, is it better to have more power in the amp or the sub? From what I've been told, it's better to have more power in the subs then the amp, so the subs arent over driven, but if you do it that way you can get clipping, from overdriving the amp. and if you have more amp then sub you can overdrive your subs.. is this true?

 

[Fun_Bucket]

and with so many speakers the clarity should be excellent...:spot on:

You mean a rearward soundstage with tonal miss match right? :whistling

 

[sweefu]

Also, is it better to have more power in the amp or the sub? From what I've been told, it's better to have more power in the subs then the amp, so the subs arent over driven, but if you do it that way you can get clipping, from overdriving the amp. and if you have more amp then sub you can overdrive your subs.. is this true?

No this is very incorrect. You are beter to have a more powerful amplifier that is over-capable, so it has less work to do, so it is easier for the amplifier to power the subs.

 

[Crisis63]

Also, is it better to have more power in the amp or the sub? From what I've been told, it's better to have more power in the subs then the amp, so the subs arent over driven, but if you do it that way you can get clipping, from overdriving the amp. and if you have more amp then sub you can overdrive your subs.. is this true?

The subs don’t have any power. Their rating is power handling and it is measured and recorded in different ways. That aside it is preferable to run a higher powered amp into lower powered speakers than to try to drive high power speakers with a low powered amp. Running a lower powered amp into high powered speakers at high levels can cause clipping. That is sending DC current to the voice coil of the speaker which is very destructive. Most music only uses a small amount of the available power. It is only the musical peaks i.e. deep bas or loud synth or horn blasts that call for more power. And these peaks last for only parts of a second. Most good speakers will handle these peaks. That said any equalization i.e. bass boost, loudness etc will have an effect.

It comes down to common sense. Any audible distortion is hurting you speakers and probably you amp.

 

[db_notso]

You mean a rearward soundstage with tonal miss match right? :whistling

well honestly no i try to balance sound pressure to the center console on a sedan back seat for wagon and middle of dash for coupe...

by balancing speaker surface area and power output of the speakers i have found (personally)
the more speakers added EVENLY front and rear sound clearer at all volumes or settings...

when i didnt have passengers i just adjust front to back on the stereos and its just for me which stops rear stage as you guys call it

with subs unbalanced in the boot (none in front) i have found when its set up to the front (for me only) that you only need the basics 2 tweeters 2door speakers 1 sub and one amp(5 speakers) with good h-unit to get good clear sound for just the driver the only thing the system lacks like this is peak volume WITH clarity as it fades away as volume increased... but with passengers this set up just sounds like bass hence add rear speakers(7 speakers) then you you keep going adding high to back with more tweeters(9 speakers) until finally you go for a mid only hz set up with another amp to cut out highs and lows for those extra 2 speakers same size as door speakers(11 speakers) and another amp for the door speakers so as to match the volume control of all speakers so the center point of sound doesnt move as you go through the volume range ( like if one amp has a dif curve to another their volume differs greatly through same input level, even with adjusting gain on amps i have found)

anyways yeah i just like cruising to music... and thats ^^^ how i cruise :hiding:

 

[MAG00]

anyways yeah i just like cruising to music... and thats ^^^ how i cruise :hiding:

Personally I would prefer to use some tuning (time delay, equalizers etc.) and installation techniques (angles of axis, high quality baffle, sound deadening etc. etc.) to fine tune a system, rather than adding a ridiculous amount of speakers which technically wouldn't help anything. By adding more speakers you're probably just mounting them at different angles, filling the void that one well installed pair would achieve.

Just out of curiosity, what gear do you use? Decent speakers will go plenty loud enough without losing clarity.

No offence, but you don't seem to have much correct/relevant information for the OP, so please stop.

As for the OP, I will do up a recommended build for your budget within the next 24hours or so, unless someone like Sweefu beats me to it