G'day I recently replaced my fuel pump and sender unit with one from the wreckers. The fuel guage is now working back to front. Has anyone heard of this happening, is it an easy fix? The reason for the change was the pump blew the fuse. When I pulled it out the pump had a lot of black crap around it. I hooked it up to 12V, it sounded a bit funny for a few seconds then ran as you would expect. Any advice appreciated Regards Dave
wait wait wait... so when your driving, the guage goes up??? thats so cool.... hahaha id say polairty of the guage is out. aZk.
you need a new sender unit and fuel gauge calibration... wagon and sedans work in different ranges to one another and cause problems seen a few of these happen now
wtf, are you sure you havnt forced the plug on the sender unit on 180deg the wrong way? have never heard of this, obviously like said the polarity is the wrong way around some how youl need to swap it around, if its pluged in correctly you'll need to swap the wires in the plug around as, unless youve put the sender unit in wrong, they can be hard to put back in as the pump sits in a sort of swirl pot, if you get it one hole to the left or right your gauge will be out of wack, i would say this is more than likely the case, as ive never changed a VY pump i couldnt say witch way its supposed to go, i would look at some elses and make sure yours is in the right position, for eg on the vn vp, there are two pipes coming out of the sender one attaches to a hose the other is trimed and blocked of, the blocked off pipe needs to be at six o'clock in relation to the other hose, does that make sense? anyway my money is on the sender unit being in wrong.
There is a difference between VY series 1 and 2. They changed they sender unit i believe. You need the right sender for the right series, the same thing happens with swapping gauge clusters between models.
exactly as unregistered has said but the guage can be corrected with a custom instrument cluster calibration
My XA GS Coupe had the gauge that went backwards, empty was on the right and full was on the left, but it was meant to be like that.
Dont know all the info, but up to the vs, the holden gauges went 280-40Ohms empty-full. Then starting at the vt they virtually went backwards with 40-252 ohms empty/full. The difference b/w the vt series 1 and 2 may simply be as above, it should basically work fine back to front, though it read slightly different at one end of the scale, depending which one of the two you have. Shouldnt be a problem that it overdrives the gauge, why not just suck it and see, and perhaps even just swap the F to E signs on the dash if it turns out ok. Having the connections on the sender reversed, wont change the reading on the gauge, the sendor is passive.
Cheapest Option? Might be cheaper to get a second hand cluster that is compatiable with the new sender unit, i.e. if your car is Series 1, then get a Series 2 cluster, or vice versa. Now that you have made this mistake, how about upgrading to a three window cluster at the same time?
