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backyard tuning black carbed 202

VKCOMMO

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hi

i have a black carbed 202 in a vk and was wondering do you have any easy backyard tuning tips for it just untill i get the cash for a new engine for it

thanks
 

Lewie

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Very thirsty VT & VH project under way! YAY!!
I'm looking for the same thing. My blue 202 needs some TLC at the moment but I'd rather give it a go myself first.
 

Tom_1569

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Copy and pasted from a PM regarding fitting a new carby (Varijet II)

If you've got the emissisons side sorted out you should be pretty right, its pretty basic bolt on and bolt off. Take the acclerator cable bracket off, and bolt the old one on, then you dont need to adjust that at all.

The default mixture is good enough to run the car, but its very rich. Once the car is warmed up and choke off turn the idle screw a 1/4 of a turn, and give it a quick rev and let it settle, continue, until it stalls then wind it back in 1/4 of a turn or until it sounds right. Then you can work on the main mixture screw, its just a matter of turning it until its not running so rich, its a matter of doing it by ear and feel. If you get stuck try and find an old-school mechanic who knows how to tune a carby to get it 100%.
 

Lewie

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Copy and pasted from a PM regarding fitting a new carby (Varijet II)

If you've got the emissisons side sorted out you should be pretty right, its pretty basic bolt on and bolt off. Take the acclerator cable bracket off, and bolt the old one on, then you dont need to adjust that at all.

The default mixture is good enough to run the car, but its very rich. Once the car is warmed up and choke off turn the idle screw a 1/4 of a turn, and give it a quick rev and let it settle, continue, until it stalls then wind it back in 1/4 of a turn or until it sounds right. Then you can work on the main mixture screw, its just a matter of turning it until its not running so rich, its a matter of doing it by ear and feel. If you get stuck try and find an old-school mechanic who knows how to tune a carby to get it 100%.

Great info but i think this is assuming the timing is set properly. I know mine is out because when I did set it I didn't know where it was supposed to be at. I'm pretty sure I landed around 7.5 - 8 deg instead of 6.

Also, is the "1/4 of a turn" from the "default mixture"? If it is then I'm screwed there to. I've fiddled with mine and moved it from where it was when I got it back from the carby gurus who rebuilt it.

I guess what I'm looking for is a starting point. (a timing gun would help to) Appreciate the info though. I think I'll invest in a timing gun and get that to where it's supposed to be then investigate this further.

Thanks.
 

Tom_1569

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Great info but i think this is assuming the timing is set properly. I know mine is out because when I did set it I didn't know where it was supposed to be at. I'm pretty sure I landed around 7.5 - 8 deg instead of 6.

Also, is the "1/4 of a turn" from the "default mixture"? If it is then I'm screwed there to. I've fiddled with mine and moved it from where it was when I got it back from the carby gurus who rebuilt it.

I guess what I'm looking for is a starting point. (a timing gun would help to) Appreciate the info though. I think I'll invest in a timing gun and get that to where it's supposed to be then investigate this further.

Thanks.

I just threw pages out on setting timing out lol, Ill go grab them out of the shed bin if there not covered in ****.
Y
Yeah 1/4 from the default (that sues carby set), but if you can fiddle around to get it to run, then the same principle applies. Sorry Im not sure what the default settings would be and I just got rid of all my VK stuff with the info haha.
 

Immortality

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from memory the base setting for theidle screw on the verajet carby fitted to the 3.3's is to screw it in untill it bottoms out and then unscrew it 3 complete turns.

could be wrong though, it's only been about a decade since i adjusted one:p and it's not listed in the gregories manual either. i think a carby rebuild kit has the info in it. maybe go to your local parts store and ask to see the kit and then see if they will let you read the instructions that come with the kit

is the VK fitted with EST. if it is, then i think from memory all you need to do is line up the mark on the dizzy with the rotor and make sure the No 1 cyl is TDC on thecompression stroke. (use the timing marks on the ballancer to check)
 

NZVK308

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from memory the base setting for theidle screw on the verajet carby fitted to the 3.3's is to screw it in untill it bottoms out and then unscrew it 3 complete turns.

could be wrong though, it's only been about a decade since i adjusted one:p and it's not listed in the gregories manual either. i think a carby rebuild kit has the info in it. maybe go to your local parts store and ask to see the kit and then see if they will let you read the instructions that come with the kit

is the VK fitted with EST. if it is, then i think from memory all you need to do is line up the mark on the dizzy with the rotor and make sure the No 1 cyl is TDC on thecompression stroke. (use the timing marks on the ballancer to check)



Sounds about right.. 2 1/2-- 3 turns out on the idle screw,keeping in mind idle mixure only...Mkae sure you have a Vaijett jetted for the 6 and not a 4cly carby...(they are interchangable) the 4cyl ones are right royal pain in the rectal socket...

Injected black 6,s ran 12dg static timing standard points 6dg... I retuned mine to 10-12dg static.. indoing so i found eather richen idle mixure or run colder heat range spark plugs to elimenate pinging..

Probaly cheapest way to get some grunt out of it,, fit some good ignition leads,plugs new points/condesoner ( clean dizzy cap if electronic ) headers/exhaust change timing gears to steel set..with multi pull key ways. crank gear has timing segments stamped on it... ( A cost effective way to get my race car to boogy! lol )
 

VKCOMMO

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Copy and pasted from a PM regarding fitting a new carby (Varijet II)

If you've got the emissisons side sorted out you should be pretty right, its pretty basic bolt on and bolt off. Take the acclerator cable bracket off, and bolt the old one on, then you dont need to adjust that at all.

The default mixture is good enough to run the car, but its very rich. Once the car is warmed up and choke off turn the idle screw a 1/4 of a turn, and give it a quick rev and let it settle, continue, until it stalls then wind it back in 1/4 of a turn or until it sounds right. Then you can work on the main mixture screw, its just a matter of turning it until its not running so rich, its a matter of doing it by ear and feel. If you get stuck try and find an old-school mechanic who knows how to tune a carby to get it 100%.

i did that the other day and there was a small of burning rubber coming from the front bottom and a bit of rubber smoke..

anyone...
 

Tsunamix

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Timing by ear -

With the engine running at idle, unclamp the dizzy (usually one bolt but can be 2 on some engines) and rotate it very slowly in one direction until the revs start to fall away. Then rotate it back the other direction - the revs will pick up and then fall away again. Where the revs are at the peak is a good start point. Usually its a little over advanced, but its a fair start point.

Clamp down the dizzy and go for a drive. Find a long hill. Change into one gear too high (second gear hill - use 3rd etc) and floor it up the hill. If a pinging / clattering noise comes from the engine its over advanced. Turn the dizzy in the retard direction and try again. When it doesn't ping under load, you are at the most advanced timing setting you can use.

Tune tips - brown / black exhaust dust in the tailpipe often indicates richness of tune. Grey is perfect. Blue is burning oil. Rich is safe, if its grey and you over advance, you could do damage.

If using a multi card setup, make sure you balance airflow thru each carb using a vacflow gauge at idle and at constant 2000 rpm. This will probably need adjustments to butterflys or risers in SU style carbs.

For christ's sake make sure your using the same jets in all carbs :p
 
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