Basic V8 engine mods - help (experience) appreciated

[tim_pato]

So the over the rad cai is no gain what soever over the little straight bit that came out standard?

 

[someguy360]

So the over the rad cai is no gain what soever over the little straight bit that came out standard?

maybe 1kw if your lucky, I notice absolutely no difference between mine on and off other than a waste of space haha

 

[tim_pato]

Aha, maybe 1kw? 1kw is a gain none the less and it didn't cost me anything and it looks better then the standard pipe.

 

[Mopar]

OK, I'm a silly duffer - it's a VS "S Pac" ute (Series III) - don't know if that makes any difference. :embarrass

Thanks for the replies so far.

someguy - good to meet a fellow Mopar man! The MACE unit looks good. My mate really wants to keep his ute as original looking as possible - with just a few mods below the skin - so if there's another over-the-radiator snorkel (SS?) that looks almost the same but improves breathing, that would be ideal. Otherwise, I guess we could install a MACE-type CAI and keep the original parts for car show shows (it's a really lovely survivor example).

Any preference for coils, leads and plugs? I'm thinking the standard Bougicord leads with Bosch plugs and coil (part #?) should suffice.

VDO injectors - check

Do you think a 2.5" single system would be better than a 3" single system for a basically stock 5ltr? We're looking at #PH5000D headers. I can PM Not_an_abba_fan about the system after I talk to my mate. I'm thinking 2.5" might be the go . . .

The engine is in good nick. I'll test the compression soon, but there's no tappet noise or smoke, and it idles nicely and goes well. All we want to do at this stage is upgrade the ignition and breathing, tune it, and then look at pulling the heads a bit further down the track (at 200,000km or thereabouts). Obviously if/when we pull the heads we'll looking at skimming for a bit more compression, fitting slightly bigger valves, and adding a baby cam with matching springs before getting it tuned again. (Will LS springs fit a 304? What's the installed height?)


wraith - thanks for the link. There's some good stuff there, but as explained, we're just looking at doing the basics for now, as it's still a work ute and my mate doesn't want to get too carried away at this stage. I'm just looking to learn a bit more about them and help him do some basic spanner work so he can also learn something along the way.

With 8.5 comp, it doesn't look like it's worthwhile tuning it for anything more than E10 or 95 octane at this point, so that answers that. E10 will be cheaper in the long run and it's a decent fuel with a bit of ethanol it it to keep the injectors and internals clean. I run E10 in my 220kw XR8 and P100 in my Charger, and like it better than straight dino juice.

 

[Mopar]

Any preference for O2 sensors?

Er, can't see my last post . . . I wrote a big, long "Thank you" but don't know where it went . . . :hmmm:

EDIT: Found and re-posted below.

 

[Mopar]

OK, I'm a silly duffer - it's a VS "S Pac" ute (Series III) - don't know if that makes any difference. :embarrass

Thanks for the replies so far.

someguy - good to meet a fellow Mopar man! The MACE unit looks good. My mate really wants to keep his ute as original looking as possible - with just a few mods below the skin - so if there's another over-the-radiator snorkel (SS?) that looks almost the same but improves breathing, that would be ideal. Otherwise, I guess we could install a MACE-type CAI and keep the original parts for car show shows (it's a really lovely survivor example).

Any preference for coils, leads and plugs? I'm thinking the standard Bougicord leads with Bosch plugs and coil (part #?) should suffice.

VDO injectors - check

Do you think a 2.5" single system would be better than a 3" single system for a basically stock 5ltr? We're looking at #PH5000D headers. I can PM Not_an_abba_fan about the system after I talk to my mate. I'm thinking 2.5" might be the go . . .

The engine is in good nick. I'll test the compression soon, but there's no tappet noise or smoke, and it idles nicely and goes well. All we want to do at this stage is upgrade the ignition and breathing, tune it, and then look at pulling the heads a bit further down the track (at 200,000km or thereabouts). Obviously if/when we pull the heads we'll looking at skimming for a bit more compression, fitting slightly bigger valves, and adding a baby cam with matching springs before getting it tuned again. (Will LS springs fit a 304? What's the installed height?)


wraith - thanks for the link. There's some good stuff there, but as explained, we're just looking at doing the basics for now, as it's still a work ute and my mate doesn't want to get too carried away at this stage. I'm just looking to learn a bit more about them and help him do some basic spanner work so he can also learn something along the way.

With 8.5 comp, it doesn't look like it's worthwhile tuning it for anything more than E10 or 95 octane at this point, so that answers that. E10 will be cheaper in the long run and it's a decent fuel with a bit of ethanol it it to keep the injectors and internals clean. I run E10 in my 220kw XR8 and P100 in my Charger, and like it better than straight dino juice.

 

[someguy360]

Being a series III it may have a roller cam motor then instead of flat tappet.

Does it have a MAF (mass aif flow sensor) connected to the throttle body piping?

Or does it have a MAP Sensor on the firewall near the build plate?

if it has a MAF, its the newer roller motor.


There was an SS inductions otr for the 304 many moons ago, if you can find one second hand they are ok but not great, and very expensive....may as well just keep the stock intake with a good filter if you want it stock.

I prefer a 2.5" to a 3", the main reason is a single 3" is going to be pretty damn loud, and there is always the chance of exhaust drone then.....2.5" is the sweet spot I reckon, but if your going with a bigger cam etc 3" would be better performance wise.


Most tuners will tune a 304 for 98, but I am sure you could change that upon request. (I have never seen a 304 tuned on anything other than 98 so I can't really give an opinion here)

As for leads, it depends how much you want to spend....I do like ICE leads, but they aren't cheap. (just running eagle 8mm's at the moment with no issues)
As for plugs, the standard $4 NGK-R plugs will do the job just fine (I swear by NGK, but bosch would be fine too, just don't use champion, for some reason the 304's just don't seem to play nicely with them).

On these motors the standard Bosch coil and dizzy are good for up to 450-500hp so no point changing, I would just replace the cap and rotor for good measure.

 

[Mopar]

MAF sensor - so it's a roller motor? Even better! (No wonder it's quiet.) Still the same 8.5:1 compression, or slightly higher? My XR8 runs 9.4:1 with iron heads and hydraulic roller cam, and E10 works a treat. (The Charger is 11.4:1 with alloy heads - but that's another story!)

Cap and rotor as originally mentioned.

Bosch coil.

I, too, like NGK plugs - .035" gaps sound right?

What do you think of a 3" single system and muffler stepped down to 2.5" over the diff? That's what I've done with the Charger (twin 3" into 2.5") to quieten it down - but still have the advantage of removing the tail pipes and freeing up the exhaust for down the drags.

 

[someguy360]

MAF sensor - so it's a roller motor? Even better! (No wonder it's quiet.) Still the same 8.5:1 compression, or slightly higher? My XR8 runs 9.4:1 with iron heads and hydraulic roller cam, and E10 works a treat. (The Charger is 11.4:1 with alloy heads - but that's another story!)

Cap and rotor as originally mentioned.

Bosch coil.

I, too, like NGK plugs - .035" gaps sound right?

What do you think of a 3" single system and muffler stepped down to 2.5" over the diff? That's what I've done with the Charger (twin 3" into 2.5") to quieten it down - but still have the advantage of removing the tail pipes and freeing up the exhaust for down the drags.

I think the compression is the same (but not 100% sure), the 304 has a very lazy low compression ratio.....thats why most up it when doing a cam.

The spark gap should be 1.0mm I think (double check on the spark/timing sticker in the engine bay though as it varies between VN-VS etc)...but the NGK's will come pre-gapped to what you need.


Never seen that exhaust trick done on a holden but you never know, have a chat to not an abba fan about the mods planned and he will let you know what you need.

 

[Vq 304 mods]

Being a series III it may have a roller cam motor then instead of flat tappet.

Does it have a MAF (mass aif flow sensor) connected to the throttle body piping?

Or does it have a MAP Sensor on the firewall near the build plate?

if it has a MAF, its the newer roller motor.


There was an SS inductions otr for the 304 many moons ago, if you can find one second hand they are ok but not great, and very expensive....may as well just keep the stock intake with a good filter if you want it stock.

I prefer a 2.5" to a 3", the main reason is a single 3" is going to be pretty damn loud, and there is always the chance of exhaust drone then.....2.5" is the sweet spot I reckon, but if your going with a bigger cam etc 3" would be better performance wise.


Most tuners will tune a 304 for 98, but I am sure you could change that upon request. (I have never seen a 304 tuned on anything other than 98 so I can't really give an opinion here)

As for leads, it depends how much you want to spend....I do like ICE leads, but they aren't cheap. (just running eagle 8mm's at the moment with no issues)
As for plugs, the standard $4 NGK-R plugs will do the job just fine (I swear by NGK, but bosch would be fine too, just don't use champion, for some reason the 304's just don't seem to play nicely with them).

On these motors the standard Bosch coil and dizzy are good for up to 450-500hp so no point changing, I would just replace the cap and rotor for good measure.

Champion iridium are the best plug by fair margin run em in my 304 but not a 304 now but top plug