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BCM problem?

The Doctor 1280

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Ok guys need a bit of info.

So i've been having a bit of a problem with my VT HSV Senator 5.0l Auto,.

I've noticed a couple of things.

1) i can't program any more keys for it. As in it won't start the car, but it will unlock the doors and the boot with the buttons.

2) I've been having a bit of a problem with the Cruise control. Sometimes i can get it to come on by pressing the cruise button and sometimes it won't. the other day i had the cruise on and all was going well and then bang, it turned straight off.

I'm wondering if i have a BCM issue, any thoughts?
 

lout

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i feel you have 2 seperate problems
re the keys, i take it your existing key/s start the car, the bcm can only have 5 keys programmed to it, unless you program "all new" (term from memory)
cruise could be globes, brake switches, cruise stalk or wiring
 

The Doctor 1280

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Yes my existing key starts the car. the funny thing is that if i start the car with the old key, thurn it off and then start the car with the new key it starts. however, if i leave the car for 10 minutes and try and start the care with the new key it refuses to turn over and it makes beeping noises that signals the immobiliser.

As for the cruise control, you know when you press the cruise button on the stalk, sometimes the green cruise light won't come up on the dash and sometimes it will. when i was driving and it cut out the green cruise and active lights cut out completly and i head a loud "tick" noise come from the dash around the back of the stereo area.
 

accentstencil

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Check you brake light globes, a broken filament can cause intermittent issues.
 

The Doctor 1280

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brake lights are fine, checked to make sure they were working the other day. If it was the brake light globe or brake switch it would just disconnect the cruise control not turn the whole system off, as in you'd still the the cruise light on the dash and the active light would go out. When the cruise control cuts out on me both the active light and the Cruise light go off, as if you've pressed the switch.
 

lout

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are your fobs genuine or ebay chinese rubbish
sounds like the transponder to the little metal nipple is not making contact
 

The Doctor 1280

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i've had 3 different one programmed. 1 from ebay. 1 from Mr Minit and 1 genuine Holden, all 3 fail to start the car but they open doors, if the metal nipple wasn't connecting it wouldn't progam the key as that's its way of programming
 

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maybe your keyreader is faulty
if you unlock with good remote wait 10 minutes and then try to start, does good key start car
how are you getting these remotes programmed, mr minit clones existing remote
are you copying old remote or programming to security code
or using tech 2
 

The Doctor 1280

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Ok so if i unlock with good key and wait it say 10-20 mins and try to start with new key it won't turn over and the car starts beeping.

But the funny thing is, if i start the car with the old key, turn it off, then straight away put the new key in and crank it she will start and drive no worries, turn it off and then turn it over straight away it will fire, Leave it for say 10 mins and try to use new key it won't crank and starts beeping at me

ok for programing the key i tell a lie i've done 5 keys.

First key i programmed with my Carman scantool which i have used for 5 other guys who own VT through VZ HSVs and Commodore with no issues with their keys.

Second Key i got a key programmer tool you plug into OBDII port, Again used that to program someone else's key and works for them

Third key i went to Mr Minit to have them do it, again same issue

4th and 5th Key I went to Holden and got them to do it, both keys failed.

If they key reader was buggered then the old key wouldn't be starting it either.

I think the BCM is having a few issues. cause now i also have no Air Con. aswell. Had to put in new compressor as the old one was leaking, air con worked for a bit then died. Its full on gas, just nothing coming out the vents.
 

krusing

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Firstly, I would get the Car Scanned independently,
because the Dealer will not tell the owner of any historical issues/codes,
being not all codes activate the MIL/Engine Light,
Because if the car won’t start correctly, it will create a historic error code in the ECU/BMC that will not display on the dash,
However, it can be read with a professional scan tool, Tech2, or in my case, an Autel unit.
I did read somewhere, that HSV Vehicles require a Special Security Code to access the ECU and BMC.
So cloning one of your Faulty Keys with a 5-minute locksmith, or with one of those MAP Programmers you can purchase,
could be one of the issues, so, you have replicated the original issue.
Also, are they genuine Key Heads?, not one of the chinese knock off's

Secondly, your Air Conditioning issue could be a vacuum issue, does it have Climate Control ?
saying its full of gas, maybe so, but it may have partially leaked out again, hence it could be one of the reasons it’s not working,
because the Air Con system has high and low pressure switches.
Where you need a set of gauges on it, to check the pressures.
Being you had the compressor replaced, any good fridge mechanic will install fluorescent die/oil in the system to show/indicate if there is a leak,
see if you can get hold of a UV torch and see if there is any fluorescent oil/die around the Air Conditioning plumbing, [at night]
If so, take it back to refridge mechanic.
 
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