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Best Exhaust Setup for a WN Caprice with OEM Parts?

Skylarking

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This is what it’s doing. Hard to see but the movement isn’t smooth like the other side.
When opening you may notice it gets all the way to the end of travel and hesitates.
And when closing it does the same. Hard too see but it’s definitely not operating the same as the other muffler.
It’s either the flap shaft binding (maybe try degreaser, carbi cleaner or wd40?) or something within the motor itself. It may be the internal plastic gears are stuffed...

For the motor internals, see @stooges pics in the first post of this thread, click the spoiler cut the controller open method ;)
 

VFSV6FORME

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Yeah possibly, that’s a good point.
if you want to do more work take the good actuator off and play with both valve/butterfly to see if one is tighter than the other.
 

VFSV6FORME

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Before I put my bi modals in I took both actuators off, cleaned then best as possible and after this with the electronics gone I was able to exercise the flaps and sprayed carby cleaner in them, washed them and did it again and painted the mufflers (rough line) like the originals were . I had WD 40 but did not use it, Its easy to do this is the mufflers are on the ground and you can tip them over or upside down.
 
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vxbris

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It’s either the flap shaft binding (maybe try degreaser, carbi cleaner or wd40?) or something within the motor itself. It may be the internal plastic gears are stuffed...

For the motor internals, see @stooges pics in the first post of this thread, click the spoiler cut the controller open method ;)
It’s possibly the motor. Seeing as the other side was stuffed when I got them. Good chance this one is too. Will try give the flap a spray and see how that goes too.
..Found this post which is interesting View attachment 222207View attachment 222207
It’s either the flap shaft binding (maybe try degreaser, carbi cleaner or wd40?) or something within the motor itself. It may be the internal plastic gears are stuffed...

For the motor internals, see @stooges pics in the first post of this thread, click the spoiler cut the controller open method ;)
t’s possibly the motor. Seeing as the other side was stuffed when I got them. Good chance this one is too. Will try give the flap a spray and see how that goes too.
..Found this post which is interesting
 

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VFSV6FORME

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Before I put my bi modals in I took both actuators off, cleaned then best as possible and after this with the electronics gone I was able to exercise the flaps and sprayed carby cleaner in them, washed them and did it again and painted the mufflers (rough line) like the originals were . I had WD 40 but did not use it, Its easy to do this is the mufflers are on the ground and you can tip them over or upside down.
I re typed because I forgot to say I repainted the Mufflers like the originals
 

vxbris

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Ok, first step, I switch the wiring over and the troublesome Bi modal was still playing up. Removed both the motors to see them operate while not connected to the mufflers. Good side motor operates over and back, fast and with solid sharp movements, so no issue.
Faulty one operates slower and buzzes the whole time. And doesn’t travel the full distance. I can hear and feel it trying to move internally. Tried each motor on both wiring and same results. Motor is stuffed, as I expected. And the reason why it won’t return to an opened state when power removed. Motor internals must be flogged.
Also both valve springs on each side feel the same.
Put the good motor on the “bad side” and works perfect. Returns to normal state when car off. Ordered new motor just then‍.
On a good note, I got new tips attached yesterday. 3.5”, looks way better!
 

Skylarking

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... Ordered new motor just then‍.
Great you’ve identified the faulty part :cool:
Where did you order the new motor from and how much?

Now that you‘ve get a new one coming, rip the cover off the old one and see what yne cause of the problem was (likely water ingress) :p
 

vxbris

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Great you’ve identified the faulty part :cool:
Where did you order the new motor from and how much?

Now that you‘ve get a new one coming, rip the cover off the old one and see what yne cause of the problem was (likely water ingress) :p
Yeah it was super obvious when removed from the muffler. Man it struggled to move! Ordered from PlanetParts eBay store. Was $78.
…Wondering if I should just pull the fuse on the kit now instead of it operating with only one motor in the circuit?
 

vxbris

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Righto, I’m back with another problem urghh. Long post but if you’ve had similar issues I’d appreciate some feedback.
So this has been happening for a few months now and it’s doing my head in.
If I have my Bi modal valve set to close on start up of the car they will close as should, but after approx 2 mins they will open by themselves without me pressing the remote. I’ll then close them again using remote, and they’ll randomly open up a few mins later. - I emailed Ultimate Wiring Conversion and he suggested changing the switch on the box to the other position. (not ideal as I’d prefer a quit start). So I did, so now when car starts the valves will open. This works but the same issue is happening, after a few mins the valves will change position. Yesterday I had some free time to try problem solve so firstly I removed remote from car and went for a drive, valves changed on their on after a few mins. Changed the fuse tap and put it directly into a constant 12v spot, same thing happens. Moved the UWC box outside battery compartment incase
of possible interference, still no good.
Can anyone think of any other things I could try? Was thinking of disconnecting one muffler at a time to see what that does.
Thought I’d see if you guys have experienced this before I email the supplier again. Cheers
 

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Righto, I’m back with another problem urghh. Long post but if you’ve had similar issues I’d appreciate some feedback.
So this has been happening for a few months now and it’s doing my head in.
If I have my Bi modal valve set to close on start up of the car they will close as should, but after approx 2 mins they will open by themselves without me pressing the remote. I’ll then close them again using remote, and they’ll randomly open up a few mins later. - I emailed Ultimate Wiring Conversion and he suggested changing the switch on the box to the other position. (not ideal as I’d prefer a quit start). So I did, so now when car starts the valves will open. This works but the same issue is happening, after a few mins the valves will change position. Yesterday I had some free time to try problem solve so firstly I removed remote from car and went for a drive, valves changed on their on after a few mins. Changed the fuse tap and put it directly into a constant 12v spot, same thing happens. Moved the UWC box outside battery compartment incase
of possible interference, still no good.
Can anyone think of any other things I could try? Was thinking of disconnecting one muffler at a time to see what that does.
Thought I’d see if you guys have experienced this before I email the supplier again. Cheers
My one is still good but I rarely Drive the car, The Valves are always open when the car is resting but when I start the the car the valves always close and stay closed until I open them.
Question: does both valve OPEN? If not,, say one is opening could be a bad connection on the actuator or defective actuator.
If not the above you have done EXACTLY what I would have done so I say the Ultimate Wiring Conversion control box is defective. Mine have opened by themselves TWICE ONLY because of High Voltage line above the set of traffic lights. When I was stopped at the lights I had above me a 415V 11,000 and 33KV at the lights (again above me) at Morayfield Shops intersection (next to the primary school) where the red light camera is. Yes twice when I was in pole position on the lights and sitting there the bi modals opened by themselves.
(PS I think you are a local)
 
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