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Best way to learn how to repair rust and respray

Discussion in 'VB - VK Holden Commodore (1978 - 1985)' started by VKev, Jun 9, 2018.

  1. VKev

    VKev Member

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    Hi All,

    My VK has a bit of rust that needs seeing to. I don't have the budget to pay for someone else to repair and haven't tackled this sort of repair yet. Pretty much everything I do on the VK is a learning experience(which is part of the reason I bought the car). I was wondering if anyone could give recommendations on the best way to learn, eg Tafe course or is there any decent online guides that would be decent. I've attached some pics with what I'm looking at repairing. Bonnet, Drivers Door, around the front and rear windscreens, the water drainage area below the windscreen and in the boot.

    Cheers
    Evan
     

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  2. commy vk

    commy vk Active Member

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    There is good tutorials on Youtube that can help U out
    Damn rust is a killer of cars.
    Just do a little bit and see how U went.
    If OK the go on to another small bit.
    And good on you for wanting to have a go.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2018
  3. gossie

    gossie Well-Known Member

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    One thing at a time.
    Cut rust out. Weld in new metal is best......Or kill rust, undercoat and paint finish colour.
    I must say though, with all due respect......That car is VERY rusty.
     
  4. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    yeah I agree you might be better off keeping it as a donor and get another VK with a better body. A decent VK would be cheaper than what it will cost to repair and respray. What it looks like to me is it needs a complete gutting. Engine needs to come out. Wiring can be left in place. Some of the rust needs sandblasting but the sand gets into everything hence the need to strip the car back as much as you can. 200 bucks buys you a sandblaster but you need a 13cfm FAD compressor to run tbe blaster properly.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2018
  5. EYY

    EYY Well-Known Member

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    Definitely repairable, but not something you’ll like learning on. YouTube NZStato for tips and insight.
     
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  6. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    TAFE does prevoc in paint and panel. Only thing is that not many colleges offer it. Each state will have at least one college that offer it but it may mean some travel to find the TAFE that offers it. I can say from experience learning to do body repairs is pretty hard. I'm an amateur but am quite anel so ends up taking me 3 or 4 goes to get the repair to where i am happy. What i find is you can bog something, sand it all smooth, prime it and it is not until you top coat it that you see your flaws in the job. It's actually quite hard to get a dead straight panel. And its once the panel is polished you can tell fairly easy the job is amature.
     
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  7. EYY

    EYY Well-Known Member

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    If I were to do a whole car again I'd have it dustless blasted, do all bodywork at home, then hire a booth for paint. Worth it for the better lighting/ventilation/controlled environment etc.
     
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  8. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    yepp and no insects..... lol
     
  9. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    So I am an amateur at the resto and paint work. Over the years I have dabbled and I helped a panel beater when we repaired and repainted my old LX. So in my dabbles I have really only learnt enough to get me in trouble and probably not enough to get me out.... VKev, below is a quote from my build thread; my latest drama in a job I started 2-3 weeks ago...... Something that is relatively simple that can end up a major catastrophe because I made mistakes.... Painting and panel beating is easy to mess up and it can cost 2-3 times fixing the problem...

     
  10. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    This roof looked **** hot until i wet rubbed it and its gone down hill from there.... 20180612_160505.jpg
     
  11. VKev

    VKev Member

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    Thanks so much guys!! My current plan is to talk to a body shop about the painting and see if I can do the body/prep work first. I think most of the rust is surface with the exception on around the rear window, will need to look into how to tackle that one. I had the engine out last year and sanded back all the surface rust then and painted the bay but not the front window drainage area which needs attention. I’ll pick up a few tools over the next couple of weeks, fresnel, compressor and sandblaster attachment and see how I go. I have an old rusty metal chest to practice on before movzing onto the out of sight places like the boot. Will check out Tafe too
     
  12. Lacksballs

    Lacksballs Active Member

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    Give it a go, you will learn more from your mistakes than from any other form of teachings!!!!
     
  13. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    I noticed SCA have these little pot sandblaster guns. They only take about 1kg or less of abrasive but i reckon they would work on a smaller compressor. Sandblaster like mine needs 13cfm FAD, which are $1000 compressors if you buy a cheap one.
     

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