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Black EST 202 pinging so is it a CAS vac leak or the EGR

Discussion in 'VB - VK Holden Commodore (1978 - 1985)' started by 1985VK, Dec 12, 2018.

  1. rambunctious

    rambunctious Well-Known Member

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    Bring the engine up to highway revs around 3000 and set the drips at approx one drip per 2-3 seconds,
    then take it for a highway run for maybe 60 -120 k's but check the bottle during the trip as it will need refilling.
    2-3 bottles at about 600 mls per bottle
    You should see a difference after that.
     
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  2. 1985VK

    1985VK Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for that. I also had a read of an article "originally intended for publication in the New Zealand "Sports Car Club" magazine" http://www.dave-cushman.net/misc/mannject.html

    I ordered a micro gate valve but in the meantime I am using a fine needle as a fixed jet.
     
  3. 1985VK

    1985VK Well-Known Member

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    Water injection makes a difference. Less rattle and more poke.
     
  4. the_boozer

    the_boozer no more VK

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    What sort of racing you doing? I once set up water injection on a speedway car holden 6 it came on around 3/4 throttle. How often does a road car see full throttle wouldn't think it would be needed? Did you fit the he1 distributor?
     
  5. 1985VK

    1985VK Well-Known Member

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    I am not doing any racing. A mate suggested water injection a while ago to cool the combustion and get rid of the detonation. In hindsight i would have liked to try the water injection with the EST, but with HEI i can adjust the timing too! Thank you very much for your help and experience moving to HEI.

    I got a HEI dissy and we fitted it together. He put the timing light on the balancer before we swapped the dissy out. IIRC he said the EST had a lot of advance going on. Someone else said he was able to run his VK on 91RON with a HEI and i was hoping to do the same but it still rattled, so i gave the water injection more thought.

    I set up something very simple (line suction under port vacuum) but running on 95RON. I got a trace of milkshake under the rocker cap initially and then reduced the drip feed. It seems to have more poke and the heads are getting a bit of a free decarbon.
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2019
  6. 1985VK

    1985VK Well-Known Member

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    The literature i have seen recommends water to the vac port. However there is also a port on the base of the varajet (on the EGR valve side) that a line from the air pump goes into. I do not know if that port is worth trying?

    I am using a 600ml water bottle (makes it easy to check consumption) and it is definitely using water just driving around town.
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2019
  7. Lex

    Lex Well-Known Member

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    How much water are you using around town, compared with fuel?
     
  8. 1985VK

    1985VK Well-Known Member

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    I haven't worked that out yet. Its too early to tell. I am at the stage of making adjustments to improve engine performance.
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2019
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  9. 1985VK

    1985VK Well-Known Member

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    For example, after a 15km trip in town the revs had crept up and the engine was idling too fast. I had to shift the timing to get the idle down. The head might be a bit carboned up so i expect it may take the fuel system cleaner and water some time to clean it up. I am not in a hurry.
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2019
  10. vc commodore

    vc commodore Well-Known Member

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    Old school trick to de-carbon the motor was whilst the engine was idling, poor a cap full of oil down the carb and with a spray bottle, spray water down the carb throat.....Yes, it'll blow blue smoke for a bit, but it will clear.....Once it has cleared, shut down the motor and clean the plugs in petrol....
     
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  11. 1985VK

    1985VK Well-Known Member

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    I like old school. There is the ATF into the brake booster line method too. I am using a bit of "oil" ( aka kerosene shhhhhhhh) in the fuel and water into the carb together for more sustained and continuous action over time.
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2019

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