Bleeding the cooling system VT V6

[dazza33]

Still got air in the system after replacing a few items on the 98 V6 VT. Have used the bottle in the radiator inlet to create the head and let the coolant run continuously from the bleeder for a while, it ran out constantly so i closed her all up. But still got air in there, the heater core......No cracked head or anything just not bleeding it correctly.

Can someone point out exactly how to bleed it? Or point me to a thread with good instructions? How long should I let it run from the bleeder screw, seconds, minutes?

And what about the heater, do i need to start the car to turn it on first then switch it back off or does it work with the car off?

Should I bleed with the radiator cap on or off?

Cheers, Daz.

 

[Big-Al]

The heater tap is operated by vacuum from the engine so you should bleed with the motor running and the heater on full.

 

[Tree cutter]

You need to start your engine to turn the heaters on to hot because the heater controls are vacuum operated. Fill your radiator up then start your engine and keep topping up radiator until it is full. Put your radiator cap back on and then leave engine running until a bit of pressure builds up in the radiator, then open your bleed nipple until all the air drains out, then close it.

 

[Brett_jjj]

It also helps if you have the front of the vehicle facing uphill whilst filling the radiator. This causes any air trapped in the engine go to the front of the engine where it can be bled out..

 

[ian]

you can also coax air out of the system by squeezing the top radiator hose while filling radiator to the top with engine running
also you can try filling the overflow bottle right up , then place your hand over the filler neck , squeeze hose and you should hear the bubbles
in the over flow bottle, release pressure on the hose, while hand is still on the filler neck, and it will draw coolant back from the bottle
another tip do this with a cold engine ,
cheers
ian

 

[Nut Kracker]

Try this from Mr. Gregory.

 

[samuels]

Been awhile since I've been here. Okay I see the air bleed point on the thermostat housing at the front of the VT - VX pictures on here but what if you have 3 bleed points on a VX and the thermostat one is at the back of the motor and is a real pain to get any kind of tool in to loosen due to the supercharger and a vacuum unit, any ideas and what is the correct sequence or should I be ok just cracking one bleed point by using the 2L Coke bottle trick ?
The car is the VX HSV XU6 L67 2001 Series II

 

[VT&VX]

the air bleed point on the thermostat housing

The standard engine only needs that. The thermostat gasket has a little air bleed hole that lines up with hole on the casting. Check the hole is clear.

 

[samuels]

The standard engine only needs that. The thermostat gasket has a little air bleed hole that lines up with hole on the casting. Check the hole is clear.

Now why did I kind of guess someone would say that , it's a real pain to get to as thermostat is at back of motor tucked in below the supercharger with a vacuum unit hard up in front of thermostat housing. I can't get away with just cracking the one on the water pump housing below the blower snout or the one on the water line from top radiator hose to thermostat housing ?
I have 3 bleeding points. 1) on thermostat housing, as explained a real ar$# to get at. 2) Water pump housing, below blower snout, easy to get to. 3) top radiator hose clamps to a steel pipe that leads back to thermostat housing, this is the easiest one to get to.

 

[losh1971]

If you have it pretty well bled out, you can normally get away with it just bleeding itself over the period of about 3 or 4 runs and complete cool downs.