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304 block releiving for 355 crank??

dastig

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Ok so it has probably been asked before but I can't find it


Do I need to relieve the block for a 355 stroker crank in a 304 block, or is that brand specific.


Cheers All:thumbsup:
 

Reaper

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I assume you mean removing material for clearance of the crank counter weights?? In which case yes (unless your block is VR onwards). You need to grind a small amount from the base of the piston bores. If you strike water then take off a little less.

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dastig

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yes, I am talking about removing a bit of steel to make way for the counter weights

I want someone who has built one to let me know as I have got different answers from everbody and some sites say that they are original equipment replacement, so I assume that means no block modification, however a follow up question would be:

If I have to grind a bit away, can I do this from underneath subframe etc. removed??

Basically what has happened is I did my big ends and mains recently and the crank didn't look too flash and when all the bearings were back in I still have a very light knock, so it's time for a new crank, as I'm not rich enough for a full rebuild. And I figured if it is easy I may as well claim a bit of extra torque for my troubles.
 

delcowizzid

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you will need to remove the engine from the car to do the grinding or fit the crank LOL
 

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yes, I am talking about removing a bit of steel to make way for the counter weights

I want someone who has built one to let me know as I have got different answers from everbody and some sites say that they are original equipment replacement, so I assume that means no block modification, however a follow up question would be:

If I have to grind a bit away, can I do this from underneath subframe etc. removed??

Basically what has happened is I did my big ends and mains recently and the crank didn't look too flash and when all the bearings were back in I still have a very light knock, so it's time for a new crank, as I'm not rich enough for a full rebuild. And I figured if it is easy I may as well claim a bit of extra torque for my troubles.
Well the fool proof way to do it is get your stroker crank and do a (careful) trial fit to see where you need to grind. A stock crank will give you a starting point - where the counter weights are nearest to the block.

AFAIK you will need to grind the block to some extent on pre VR blocks to fit a 355. Do you mean with the engine in the car??? I probably wouldn't be recommending that one. Anything is possible but i'm not sure what will be stopping the engine landing on your head when you remove the K-frame and sump. You will need to remove the sump - no choice on that one.

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dastig

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delcowizzid: you can remove the crank from a VT SS with the engine in the car, did it recently , remove the gearbox, and drop the subframe, did it on a hoist at work, I'm a mechanic. SO lad you can laugh at your own lack of knowledge now :thumbsup:

Reaper: Thanks mate been very helpful. I think I'll call some engine rebuilders, the lad my workshop uses didn't know.
 

delcowizzid

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its just so much easier pulling the engine than box and subframe.plus its a lot easier to clean all the old bearing filings out the oil galleries etc so the new bearing don get killed on initial startup.
 

Dirbatua

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yea for a normal person u cant remove the crank without removing the engine as we cant get access to a hoist to do that kinda work.
 

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ummm, doesnt the bores need to be taken out to 30 thou to be a 355? and the pistons need to be zero decked? how do you plan on doing that in the car?
Depends entirely on the crank you are planning to use. For the 3 hours spent pulling the motor out of the car, many times that will be saved in rooting around though.

Reaper
 
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