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Well the fool proof way to do it is get your stroker crank and do a (careful) trial fit to see where you need to grind. A stock crank will give you a starting point - where the counter weights are nearest to the block.yes, I am talking about removing a bit of steel to make way for the counter weights
I want someone who has built one to let me know as I have got different answers from everbody and some sites say that they are original equipment replacement, so I assume that means no block modification, however a follow up question would be:
If I have to grind a bit away, can I do this from underneath subframe etc. removed??
Basically what has happened is I did my big ends and mains recently and the crank didn't look too flash and when all the bearings were back in I still have a very light knock, so it's time for a new crank, as I'm not rich enough for a full rebuild. And I figured if it is easy I may as well claim a bit of extra torque for my troubles.
Depends entirely on the crank you are planning to use. For the 3 hours spent pulling the motor out of the car, many times that will be saved in rooting around though.ummm, doesnt the bores need to be taken out to 30 thou to be a 355? and the pistons need to be zero decked? how do you plan on doing that in the car?