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Blue/black Dizzies And Stuff.
- Thread starter Kim
- Start date
HEI dizzy wiring
I was about to log this as a new question and this was the first thread I saw. Almost answers my question.
I'm putting a HEI dizzy in my HJ Monaro. I don't know exactly where it came from, I thought it was a VH, but reading this thread it might be a VK.
Anyway, the dizzy has two wires coming from it - lt brown and dk green - where do the go? I know they both go to the coil, but which terminals. The above quote states that they both go to the -ve side. At least that's the way I'm reading it. That can't be right, can it?
My Commodore book shows that they go one to +ve and one to -ve, but it doesn't feel the need to tell you which way round those wires go.
Please help. :b:
Rod.
208_Fireball said:
I was about to log this as a new question and this was the first thread I saw. Almost answers my question.
I'm putting a HEI dizzy in my HJ Monaro. I don't know exactly where it came from, I thought it was a VH, but reading this thread it might be a VK.
Anyway, the dizzy has two wires coming from it - lt brown and dk green - where do the go? I know they both go to the coil, but which terminals. The above quote states that they both go to the -ve side. At least that's the way I'm reading it. That can't be right, can it?
My Commodore book shows that they go one to +ve and one to -ve, but it doesn't feel the need to tell you which way round those wires go.
Please help. :b:
Rod.
208_Fireball
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Hi Rod,
The light brown wire (maybe is just crusty pink?) should go to the positive side of the coil, and the green should go to the negative.
If in doubt, the gregory manual for the VC/VH shows the actual pins of the electronic module, you should be able to trace from there
Cheers,
Dave
The light brown wire (maybe is just crusty pink?) should go to the positive side of the coil, and the green should go to the negative.
If in doubt, the gregory manual for the VC/VH shows the actual pins of the electronic module, you should be able to trace from there
Cheers,
Dave
C
cvwagon
Guest
The plastic cam gear is crap.
For all of you that are considering the dizzy swap, use a steel cam gear from the oil pump (another oil pump obviously) and piss that nylon one off. There is nothing worse than stripping out the teeth on a plastic gear, because once one tooth goes, the others follow straight away. You may notice that early sixes have a steel gear on the dizzy anyway; another cost cutting exercise by Holden I imagine.
For all of you that are considering the dizzy swap, use a steel cam gear from the oil pump (another oil pump obviously) and piss that nylon one off. There is nothing worse than stripping out the teeth on a plastic gear, because once one tooth goes, the others follow straight away. You may notice that early sixes have a steel gear on the dizzy anyway; another cost cutting exercise by Holden I imagine.
Thanks for the clarification
Thanks for that. You could be right about the pink not brown. I was doing it from memory at work. But I'll give that a shot and see how it goes.
Rod.
208_Fireball said:Hi Rod,
The light brown wire (maybe is just crusty pink?) should go to the positive side of the coil, and the green should go to the negative.
If in doubt, the gregory manual for the VC/VH shows the actual pins of the electronic module, you should be able to trace from there
Cheers,
Dave
Thanks for that. You could be right about the pink not brown. I was doing it from memory at work. But I'll give that a shot and see how it goes.
Rod.
HEI Dizzy wiring and problems.
Correct me if I'm wrong. The ballast resistor wire that is used in cars with points-type dizzies should be bypassed when using a HEI dizzy, right? What effect will it have if it is not?
The reason I ask this is because the HEI dizzy I just installed appears to be misfiring erratically. All plugs fire, but then they don't. It's not just a single plug missing consistantly, they all fire but the all appear to intermittently miss. I've resistance tested the leads and they're all well within spec. The coil lead is new.
If the dizzy module was knackered then it wouldn't fire at all, right?
Could it be the coil that's past it's use-by date?
This is a brand new engine (308) with a few bits of this and other bits of that. I know the carby needs looking at but I want to sort out the ignition issues first. Any help greatly appreciated. :b:
Rod.
Correct me if I'm wrong. The ballast resistor wire that is used in cars with points-type dizzies should be bypassed when using a HEI dizzy, right? What effect will it have if it is not?
The reason I ask this is because the HEI dizzy I just installed appears to be misfiring erratically. All plugs fire, but then they don't. It's not just a single plug missing consistantly, they all fire but the all appear to intermittently miss. I've resistance tested the leads and they're all well within spec. The coil lead is new.
If the dizzy module was knackered then it wouldn't fire at all, right?
Could it be the coil that's past it's use-by date?
This is a brand new engine (308) with a few bits of this and other bits of that. I know the carby needs looking at but I want to sort out the ignition issues first. Any help greatly appreciated. :b:
Rod.
Last edited:
T
turismo2029
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Holy sh*t.
The first message in this topic is huge.
I didn't read all of it and I understood about 0% of what I read but it seems pretty informative...
Nice work I guess man...
The first message in this topic is huge.
I didn't read all of it and I understood about 0% of what I read but it seems pretty informative...
Nice work I guess man...
jimrichards1964
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202 mods
350 hollies while good, in stock trim need power valve, jet changes, adaptor plate cost and because of large cfm dont pull vacum advance to well and can lean out at full throttle causing burnt valves. To save bickies and once tuned leave alone go the 34/36 weber, re-drill the blue/black manifold tap holes to bolt carby direct to manifold, I did and never looked back. To get around vacum advance worries re-graph dizzy, but I hooked up the vacum advance to the red id'd port on the weber, set timing to 6 btdc and no pinging, no lag etc . Hook up the hose to cannister as required, wind close the dash pot, block off all other vacum ports, inparticular the one at base of mounting block. Get throttle cable as high as poss to prevent sudden throttle, all in all costs considered the weber even allowing for time works out a better option, I tried a 350 on my other blue 202, it lagged, hunted, backfired and opened a inch hole in fuel tank! If anyone is in Perth area of Belmont etc I am happy to show how neat and well my 1.9 Starfire runs with a non modified weber. I had the safety of not getting caught and got a smigy under 100 kph in second dut to gearing not power. [email protected] Happy to show what I did. ps Keep all bits from falcon weber, bolts, air cleaner, everything.
I
350 hollies while good, in stock trim need power valve, jet changes, adaptor plate cost and because of large cfm dont pull vacum advance to well and can lean out at full throttle causing burnt valves. To save bickies and once tuned leave alone go the 34/36 weber, re-drill the blue/black manifold tap holes to bolt carby direct to manifold, I did and never looked back. To get around vacum advance worries re-graph dizzy, but I hooked up the vacum advance to the red id'd port on the weber, set timing to 6 btdc and no pinging, no lag etc . Hook up the hose to cannister as required, wind close the dash pot, block off all other vacum ports, inparticular the one at base of mounting block. Get throttle cable as high as poss to prevent sudden throttle, all in all costs considered the weber even allowing for time works out a better option, I tried a 350 on my other blue 202, it lagged, hunted, backfired and opened a inch hole in fuel tank! If anyone is in Perth area of Belmont etc I am happy to show how neat and well my 1.9 Starfire runs with a non modified weber. I had the safety of not getting caught and got a smigy under 100 kph in second dut to gearing not power. [email protected] Happy to show what I did. ps Keep all bits from falcon weber, bolts, air cleaner, everything.
I
FastEHHolden
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In response to VPWAGON..
Leave the ballast resistor wire there and use it as the trigger wire for a relay...no messy rewiring from the ignition switch and after the relay is wired up a full 12 Volts to the coil and dizzy.
Leave the ballast resistor wire there and use it as the trigger wire for a relay...no messy rewiring from the ignition switch and after the relay is wired up a full 12 Volts to the coil and dizzy.
B
bjturtle
Guest
Rotor button hei & est dizzy
Bad news. Am in the process of changing dizzys on my VK & noticed that the rotors are NOT interchangeable. They will not physically fit plus the est rotor has a much wider contact area which i believe it for the computer to adjust the dwell angle regardless of the manual setting of the dizzy.
Correct me if I'm wrong. I may have got the wrong one to start with.
Vitt
Bad news. Am in the process of changing dizzys on my VK & noticed that the rotors are NOT interchangeable. They will not physically fit plus the est rotor has a much wider contact area which i believe it for the computer to adjust the dwell angle regardless of the manual setting of the dizzy.
Correct me if I'm wrong. I may have got the wrong one to start with.
Vitt