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Blue/black Dizzies And Stuff.

vk202

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temp sensor

hi mate the temp sensor is located near #6 spark plug ive put up a pic to show u were you should find it
 

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86VL5spd

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Hi ive got a VK and cant get my temp gague to work, was wondering which and where is the wire for it? lot of wires have been cut in engine bay?

Also my dizzy hasnt been put in prply, was wondering how to set it up correctly coz for it to run nice i have to turn it right into engine and it keeps breaking then vac hose off?

Thanks Damo!!!
 

commsirac

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Plastic dizzy drives

I refitted my electronic dizzy with a metal drive, but perhaps that wasnt the right thing to do. Not sure about the full story on these, but here are some things for consideration:

As stated ^ previously, the gears "may" have been made out of plastic in order to protect the drive gear on the cam.
I have heard of some problems occuring with missfires on electronic dizzys with the metal drive fitted between 6-7000rpm that is cured by fitting the nylon/plastic drive........dont ask me how or why....I dont know! (perhaps some type of resonance problem)
Holden designed these parts with 200000km ~15 year lifespan in mind, so just like the speedo drive and driven gears these parts dont last much longer.
Perhaps the best thing to do is to replace the plastic drive every 80000km or ten years.
 

philbio

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VK + VY Gas Cars
I think it should be mentioned that the VK varajet carburettor does not have a vacuum advance port to attach the VH HEI distributor to (only port available is below butterfly and 'constant' vacuum). It appears that I will now have to source an earlier version with the port or somehow modify the VK varajet model (drill hole)?

I am happy to take further advice on this.

Update:

In speaking with a carburettor shop the VK carburettor has to be drilled and then fitted with a Holden Camira Base. I chose to replace the carburettor with a VH model.
 
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vulkus

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All you do is pull out the EST dizzy, and drop in a blue HEI dizzy. The pink wire stays connected to the + side of the coil, and the 2 wires from the HEI one hook onto the coil too. It's as easy as that. There is a brown wire in the VK that hooks onto the coil neg terminal for the tacho.
My question is this, I have the donor car with the HEI, I have my car with the EST.
Do I need to static time the engine first?
Or do I just throw salt over my shoulder and pull out the EST dizzy and plop in the HEI?
 

edsvk

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periodic vibration

i own a vk wagon with a black motor, at a certain point it developes a vibration througout the cari i tried changing from the EST ignition to HEI but had a large amont of problems so changed back to the EST unit. I have also tried other EST units with no success and rebuit the Varajet 2 carby twice. What could the cause of this be? any help would be appreciated
 

hiy_po

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cranks

This might be a bit off topic but did the 173 (3.0inch stroke) blue motor crank get any treatment to lift its torsional vibration up the rev range same as the 3.3 cranks (thanks to the extra counter weights). or is the 2.8 blue crank the same as the 173 red crank ??
Thanks :whistling

Back on topic I have spent the last few days fitting and experimenting with a MSD BTM #6462. I used the EST crank trigger and EST dizzy + rotor with the MSD taking over the timing from the EST computer. It didnt work for me, it detonated its rings out on my turbo but with a std VK est it may be a good upgrade to get a bit extra out of the 3.3 varajet combo. I would think any of the 6ALs out there would wire and run the same as the BTM Im using.
I removed the crank trigger and EST dizzy + rotor and dropped in a VH bosch electronic distributer I removed the module and wired the pickup wires from the dizzys coil (opposite to the std setting) to the magnetic pickup on the MSD. This works better but I still cant get any adjustment. Turning the dizzy seems to do nothing to alter the timing.
My best result so far has been by not using the magnetic pickup on the MSD but by removing the green wire from the coil and connecting it to the white wire on the MSD. Then the pinkish wire from the dizzy (+ve on the coil) gets hooked in with the red wire and the ignition +ve wire from the loom.
Ill still tuning so Ill update if I find anything interesting out.

Next day: I removed the module from the Bosch dizzy along with the two wires that normally go to the coil. Hooked the Bosch's magnetic trigger up to the MSD's magnetic pickup but crossed them over ie small plug to large spade, big plug to small spade. I also removed all of the mechanical/centrificle advance from the blue motor dizzy so it is now locked with no advance. After an afternoon of testing I have the boost upto 11psi and have the retard set to 2 on the BTM. I set the inital static timing to 12degrees. The car is starting easier and is way better to get moving without having to ride the clutch. the lag is noticeably reduced. It pulls hard and faultless upto the 6000rpm rev limiter. It was hard to wipe the smiles of our faces as we put the car away tonight.
 
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mightyredvc

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weber carb

hope this is the right place to post this...

i fitted a weber 34 adm to my blue, made the adapter and everything my self, and was really happy with the results. more power, better economy, easier starting, all the good stuff.

problem is it chewed through 3 throttle cables in 12 months. i can see the angle is wrong and all but i have no idea how to fix it. it mentioned in the start to the thread that the linkage needs modifying. how?
what exactly do i need to do?:confused:
 

AJ-VL-23

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82 VH Commodore 202
I have a VH 202 auto bluemotor, the HEI dizzy was broken i now have what i believe to be a redmotor standard vacuum advanced one in there which works fine, i was wondering where these three wires go and if they are related?

IMG00250-1.jpg

Green i wired to the temp sensor and the brown i wired to the alternator, i have what i think is a vk thermostat housing which also has a temp sensor in it, should i wire this wire to that instead of the one near plug 6? or will the one near plug 6 work fine? i have a VC stage 2 dash installed without a tacho

also i fitted a CAIN intake manifold and a 350 holley, i used the pipe from the side of the carb to the dizzy vacuum advance i copied this from the patrol that the holley was from, i don't have any EGR gear as i have extractors fitted, this is how i have put the rest of the vacuum pipes, there is a pipe on the baseplate of the carby but it has been clamped shut should i move any of my pipes there?

IMG00198-1-1.jpg


i have no understanding of how the thermal vacuum switches work and at the moment they are bypassed if i need to use them how would i go about rigging them up, i also looped my pcv system back into itself, is this much of an issue?

sorry for all the questions at once, any info is much appreciated
 
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