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Boost666s L67 Calais

AirStrike

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Parts on order and soon to be fitted:
Mace 14 psi kit
Mace a2a intercooler kit
Mace 70mm tb
Ported intake with 6.35mm insulator
82* thermostat
Mace 1.9:1 roller rockers
105lb valve springs
Comp valve locks
Comp cam to suit
Double row timing chain
4 layer cometic head gaskets
Ported/polished heads
X force headers and 2.5 duel exhaust system
Dyno tune
[/IMG]
Fuel system...........................
 

BOOST666

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Fuel system...........................

Still yet to order that gear, I'm thinking Bosch 044 pump, thrasher billet fuel rail kit with adjustable pressure reg, not decided yet on injector size maybe 60lb and most likely a chiptorque memcal to suit. I want to try avoid the bullshyt of rigging up an aftermarket ecu, guess we'll see how it goes
 

AirStrike

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Never been a fan of mail order tunes, especially on a boosted setup.
 

BOOST666

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Well I know that everything I've got so far is going to work together, the fuel and ecu side of things will all be ordered thru my tuner, so I should be ok
 

borrttt

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Like this build! I'm in the process of inter cooling my L67. Going W2A, keeping cam and heads standard but using YT split ratio rockers. About to send LIM off for porting to W2A cooler, having blower outlet and inlet ported aswell as extreme rotor to blower porting, matched to a custom carbon intake elbow and LS1 TB, mace light weight rotors. Going to throw a 2.7"/17 pound pulley on, 60Lb injectors and a tune by dicks.

Great to see another l67 on here giving the 8's a run ;)
 

BOOST666

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Like this build! I'm in the process of inter cooling my L67. Going W2A, keeping cam and heads standard but using YT split ratio rockers. About to send LIM off for porting to W2A cooler, having blower outlet and inlet ported aswell as extreme rotor to blower porting, matched to a custom carbon intake elbow and LS1 TB, mace light weight rotors. Going to throw a 2.7"/17 pound pulley on, 60Lb injectors and a tune by dicks.

Great to see another l67 on here giving the 8's a run ;)

Nice mate, your car will be in good hands at dicks, they have tuned one of the quickest L67s in Aus
 

PaRaDoX

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It's a very common mod on L67s, I think you mean the actuator?
Actuator controls bypass valve (butterfly) in blower.
You can lose boost pressure via the solenoid hence why a lot of people decide to disable it

Just because it's common doesn't mean its a good idea, Lots of people smoke crack..
The solenoid should not leak (mine doesn't), Your car will never be using the o2 or lean cruise due to passive boost.

Also, You've ordered a Multi Layered Steel headgasket (MLS), it uses a Viton coating to seal which is VERY unforgiving to intolerances in the deck surface, without a RA spec machine (mirror finish) it will not seal. I can tell you this from first hand experience. you will need to machine the block and head which means engine out, pistons+rods+crank out. You should also order the cometic after knowing how much needs to be decked, If i were you I'd go for a really good composite head gasket and some ARP bolts and clamp it tight.

I'm not trying to be a dick just trying to save you a big headache.
 

benny_bones

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The solenoid does leak, if you have been on the l67 torque forum you would know 90% of members have done the bypass mod
 

benny_bones

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electrically or mechanically the boost bypass SOLENOID seems to stuff up regularly for people, by leaking boost pressure past the solenoid & reducing their boost pressure when it is not required.

Ok basically the M90 supercharger has a bypass valve in its inlet. It allows air to circulate around from the discharge pressure side of the blower & back to the inlet side of the rotors via the small butterfly valve. This needs to happen when the Throttle Body is in the closed position. With the Throttle Body plate in the closed position & limited air from the Intake Air Control (IAC) able to enter the inlet tract, the spinning rotors will still try to paddle air forward as the M90 is a positive displacement pump. So with a bypass valve open the air pushed forward can recirculate back up into the inlet tract for the rotors to push it through again & again, around & around. Because at idle the engine is not using (or needing) the amount of air the rotors are pushing forward, there is enough lower inlet manifold pressure to return via the bypass valve to the inlet side of the rotors. Yet still have the inlet side running at enough vacuum without cavitating (rattling & heat production). The condition at idle with the Throttle Body being closed & the blower still trying to paddle the air inside it forward. Would, without a bypass valve, create a large negative vacuum pressure, (positive inlet air pressure starvation) on the inlet side of the rotors, & cavitation (an impolsion) rattling will occur. If you didn't have a bypass valve in play the air in the blower would also heat up unnecessarily due to the resulting cavitation.

Now the Boost Bypass Valve is operated via a mechanical means. It has a air (or really a vacuum) operated diaphragm actuator hooked up to it. There are two sides to the actuator which are divided by a diaphragm, a upper (Top) chamber with light spring & a lower (Bottom) chamber. A Inlet vacuum hose is hooked up to the upper side (Top) chamber. At idle when vacuum is highest & throttle bodys are closed, vacuum in the upper chamber pulls the diaphragm up against the spring, which lifts a rod linkage connected to the Boost Bypass Butterfly Valve. The Boost Bypass opens and circulates the air & reduces boost pressure in the Lower Inlet Manifold.
As the throttle body is opened, the rpm picks up & the inlet manifold vacuum drops. As the vacuum drops the spring in the Top chamber takes over and pushes the diaphragm back down, returning the Boost Bypass Butterfly valve to its closed position (full boost).
 

kniever

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Very neat car mate, I got basically the same car but in black.

Also with the convo going mine had a power loss I was chasing and in the end it ended up being the boost solenoid, I did the mod and ended up gaining 4psi.
 
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