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Brake light issues

kinkyaz

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Hey guys im having dramas with my brake lights, when the lights are on drivers side tops real bright and passengers bottom bright. then u push the brake and the top passengers turns off and the drivers side bottom brightens up.
Its got me stumped i checked the bulb holders one was stuffed to i got a replacement and wired it up but hasn't made a difference im trying to hunt down some decent looms for both sides but any ideas welcome.
 

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The earth on these looms seems to corrode leading to back-feeding of voltage and bizzarre lighting behaviour and sometimes odd speedo movement.
You can fix the looms if you are keen and know how to track down the dud connections (caused by corrosion where wire joins metal frame) by testing resistance (continuity) from each pin on the plug to it's end point at the other end of the wire (not just at the end of the wire but at the piece it connects onto) Once you have located the duds mark them then you need to solder the wire onto the metal frame, re-doing the standard connector will not last long. The metal frame will not come out of the plastic holder easily you will need to apply an electric drill to get it out.
Sorting these looms will fix most lighting issues you will ever have on a VN-VP. It's worth sorting out, once you've done one side the next one will take about 15 minutes.
With the looms and plugs out you can also see exactly how the single and double filament bulbs go in and which way around the double filament bulb goes
(hint park light filament is less bright than brake light filament)
You will need a multimeter or a test light and 12 volt battery charger to find the bad connections. I prefer to use a multimeter.
Enjoy!
PS you can buy these looms new from Rare Spares for about $30 each.
 
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Coast_Calais

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The earth on these looms seems to corrode leading to back-feeding of voltage and bizzarre lighting behaviour and sometimes odd speedo movement.
You can fix the looms if you are keen and know how to track down the dud connections (caused by corrosion where wire joins metal frame) by testing resistance (continuity) from each pin on the plug to it's end point at the other end of the wire (not just at the end of the wire but at the piece it connects onto) Once you have located the duds mark them then you need to solder the wire onto the metal frame, re-doing the standard connector will not last long. The metal frame will not come out of the plastic holder easily you will need to apply an electric drill to get it out.
Sorting these looms will fix most lighting issues you will ever have on a VN-VP. It's worth sorting out, once you've done one side the next one will take about 15 minutes.
With the looms and plugs out you can also see exactly how the single and double filament bulbs go in and which way around the double filament bulb goes
(hint park light filament is less bright than brake light filament)
You will need a multimeter or a test light and 12 volt battery charger to find the bad connections. I prefer to use a multimeter.
Enjoy!
PS you can buy these looms new from Rare Spares for about $30 each.
Just a question Warranty, what makes you think back feeding is happening on a DC circuit?
The most I could see occurring is the corroded base for the globes bridging the brake or parker circuit, and one or more globes are feeding from a single or multiple bridged positive? remembering they are all positively switched, and all share a common earth.
I ask this because back feeding refers to reverse polarity in a circuit (usually from induced current) and I work in the industry.

So i'm not having a c0ck measuring contest with you, i'm asking where your coming from because maybe there is something i've missed or haven't thought of....

Cheers
 

Pub247

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I've seen blown bulbs cause this though it usually earth related
 

kinkyaz

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wow thats alot to take in lol i have swaped bulbs round and had same results 2 new bulbs in atm i have noticed that a couple holders are corroded mite try get new looms and see if that fixes it just got wof due in a couple weeks so wanna get it sorted.
 

Brett_jjj

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Its a long shot,but if you cant find any other cause,then check the wiring connector for the main rear tail light loom,which is located in the boot on the right side.Ive seen these connector pins corrode on earlier model commodores and cause problems similar to yours.We just unplugged the connector and cleaned up the contacts inside it and it was fixed.
 

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Cheers Coast Calais,
Might be just a technical term that I have misused, but that is how I think of the behavior of the current when the earth to the correct bulb or filament is absent and the result is another bulb or filament lighting up due to shared earths. I agree it shouldn't happen on positively switched DC circuits but I can't think of a more appropriate term for what appears to be happening.
 

kinkyaz

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hey guys i swap the loom and get all the lights goin when the head lights on but now i have no brake lights at all even the highstop isnt working this is really ####in me off and im running outa ideas :p
 

drewdc90

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Had a similar issue with my VP due to badly corroded bulb holders and was told by wreckers second hand ones will do the same thing. It is an earth issue due to the high current draw for the stop lights. The bad earth causes the current not to be able to pass thru. I cleaned each bulb holder and filed a clean contact area and then soldered the earth connection to each one and then ensured every bulb holder had a good solid earth connection and the lights are as good as the day the were installed. Took a little while to clean and resolder but for the past 3 years have not had aproblem with the rear tail/ brake , indicator or reverse lights.Tom
 
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