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Broken Rear Shock Mount Bolt

Trevor loves holden.

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I would like to know how do you know a mild steel threaded rod was used when there was no mention ?
Because I've never come across all thread in high tensile at any hardware store, I hope he talking about a threaded stud than all thread. And Bunnings do sell 3/8 all thread ( rod ) for 4.50. To get high tensile all thread would cost more than a bolt up to 10x as much.
 

woteva

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Because I've never come across all thread in high tensile at any hardware store, I hope he talking about a threaded stud than all thread. And Bunnings do sell 3/8 all thread ( rod ) for 4.50. To get high tensile all thread would cost more than a bolt up to 10x as much.
LOL, I bet you buy all the replacement bolts for your car from Bunnings.

Very easy to get some imperial grade 5 threaded rod from any fastener store.
https://www.unitedfasteners.com.au/threaded-rod-281/sampson-threaded-rod/unc-unf-g5-threaded-rod
 

Trevor loves holden.

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LOL, I bet you buy all the replacement bolts for your car from Bunnings.

Very easy to get some imperial grade 5 threaded rod from any fastener store.
https://www.unitedfasteners.com.au/threaded-rod-281/sampson-threaded-rod/unc-unf-g5-threaded-rod
Depends on what purpose, high tensile don't go to big in size in Bunnings, I can usually get the champion bolts in Supercheap again depending on the size, the west side of Melbourne is piss poor for fastener stores so I buy on line if I need a pacific size and tread type, oh grade 5 pmsl.
 

Phillbert

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I won't quote all the dribble but as said i got the rod from a Nut n Bolt store which recommend that piece of rod.
The rod/stud on the end of the shank does not take any weight, all the up/down pressure is on the shank itself.
The rod/stud is only to stop the shock from slipping off the shank. I had is held on with a zippy tie until i fixed it yesterday and it didn't move a bit, not that i drive it very long in that state lol.
 

VPRob

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I won't quote all the dribble but as said i got the rod from a Nut n Bolt store which recommend that piece of rod.
The rod/stud on the end of the shank does not take any weight, all the up/down pressure is on the shank itself.
The rod/stud is only to stop the shock from slipping off the shank. I had is held on with a zippy tie until i fixed it yesterday and it didn't move a bit, not that i drive it very long in that state lol.

Well done Phillbert. Glad you got the job done, let us know how and why and avoided responding directly to the warriors on your post.
 

Trevor loves holden.

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I won't quote all the dribble but as said i got the rod from a Nut n Bolt store which recommend that piece of rod.
The rod/stud on the end of the shank does not take any weight, all the up/down pressure is on the shank itself.
The rod/stud is only to stop the shock from slipping off the shank. I had is held on with a zippy tie until i fixed it yesterday and it didn't move a bit, not that i drive it very long in that state lol.
Good maybe mention what grade rod, its done now sounds like you done it the hard way when a simple 100mm 8.8 bolt done up tight in your new tapped out thread with some tread lock and then cut off the hex end would of made things much easier for your self, washer and locknut and your done. Just remember if its only a mild to mid strength rod a person may still over tighten it and snap it off again that's why its best to go high tensile not because it doesn't bare weight.
The workshop manual says to torque the lower shock bolt to 105-125Nm, might of been best to tap it out and just use a 8.8 bolt instead of a stud and nut. Next time if need be, cheers.
 
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