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304 Build options

MasterOfReality

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Early days, starting to think about what to do with the old 304 and auto combo to make it a bit more lively, and the pros and cons of each option. Opinions would be appreciated.

Budget - I realise the costs are exponential with power but would like to keep it realistic and within the $20k range with all drivetrain upgrades included. Not sure if I'm in the ballpark here though. The car isn't a daily driver so don't want to go silly with costs.

1. Mild stock stroke 304. Would like to keep original appearance but understand banana manifold is a restriction, and for the cost involved might as well go a stroker? Would increased CR and a cam with some 3.7 diff gears liven things up? How much reliable power can one get out of a stock stroke 304?

2. Stroker 355. More torque however loses stock appearance.

3. Bolt on supercharger kit for stock engine. Easy power however instant defect as soon as a cop has a look at it?

As mentioned before, car isn't a daily driver so not fussed on manners or driveability that much. I don't want an instant defect on wheels either though, just something that is relatively quick without going overboard.
 

gtrboyy

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Start at the back work your way forwards untill run out of budget...then you'll know how much can spend on engine lol.

Appetiser would be: 3.7 gears/lsd tightened up
transgo shiftkit,transcooler,corvette servo & boost valve...good 3-3.5k stally if want to hurt budget.
pacies with 2.5" outlets,twin 100-200cell metal cats, 2.5" exhaust to 3" single
Tuned memcal & modified mace airbox maybe bolton yella terra rockers.

That would be basic starting point as long as engine & transmission is in good shape...most people stop around here either happy with step up in performance or don't want to spend anymore lol

This is time to drive & enjoy then decide how much further to go or leave it.

As much as I love big cam n/a I'm liking idea of vortech better these days...right mods run 11's yet still drive around with decent manners & if get defected much easier to unbolt side mount & put factory airbox in than it is swapping intakes/cams or top mount blower.
 

afstruct

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AS above .
@gtrboyy has it right for all the starters= as in your gonna want anyway.
Personally I'd want to be upgrading brakes
Also can still have stock look with 355= keep stock manifold ( or maybe get it flowed a bit) , or get a starr manifold to help even more = ( because I don't want to get rid of, u can offer absolutely stupid money for mine , Ha ha ha and I'll still most likely say no).
Got my CV8 Monaro engineered with a Harrop 2300 supercharger so surely can get 304/355 engineered with a vortex and then just add more later if u want.
Need to decide whether want to go supercharger ,= could possibly fit in your budget with things gtrboyy said and brakes and known engine condition= just throw supercharger on stock/untouched engine and save/budget for down the track engine refresh/rebuild , cam and cubes = go fantastic as a street car.
 

MasterOfReality

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Start at the wheels, move in, then start at the back and move forward.
Once you get to the motor you will know what budget remains for power.

Brakes
Diff
Trans
Then engine work.

Yep makes sense.

Start at the back work your way forwards untill run out of budget...then you'll know how much can spend on engine lol.

Appetiser would be: 3.7 gears/lsd tightened up
transgo shiftkit,transcooler,corvette servo & boost valve...good 3-3.5k stally if want to hurt budget.
pacies with 2.5" outlets,twin 100-200cell metal cats, 2.5" exhaust to 3" single
Tuned memcal & modified mace airbox maybe bolton yella terra rockers.

That would be basic starting point as long as engine & transmission is in good shape...most people stop around here either happy with step up in performance or don't want to spend anymore lol

This is time to drive & enjoy then decide how much further to go or leave it.

As much as I love big cam n/a I'm liking idea of vortech better these days...right mods run 11's yet still drive around with decent manners & if get defected much easier to unbolt side mount & put factory airbox in than it is swapping intakes/cams or top mount blower.

The engine (180kw hsv engine pack with SV airbox) has 152,000km on it so I assume its in reasonably good nick. Has a slight lope at idle and nothing much happens under 3k rpm then it goes nuts to redline. Could be my imagination haha, I think it may have a shift kit in it already as changes are pretty quick and rough, unless the 4L60's were all like that. Exhaust is a twin cat 2.5 inch into 3 inch outlet.

Diff gears sound the go at the moment.

The votech does sound good, as long as I can keep the aircon!

AS above .
@gtrboyy has it right for all the starters= as in your gonna want anyway.
Personally I'd want to be upgrading brakes
Also can still have stock look with 355= keep stock manifold ( or maybe get it flowed a bit) , or get a starr manifold to help even more = ( because I don't want to get rid of, u can offer absolutely stupid money for mine , Ha ha ha and I'll still most likely say no).
Got my CV8 Monaro engineered with a Harrop 2300 supercharger so surely can get 304/355 engineered with a vortex and then just add more later if u want.
Need to decide whether want to go supercharger ,= could possibly fit in your budget with things gtrboyy said and brakes and known engine condition= just throw supercharger on stock/untouched engine and save/budget for down the track engine refresh/rebuild , cam and cubes = go fantastic as a street car.

Brakes - I stupidly knocked back a complete set of VN Group A brakes (rotors, calipers, lines and caliper brackets for $1200 about 18 years ago lol.

Haven't looked into engineering a 304 with vortech in QLD, but if it is possible then would get brakes done at the same time.

More I think about it, the more the supercharger makes sense.
 

losh1971

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Your trans is either kitted, or someone turned up the valve. Turning up the valve is cowboy work. I was offered but I knew it can't be reversed and knew it was dodge, so I told him to not touch it. Mine shifted smooth but the boost valve helped with that prior to boost valve it was harsher but not much. I wanted mine kitted but with unknown condition and if trans had any upgrades my proper and good trans bloke suggested I wait until rebuild and strengthen. Your 2nd gear shifts might be firmer as I believe V8 came stock with upgrade servo.
 

gtrboyy

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Good thing about crappy vp brakes is they make car scarier than it should be...'cos you're never sure it will stop properly if you try to go fast haha.

Vortech kit from Capa was built for stock cars to retain p/steer & air con....just got to grind bit of alternator & add drain to sump or can send them your dipstick tube to modify but known to eventually leak.

All of the factory airboxes proven to be restrictive even hsv items...even mace item although it's got more volume & way larger opening which makes it better.

Add pacemakers & 100-200cell metal cats if haven't got them already....mace airbox & Ace Performance memcal tune which should be decent improvement to get most out of 3.7 gears & 4l60e mods.

Trans might only have synchroniser kit or maybe already got transgo shift kit,boost valve & corvette servo....if it's got latter trans mods you'd know 'cos be heaps of fun in rain & in the dry that 1st to 2nd rear end steps out at full throttle lol
 

shane_3800

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Good thing about crappy vp brakes is they make car scarier than it should be...'cos you're never sure it will stop properly if you try to go fast haha.

Vortech kit from Capa was built for stock cars to retain p/steer & air con....just got to grind bit of alternator & add drain to sump or can send them your dipstick tube to modify but known to eventually leak.

All of the factory airboxes proven to be restrictive even hsv items...even mace item although it's got more volume & way larger opening which makes it better.

Add pacemakers & 100-200cell metal cats if haven't got them already....mace airbox & Ace Performance memcal tune which should be decent improvement to get most out of 3.7 gears & 4l60e mods.

Trans might only have synchroniser kit or maybe already got transgo shift kit,boost valve & corvette servo....if it's got latter trans mods you'd know 'cos be heaps of fun in rain & in the dry that 1st to 2nd rear end steps out at full throttle lol

The only car I've ever had boil on me was my old VP wagon with about 0.5mm of pad left and rotors on min thickness with rusty brake fluid.

I'm the opposite of above. Build engine and when stuff brakes then upgrade.

You go the other way you might spend 2k on a diff then do the engine and shear an axle only to be told bigger better axles need a new diff at 3k plus 1k for axles.

Just make the power first then see what brakes.
Some guys get good life out of the old 4l60's just depends on you right foot. So if your right foot can blow or save components why bother upgrading until you actually know you have to.
 

losh1971

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Yeah well better make sure you have full roadside assist with unlimited tow, if you plan to hope for the best. Then need to make sure you have a spare car to drive while you wait six months to have your trans or diff rebuilt.
 

shane_3800

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Yeah well better make sure you have full roadside assist with unlimited tow, if you plan to hope for the best. Then need to make sure you have a spare car to drive while you wait six months to have your trans or diff rebuilt.

If I'm not mistaken OP said it was a weekend car.....
 
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