Building a sub box

[Tasmaniak]

Oh that kinda bad. Lol, as a typical rule of thumb I do have a tendency to allow a box to dry overnight when possible before mounting and wiring. Not everytime though.

Just as a further thought... I tend to route all my edges (except for sub hole) just finish it off. Although this sometimes makes it a little harder for a novice to carpet.

Some notes on carpeting... The spray adhesive should be applied to both wood and carpet. Allow it to become tack dry and then wrap. When spraying the wood.. I like to put a nice even later across the panel but the I spray one more quick layer around all the edges. Just my personal preference.

 

[Kinng]

Yeah, PVC should work just fine, just use a good amount off it.

Sorry if this is a noob question, but is the box meant to open and close? Or will the box be built round the sub?

Kinng

 

[Tasmaniak]

Open and close? You mean can a panel be removed or something? Heh, yep noob question but with a civil response! The idea of the enclosure is to make it airtight, no air is allowed to escape. In the case of vented or ported... The air is only allowed to escape through that vent... All panels and seams must still be "airtight"

I wrote an article for a magazine years ago regarding speaker boxes, if I can find it Ill post it up.

 

[ephect]

Build box, cut out circle for sub, place sub in holes, mark and screw down. Sealed unit, porting optional

 

[Kinng]

Open and close? You mean can a panel be removed or something? Heh, yep noob question but with a civil response! The idea of the enclosure is to make it airtight, no air is allowed to escape. In the case of vented or ported... The air is only allowed to escape through that vent... All panels and seams must still be "airtight"

I wrote an article for a magazine years ago regarding speaker boxes, if I can find it Ill post it up.

Oh ok, yes a very noob question then haha. Oh well, that is why I joined this forum, to extend my knowledge haha.

I though the point of the box was to secure the sub down haha.

Ok, fair enough. If the box isn't ported then wouldn't overheating and that become an issue?

Kinng

Build box, cut out circle for sub, place sub in holes, mark and screw down. Sealed unit, porting optional

Yeah, I see how it works now haha.

Kinng

 

[Tasmaniak]

Very rarely does overheating become an issue. The magnets are often designed to cool themselves and the voice coil pumping up and down inside them. If it does get too hot... You have bigger issues.

Ephect... Yes you got it right... But also so very wrong. It's not that simple. As for building a box and gluing with PVC only, go for it but don't run big power through. It will seperate. That's a promise.

Plus you can't build a box then decide to port it. Unless you magically built the box way too big for a sealed enclosure. Then you can try but good luck!

 

[ephect]

Haha, nar I used wood screws and PVC. May have over screwed it but it'll handle what's thrown at it.

I know there is a whole science to porting, just easy to reply to the Q in short form.

 

[Kinng]

Yeah, I think Ephect was just tired and cbf elaborating, lol.

Cheers Ephect and Tasmaniak for your time, really helped

Kinng

 

[seq4x4]

I thought i might hijack instead of making a new thread, whats the differance between these 3 options? Also im not sure what their mesurments are, IE: liters and such.
Soundstream - Subwoofers - Arachnid
I just need to know as im using this calulator to work out what i need: Subwoofer Enclosure Calculators, Fraction to Decimal, Parallel, Series, Port Length and Volume Calculators
High Tuning
Sm Sealed 0.75
Qtc 1.153
F3 52.55
Med Sealed 1.00
Qtc 1.045
F3 48.22
Lg Sealed 1.25
Qtc 0.977
F3 45.76

 

[Tasmaniak]

The smaller a box is the "tighter" it tends to sound. It cannot play as low as it possibly can but tends to be of a better quality. As the enclosure size is increased the lower that sub will go but may drop quality.

Finally, smaller boxes need more power. In your instance I would lean towards the larger enclosure.