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304 Cam installation

i h8 2 w8

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Yeh i figured it wouldnt be cheap what if the cam was a solid roller camshaft would i still have to machine it out... thanks
 

ari666

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lol, do roller camshafts come with a hydraulic option? i would have thought a roller cam would have been much better for freeing up revs ?!

lol, just looked up the specs of that cam; http://www.cranecams.com.au/pdfs/holdencams_guidesheet_14-5-07.pdf

hope you have the rest of the setup, i.e. 4000 stall converter, get this; minimum 3.5 gears -4.1 lol. money for fuel much? and my favorite; 10:1 comp ratio MINIMUM.

i would not use that cam, bro. not unless you have a squillion dollars. 4000 grand stall will need to be custom built, 4.1 gears are not that bad, but 10:5.1 comp... not to mention you will need to kit the tranny. im guessing you have a bunch of banananananas, throw that away. ecu and the rest of the blah.

dont use that cam.
 

383 hatch

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lol, do roller camshafts come with a hydraulic option? i would have thought a roller cam would have been much better for freeing up revs ?!

lol, just looked up the specs of that cam; http://www.cranecams.com.au/pdfs/holdencams_guidesheet_14-5-07.pdf

hope you have the rest of the setup, i.e. 4000 stall converter, get this; minimum 3.5 gears -4.1 lol. money for fuel much? and my favorite; 10:1 comp ratio MINIMUM.

i would not use that cam, bro. not unless you have a squillion dollars. 4000 grand stall will need to be custom built, 4.1 gears are not that bad, but 10:5.1 comp... not to mention you will need to kit the tranny. im guessing you have a bunch of banananananas, throw that away. ecu and the rest of the blah.

dont use that cam.

Roller cams are available in both hydraulic and solid/mechanical.

The 288 is a pretty big stick....4000 stall is fairly big but still street driveable, obviously not a daily driver but you could drive it. You don't absolutely need 4.11:1 gears, you could run 3.7's and get away with it, however you won't get the most out of it on the strip, but will still be fine on the street. Whats wrong with 10-10.5:1 comp? Can run that on pump fuel, so i don't see the problem?

You will need a good manifold, like a Torque power single plain or dual plain high rise and 1000cfm t/b and probably something like 42l/b injectors if staying injection or a 750-850cfm double pumper if going carby.

500HP is certainly achieveable with the 288 and the right combo, but you would need a 355 to do that:D
 

ari666

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But apart from that the other componaints wouldnt need changing would they, and what exactly would i need macheining... thanks

nothin wrong with 10:1 at all. but something wrong if he is running stock head/pistons. which i am assuming he is from the aforementioned post.

forgot to mention that youll prolly need to get the heads machined for bigger springs, and grab a nice set of roller rockers too. 572 and 591 are pretty big lifts.
 

stocky

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ok a few more questions before i start putting things back together.

with dialing in the cam, how important is this? a lot of people say not to bother. if i dont dial it in, do i just put it to TDC, and then install the gears with 9 links between the marks? is the factory timing chain still right to use? it can always be upgraded later if i decide to dial it in properly at some stage. should i look at cam advancing at all, or just leave it standard?

i also have been reading about running in these cams. after hearing about tyson tearing a lobe off his cam, i know how important this is, but does it only apply to new cams? mine is a few thousand K old, and so are the lifters. they were all in great condition though. the lifters have all been installed in the exact same spots as before (they were numbered). is running the cam in still essential? i was planning on doing it anyway to be on the safe side, and all the components have got cam lube on them.

headgaskets go on dry yes? so that means no sealant or anything on them as it should already be on the gaskets? these are felpro gaskets. sealant is used on the other gaskets, such as oil pump and inlet manifold, etc?
 

383 hatch

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ok a few more questions before i start putting things back together.

with dialing in the cam, how important is this? a lot of people say not to bother. if i dont dial it in, do i just put it to TDC, and then install the gears with 9 links between the marks? is the factory timing chain still right to use? it can always be upgraded later if i decide to dial it in properly at some stage. should i look at cam advancing at all, or just leave it standard?

i also have been reading about running in these cams. after hearing about tyson tearing a lobe off his cam, i know how important this is, but does it only apply to new cams? mine is a few thousand K old, and so are the lifters. they were all in great condition though. the lifters have all been installed in the exact same spots as before (they were numbered). is running the cam in still essential? i was planning on doing it anyway to be on the safe side, and all the components have got cam lube on them.

headgaskets go on dry yes? so that means no sealant or anything on them as it should already be on the gaskets? these are felpro gaskets. sealant is used on the other gaskets, such as oil pump and inlet manifold, etc?

If you are not 100% sure on how to dial a cam in, just put it in as per standard. As i've said before, it's not absolutely critical to dial a cam in. I'm sure people will disagree though. If you put it in standard, then just TDC on number 1, then 9 links up the chain, line the cam gear dot up, and thats it. The standard chain can be resused, as long as its not real sloppy. For the price i'd just put a new timing chain set in and be done with it....

If the cam is second hand, it shouldn't need to be run in. Just go through the motions to make sure the cam gets plenty of oil on first start up. So, probably hold the revs at 2000 for a couple of minutes to make sure the cam gets oil asap.

All gaskets go on dry, no sealant needed. Although, on the inlet manifold, ditch the cork gaskets at the ends and just put a nice bead of silicone in there. :thumbsup:
 

stocky

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cheers tim. i figured you might reply to this.

with the 9 links, is that where the two gold chain links come into it? there are 7 in between those, so do i line the dots up with the centre of these gold links while cylinder 1 is at TDC? i did that today and it seems like its similar to the way i had it with the factory cam.

dialling in doesnt seem too difficult. the wade instructions make it not sound so bad. its just the problem of finding the dial indicator, etc.

ive also heard the same thing about ditching the ends of the inlet manifold gaskets too. ill probably go out and grab some of that ultra black loctite stuff and use that.
 

383 hatch

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Yeh, the gold links are 7 links apart, so as you said line up the centre of the gold links with the timing marks on the cam/crank gears while at number 1 TDC.

I just use normal silicone in a caulking gun for the inlet manifold, make sure you put a nice fat bead along it as you can always trim the excess off once its dry, but if you put too little it'll leak. Cork gaskets suck, throw them straight in the nearest bin....;)

If you can get all the right tools, then by all means dial the cam in, it's just i've got better things to do with my time. :p
 

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haha yeah thats right. my brother was going to get a dial indicator from work or something, but havent heard about it yet, so i cant sit around waiting for it wasting time when i could be getting it all back together.

my goal tomorrow will be to have the timing cover back on, with everything just about ready to put back together
 
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