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Cam recommendation

HDJ

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So car will be going in for a cam job on the 10th of Dec. I’ll be using castle hill performance. I will be sticking with stock stall and supercharger friendly cam whilst still wanting as lumpy of an idle I can get. They’ve recommended 224 236 115 .612” .620”. I’m not really familiar with how cams work but would this cam have a lumpy idle or sound like a stock cam? Reading a few things online and comparing it to VCM5SC and H02 it doesn’t look like it.
 

Forg

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Probably a dumb suggestion ... but if there's a clash between your desire for a lumpy idle & supercharger friendliness, can a lumpy idle be programmed in without hurting anything?
 
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panhead

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HDJ

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Probably a dumb suggestion ... but if there's a clash between your desire for a lumpy idle & supercharger friendliness, can a lumpy idle be programmed in without hurting anything?
Well that’s what I thought as well but he stated the cam distinguished the sound mainly not the tune.
 

HDJ

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The lobe separation says to me it will be smooth but that isn't they only factor in the equation plus the tuner's expertise play a part as well.


A turbo cam?



It's a stock Crow grind and I just found some info here.

Crow Cams LS Camshaft – OSPWarehouse

Crow Cams 224/236 Camshaft | Twin Turbo Camshaft - LSX Performance Parts


.
I asked for the biggest supercharger friendly cam that works with stall converter and produces a lumpy idle. That’s what he’s chosen for me.
 
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harrop.senator

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If going crow I'd like at the 225 244 boosted or the 227 244. The cam you've listed has a smaller exhaust duration which would seem like it'd be more agressive rpm wise.

The powerband advised by crow is lower it's 2200-6500 on the bigger split model boosted 2500-6400 on the na 227 vs 3000-6800 like you've been reccomended.

Crow warns 227 does and the other 2 may need a stall pending the tuner.

From memory the factory manifolds peak efficiency on the second wind is 6500 in them.


That's the na 227 model.

Very agressive idle. That's got centre and rear mufflers.
 
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harrop.senator

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Honestly I don't know if it's due to cats or knock sensors but I'd love a lower duration tight LSA like a 108-110 for the huge torque hit down low. I don't like how wide the LSA is in almost all LS cams. Leaves a lot on the table under 5k which is where you usually use it!
 

HDJ

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If going crow I'd like at the 225 244 boosted or the 227 244. The cam you've listed has a smaller exhaust duration which would seem like it'd be more agressive rpm wise.

The powerband advised by crow is lower it's 2200-6500 on the bigger split model boosted 2500-6400 on the na 227 vs 3000-6800 like you've been reccomended.

Crow warns 227 does and the other 2 may need a stall pending the tuner.

From memory the factory manifolds peak efficiency on the second wind is 6500 in them.


That's the na 227 model.

Very agressive idle. That's got centre and rear mufflers.
funnily enough shortly after this post i decided to get a hi stall as well and get the same cam 227/244 you mentioned however its 114 LSA. I've been told to expect anywhere from 335-350rwkw. currently at 280rwkw
 
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harrop.senator

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Honestly if that's the route you're going I'd forget about the blower. With a decent stall and stick the power will be practically unusable on the streets adding boost.

A good stick like that , 3.5k+ stall and a mild gear change should go an 11 on some radials pretty easily.

Last time I took a bike out unpracticed it took me three runs to get in to the 10's on a bike that I decided I had enough after a 9.8 and I was shaking hahaha.

Most amateur drag racers can only manage a mid 10 to low 11 on 600-1000cc bikes in street trim. If you can learn to pedal it and keep up with sports bikes , you most probably be slower on the street with the blower.

I had 280kw in the caprice and on cheapish street tyres with the big stall . If I kept in it I could power skid 2-300m with ease no throttle feathering. Tyres would finally catch up holding third so it didn't try and bang into over drive if overdrive could handle it I have no worries assuming it would have kept going.
 

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I'm to old and slow for focusing on ET, MPH on the other hand takes alot less skill, and is a way better judge of "actual" power

As for a blower, with my little 223 228 114, 2800 stall and a HTV2300 on the old Gen 3, my car has brilliant street manners and is actually more fuel efficient than when it was stock, well around town it's averaging about 350km per tank, hwy is over 600km a tank, it does drink like a fish when your up it though, but that's to be expected, it also has a nice loapy idle

A thing to remember is what you use the car for, if it's a daily or you use it alot, a big lumpy stick can turn it into a pig and you will end up hating on it, for multiple reasons, especially if you get stuck in traffic or your better half drives it sometimes, this is where a blower rules the world, they make smooth effortless power from idle

If, on the other hand it's a club car, drag car or Sunday car then all bets are off, CNC the heads, a monster cam and big stall that shakes rattles and rolls, and makes power up top, IMO nothing in the world sounds as good as a big NA V8 revving it's guts out

I only say this as I've built cars that I daily to the point of hating them as a daily, my current old girl is a VX SS that I got for a cool old daily, and whilst it goes like a raped ape on request, it is a pleasure to drive around town, even when stuck in the M5 tunnel doing 10kph

Have fun with the build, and if you can justify it, trust in the workshop, these are old cars and have been done to death, a good workshop and tuner should be able to give you exactly what you want

MOST IMPORTANTLY: DON'T LISTEN TO ME, I'M AN OVEROPINIONATED ARSEHOLE
 
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