Can of worms

Yup young and ill informed.....I just turned 13 and ive been playing with vb-vk's since
the mid 90's and have had several tough 308's built and have rebuilt a couple myself....just finished my 355 also.

Actually heres some useless info for you..my last 308 which was in my current SLE ran 12.8 in street trim minus spare wheel and jack with ET streets....I could elaborate as to what was to done to the engine but it wouldn't make any difference

Well either their engines are miss matched from the get go with slapped together bottom ends and untouched heads and or either their cars are not set up right.
240rwkw isn't much and would explain the slow ET's.

Clayton on here...just ran mid to low 11's with a carbed 355 in a VN SS that isn't even tuned 100%...that's proof right there....and it has a 10 sec pass up its sleeve with a good tweek here n there.

 

but since when do we build bombed engines to be conservative of fuel consumption and driveability?....sounds like you've got your mind set on the LS

 

if you can't build or get built an 11 second injected 355 with good street manners, then you need to find another builder and/or tuner.....

 

which is???

 

you missed my point then
I'm saying you CAN build a very street friendly injected 355 that will do 11's if you get a decent engine builder and tuner - it can be a very tame engine. No need for a LS engine. Don't believe all the hype about LS engines, granted they are a good engine, but there is so many BS dyno figures out there that never seem to add up when it comes to track times. But seems you've already made up your mind.

 

more than likely not, but you probably aren't going to be much better off with a carbed LS1 either.

 

With 240rwkw not been much, what sort of rwkw figure are you expecting from your 355?

 

ok so are u wanting a streeter or a strip car??

how much of a budget do you have?
Do you have a proposed HP figure you want to achieve?
...I don't think ive read anywhere yet as to what its purpose will be....except killing it at the drags.

I gave you a price of in an earlier post on what "parts only" cost me for my bottom end....you can go cheaper.

I had the complete works done on it.....then it was assembled and cam dialled in, cost just over 2500 from a renowned race engine builder....some say what a rip off...but I say its piece of mind with guaranteed workmanship....why cheap out on your investment and something you plan on throwing money at.....the last thing you want is a hand grenade again
Sure I got quotes from several standard engine rebuilders who rebuild run of the mill clunkers....but half of them send the bottom ends off to be machined and balanced by the race builder I used anyway....

So most shops will supply and fit but you wont have a choice in parts and they'll throw in parts whatever they can get...unless you specify or take in the parts yourself

 

well the heads have had a full port job, bowl work and with oversized valves.
heads flowing 555.3Hp/ 270CFM @ .600 thou lift.
I have full flow sheets if interested

My cam is a solid FT, intake .580 Lift, ext .587 lift
248/252 duration @ 50
And 108 LSA
So with my camshaft is just below the flow bench figures @600 and cam @580 ill be looking at about 520-530HP

11.3:1 comp ratio

Bottom end is zero decked and 30thou over, running a port matched Torque Power single plane manifold and a 750 DP carb.
If I had a complete port job done to the manifold ill make exactly 520-530HP.
As my heads engineer said without the full manifold port job it will dyno around 500hp at the fly give or take.

And has a 4500 converter....not that that is relevant to the engine

So if you subtract driveline loss at the general rule of thumb youll have your RWHP/RWKW figure
Driveline is a TH350, 2 piece shaft and a locked 10 bolt with 3.55 gears

 

id say thats fkn cheap.

 

really...well I guess I don't feel too bad now then haha??

there were a few other things that were added which bumped the price up ie oil pump shaft and geardrive, cam retainer plate and bolt, flex plate and an oiling mod, cam bearings, grinding and polishing out the valley ect.. which took the total to just under 4k but the basic assembled bottom end was 2699 (just checked receipt)

 

whats the go with a carb conversion??
do you still have to retain all those coil packs and stuff?

 

i was ready to drop 5k on my planned 355, but then my impala came along and i lost interest in the VK. although the price of good stroker parts has dropped since then, the machine work alone was gonna be up around the 2k mark. (from memory) 300 for bore resize, 100 for hone, 300 for balancing components (even though the kit was "balanced" it doesnt hurt to do it properley), 300 for zero deck brings it up to 1k, then there was hot tanking, crack testing heads/block, lifter bore hone, align bore, 4 bolt conversion, etc etc.
add 2500 for the kit (at the time thats what they were worth)
add 1500 for supply VN heads, CC'ing, decking and polishing, new valves seats klines etc

THEN add low rise efi mani, haltech, injectors, carb style TB etc etc eeeeeasily busted 6 right there.

OP: why you would take an LS and get rid of its best feature (efi) is beyond me. you take a good engine and just make it annoying for the sake of keeping a carby. if you were to go carby, you'd have to at least keep the coil packs and run a wasted spark haltech or something that you can adjust curves with via an ecu. the whole "shake rattle and roll" of an over-cammed, poorly timed engine suits a cast iron block... NOT an ally LS. IMO it'd just be a bit silly really.


dont get me wrong, i used to be ALLLLLL about carbies (ask some of the older members on here, i used to lecture people all the time about the "cool factor" of carbys) but after fluffy came along and ive started to realise just how awesome EFI can be, i will never go back to a carb unless its on a old school engine.