I can’t see a 240/250 cam in an auto without a stall having stock manners regardless of the tuner, unless you want to be the Guinea Pig and pay a tuner to have your car for a year while they work with it and wear the cost if they fail.
I have a custom grind 230 with a 112 LSA and ported heads in my manual E Series Clubsport and it gets through traffic without any problems but the tune took some time to get right.
You can definitely tell the car is cammed and I couldn’t see it working in an auto without a stall.
The work was done by Sam’s Performance in Sydney.
Id want a cam around 224/232 LSA 113/114 if it was my car as it tried and true and you may not need a stall.
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They’re a big engine - they’ll keep ticking over without much fuss at low rpm with a moderate cam if tuned properly. If the tuner spends the time to get it right, it’ll have a noticeable chop at idle without driveability issues.
It’s a mixture of ignition timing, idle speed, air and fuel delivery adjustments that get it right. One of the things that makes a good difference is changing when the fuel is injected at idle. This has a massive effect on idle quality. E.g. onto the back of a closed valve, open valve etc.
There are calculators tuners can plug cam specs into to figure out the best base point. A tuner that spends only an hour on a cammed ls and takes his $1000 or thereabouts isn’t doing his job properly. Just be careful who you go to and make sure its both dyno and road tuned. Leave the car with them so that they can run it from dead cold and make adjustments accordingly.
Very easy to tell when a tunes been rushed or they’ve spent all their time trying to get good dyno figures
If you’re interested, you can download hptuners for free. Download a Holden ls tune and open it in advanced mode to see what settings are available.