Car amps

I was looking at an alpine amp... I don't need links all I'm asking would a 650 watt or a 1000 watt or a 2000 watt and should it be a digital or not.....

 

You haven't been reading anything. What's 2000watts, 2000 watts of what? 2000 killerwasps? Greater or higher per channel output to that of your speakers rms handling.

 

Thanks anyway mate great help..... Your knowledge is superior than mine... I will find the info I need another way and to the mods this is why this forum is going to ****.... I have been a member of JC for a few years now and I can't remember the last time a question was answered without someone puffing there chest out trying to show they know more than everyone else.... I'm assuming that by the way my post was worded I didn't know what I was talking about I wanted a basic answer and I got jibber... So please ban me or unsubscribe me I have had it

 

DAZ... You need to stop talking in maximum watts. It makes no sense and you can't look at those numbers and choose the correct product to match it as everyone makes up their max wattage numbers differently. You need to tell us what the nominal/RMS/continuous power rating is OR the model numbers and then we can tell you an amp to suit them.

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Since I'm bored at work I looked at the Fusion website. The power plant splits are rated at 120Wrms (280Wmax) and the 2-way coaxials are rated at 110Wrms (240Wmax).

If you want a 4 channel amp you really want something matching or higher so 120Wrms x 4 which are not very common. You might find 150Wrms x 4 but it won't be cheap. This is the dilemma I have at the moment so I'm going to have to get two big 2 channel amps instead of a single 4 channel.

 

Daz, fair go my crap sense of humour my post was mimicking that of a Toyota add...

The forum hasn't gone to sh1t as you put it from smart ass replies and comments, and there's a handful of people on the forum that can give you great advice when it come to audio related topics. Rather people not searching or reading the topics that have all ready been covered.

But the more information you give us, the more we can give you back. So far this thread has covered what types of amplifiers there are, the difference between nominal and peak power, and the sort of problems that can arise when using an amplifier both under and over powered.

Why should we be the ones to bend over backwards every time to drill people with questions when were only to try to get the best outcome for someone else? Along with that most of the time were stuck trying to decipher a bunch of posts with lousy spelling and punctuation?

 

You said in your post above that the sub is a single voice coil. The letters "D4" stand for dual 4 ohm voice coils if i'm not mistaken, and also according to Pioneers website. Is this the subwoofer you have? TS-W307D4 (Archived) - Pioneer Europe

If so, then just about any monoblock will do the job, seeing as you will be able to wire the voice coils in parallel to a 2ohm load to the amp. So what your looking for in a mono block amp will be 400rms or prefferably higher @ 2ohms. You'll get away with spending <$200 if you shop at the right places.

 

Yes it is, but it's an awful lot of money to spend on a sub of that caliber.

 

Thanks stone so if I can find an amp that's 150 x 4 should that cover it ..... Forget what brand or maximum watt.....150 x 4 is the figures I need to look at when buying.... Sorry to steal thread I thought I was asking a simple question...(obviously not) .....I already have a system and have installed the speakers and I'm sure the amp I'm running is crap so trying to work out what to get and really don't know much about this sort of stuff

 

That 2x150 watt amp is Class AB, which run at a lower efficiency than Class D (Monoblock), Regarding the brand, i use their cable wouldn't touch their amps.

Going to ignore your suggestion of 2000rms @ 1 for this user.

Wonderful it does. So your Sub has a RMS rating of 400 Watts. It also is 4 Ohm, and has dual voice coils. What this means is you can decide the load that this sub will present to a amp, in this case its 8 (Voice Coils in Series) or 2 Ohm (Voice Coils in Parallel). Therefore a suitable amp depending on price range are the following:

Pioneer GM-D7500M

Alpine MRX-M50

Kicker ZX400.1

Polk Audio PA 600.1

Option Audio OAK600

They're in no particular order.

Now to pick one... (I'm a polk audio fan, i currently have a option audio amp, and I'm going to replace it with alpine)

Its your choice. As audio is a subjective topic and different users has different goals heres my suggestion. Develop a rapport with a retailer of your choosing that stocks car audio, talk to them about your goals and ask for advice, possible upgrades etc. If you doubt their opinion, shop around or come back to the forums. Now that you know a range of amps that are suitable go and find them on a shelf and ask if you can have a listen.

 

^just wondering, and im not starting an argument here, but whats wrong with Jaycar's Response amps?

i have the 4x100rms 4CH in my ute, 100rms to each set of splits in front (morel maximo 6 - 90rms) and then bridged to put out 350rms to my sub (Polk MM1040 SVC, 350rms)

at $300 for the amp im more than happy with it, in the past 7 months ive had it hasent failed me once, id happily buy one again if i was in the same position or recommend one to someone in the same position

i just wanna hear your opinion as to why you dont suggest them, thats all

 

For a ~450watt class AB amp, its going to make stuff all difference, if your alternator can't power it, then you need a new alternator.
The only issue will be that its bigger.

My comment about needing a 2000watt at 1ohm monoblock, was because Beav said it was a single 4ohm sub, the only way he'd have gotten decent power to it would have been by running a mono that did about 2000 watts at 1ohm.

Nice try, but you fail.

 

They're not in my price bracket.

I believe the quality of components is lower than that of other brands.

They run a higher Signal to Noise Ratio compared to other brands leading me to believe above point.

They don't seem to be a well documented product.

I believe their Rated RMS values are incredibly close to actual RMS values, with a very moderate derate.

There form factor is larger than other brands (like to run a seemingly stock setup, easier to hide)

Most importantly i dont enjoy the sound they produce.

 

If you lessen the effects of your audio system on the stock electrics you will promote the life of them. Pick up efficiency where you can.

Not true, a properly setup 400 watt amp into a 4 ohm sub will provide decent power to this user.

Once again i find my self ignoring parts of your posting, I surely hope it doesn't continue.

 

a monoblock that does 400watts at 1ohm won't do 400watts at 4ohm.

~1200watts at 1ohm would probably give about 400watts at 4ohm.

get it?

 

Beav : get a pioneer 7500m amp , it will match your sub correctly.

Daz : get a pioneer 9500f , 75rms x 4 will run any brand/quality speakers satisfactorily