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if its a single 4ohm coil, I'd get a bigger 2 channel amp to run it, something like the ReSponse 2x150watt from Jaycar.
Otherwise, to get a good amount of power into a single 4ohm sub will require a monoblock that does something like 2000watts at 1ohm.
Ok I pulled the sub out of the box to get some details. On the bottom of the subwoofer is what a presume to be a product number which is TS-W307D4
Also has 1200 W MAX
400 W NOM
Hope this helps
That 2x150 watt amp is Class AB, which run at a lower efficiency than Class D (Monoblock), Regarding the brand, i use their cable wouldn't touch their amps.
Going to ignore your suggestion of 2000rms @ 1 for this user.
^just wondering, and im not starting an argument here, but whats wrong with Jaycar's Response amps?
i have the 4x100rms 4CH in my ute, 100rms to each set of splits in front (morel maximo 6 - 90rms) and then bridged to put out 350rms to my sub (Polk MM1040 SVC, 350rms)
at $300 for the amp im more than happy with it, in the past 7 months ive had it hasent failed me once, id happily buy one again if i was in the same position or recommend one to someone in the same position
i just wanna hear your opinion as to why you dont suggest them, thats all
For a ~450watt class AB amp, its going to make stuff all difference, if your alternator can't power it, then you need a new alternator.
The only issue will be that its bigger.
My comment about needing a 2000watt at 1ohm monoblock, was because Beav said it was a single 4ohm sub, the only way he'd have gotten decent power to it would have been by running a mono that did about 2000 watts at 1ohm.
Nice try, but you fail.
If you lessen the effects of your audio system on the stock electrics you will promote the life of them. Pick up efficiency where you can.
Not true, a properly setup 400 watt amp into a 4 ohm sub will provide decent power to this user.
Once again i find my self ignoring parts of your posting, I surely hope it doesn't continue.