S/K Commodore
Member
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2020
- Messages
- 102
- Reaction score
- 14
- Points
- 18
- Age
- 32
- Location
- Bendigo
- Members Ride
- VT executive S2 9c1
Hey guys,
Have a voltage drop question due to a minor drop I would think.
I will start with the system I am running and the equipment I have, then onto the problem I’m dealing with.
BTW the car is a S2 VT V6 sedan
Equipment/accessories-
Dual 12” kicker compR subs in ported box (500wrms each- 1000wrms total) @2ohms.
Kicker cxa 1200.1 two channel 1200wrms @2ohms mono block amp.
Front P16-S (6” Rockfords with splits) 60wrms @4ohms (Components).
Rear P16 (6” Rockfords) (Coaxial) 60wrms @4ohms.
Pioneer GMA6704 1000watt 4 Channel amp at 60wrms per channel.
Power-
Front is 120amp alternator (brand new).
Yellow top battery (6 months old), have had both tested and in good working condition.
Big 4 upgrade using 0AWG copper.
Main power 0AWG copper.
Power from distribution block to both amp is 4 AWG copper.
2 main earths from chassis to distribution block 0AWG copper.
Earths from distribution block to both amps is 4 AWG copper.
In the car I have 3 LED volt meters set up,
1 is for the battery on 24/7 and the other 2 are for the amps, (1 each) that are wired to the remote on each amp.
Problem-
I been dealing with a volt drop for months now but have been getting there slowly even tho I have gone through like 6 sets of from speakers.
When car is off, battery voltage is about 12.6.
When I turn the car on, battery volts sit around 14.4-14.6 and the amps meters sit around 14.1-14.3,(no music).
Then I crank the music with bass, battery volts remain around the same sometimes down a little bit no lower than 14.2-14.3 and the amps meters will hang between 13.7-14.1. (That’s driving).
Come to a stop at lights or something with heavy bass, all 3 volt meters, so battery and amps will drop to around 12.5-12.8 or 12.9v and that’s with music right up, at idle.
But then I start driving again, they come right up again.
Now not sure if that’s normal/ok or not, but need peoples thoughts.
So far people say it’s fine as long as they stay above 12.4v, others say second battery and others also say capacitor.
Now I hear secondary battery is good due to holding more power, But really only designed for sound comps or when listening 2 music with car off as it holds more current and releases it slowly.
Where a capacitor is either useless,
but also good as they store extra current, due to sitting close to the amp so they allow a better and smoother current to the amp.
They provide extra power to amps when sudden bass hit so feeding the amp with that bit of extra current, but I really don’t know, I have the time and knowledge to do what is needed but not the funds to keep buying and trying till I get it so I would rather do 1 thing to fix problem maybe 2 depending on what funds is like.
Any help or opinions on either a secondary or a capacitor or anything that would help would be much appreciated. I would love people thoughts from personal experiences and have seen. Even if it’s not the same set-up but close to the same size set-up in rms and power supply.
Thank you.
Have a voltage drop question due to a minor drop I would think.
I will start with the system I am running and the equipment I have, then onto the problem I’m dealing with.
BTW the car is a S2 VT V6 sedan
Equipment/accessories-
Dual 12” kicker compR subs in ported box (500wrms each- 1000wrms total) @2ohms.
Kicker cxa 1200.1 two channel 1200wrms @2ohms mono block amp.
Front P16-S (6” Rockfords with splits) 60wrms @4ohms (Components).
Rear P16 (6” Rockfords) (Coaxial) 60wrms @4ohms.
Pioneer GMA6704 1000watt 4 Channel amp at 60wrms per channel.
Power-
Front is 120amp alternator (brand new).
Yellow top battery (6 months old), have had both tested and in good working condition.
Big 4 upgrade using 0AWG copper.
Main power 0AWG copper.
Power from distribution block to both amp is 4 AWG copper.
2 main earths from chassis to distribution block 0AWG copper.
Earths from distribution block to both amps is 4 AWG copper.
In the car I have 3 LED volt meters set up,
1 is for the battery on 24/7 and the other 2 are for the amps, (1 each) that are wired to the remote on each amp.
Problem-
I been dealing with a volt drop for months now but have been getting there slowly even tho I have gone through like 6 sets of from speakers.
When car is off, battery voltage is about 12.6.
When I turn the car on, battery volts sit around 14.4-14.6 and the amps meters sit around 14.1-14.3,(no music).
Then I crank the music with bass, battery volts remain around the same sometimes down a little bit no lower than 14.2-14.3 and the amps meters will hang between 13.7-14.1. (That’s driving).
Come to a stop at lights or something with heavy bass, all 3 volt meters, so battery and amps will drop to around 12.5-12.8 or 12.9v and that’s with music right up, at idle.
But then I start driving again, they come right up again.
Now not sure if that’s normal/ok or not, but need peoples thoughts.
So far people say it’s fine as long as they stay above 12.4v, others say second battery and others also say capacitor.
Now I hear secondary battery is good due to holding more power, But really only designed for sound comps or when listening 2 music with car off as it holds more current and releases it slowly.
Where a capacitor is either useless,
but also good as they store extra current, due to sitting close to the amp so they allow a better and smoother current to the amp.
They provide extra power to amps when sudden bass hit so feeding the amp with that bit of extra current, but I really don’t know, I have the time and knowledge to do what is needed but not the funds to keep buying and trying till I get it so I would rather do 1 thing to fix problem maybe 2 depending on what funds is like.
Any help or opinions on either a secondary or a capacitor or anything that would help would be much appreciated. I would love people thoughts from personal experiences and have seen. Even if it’s not the same set-up but close to the same size set-up in rms and power supply.
Thank you.