Car is stuck in limp mode

[Zack Riley]

You can scan for codes with a paper clip AFAIK.

12,13,14,23,24 and 31. Are what I get.

 

[chrisp]

12,13,14,23,24 and 31. Are what I get.

With the VL, you have the activate some of the sensors to clear the codes. Errors are what’s left after that.

From a very distant memory, it was turn the screw (potentiometer) fully to the diagnostic position, move the gear level between a gear and neutral (clears the neutral switch code), switch the air con off and on (clear the air con code), push the accelerator (clear the throttle position code). You have to start the engine and drive the car to clear some of the other codes (speed sensor, air flow sensor, crank angle sensor, temperature?). After that you should be left with 44. Any codes that remain after activating that sensor are the ones that need to be checked.

After that, the screw (potentiometer) is turned back to the ‘mixture‘ position (where the two lights should flash together to indicate lambda mixture) or backed off a little to increase the idle speed.

 

[Fachoo]

12,13,14,23,24 and 31. Are what I get.

Code 11 - Crank Angle Sensor circuit
Code 12 - Air flow Meter circuit
Code 13 - Coolant Temp Sensor circuit
Code 14 - Vehicle Speed Sensor circuit
Code 21 - Ignition Signal circuit
Code 23 - Throttle Switch circuit
Code 24 - Neutral Start Switch circuit
Code 31 - System Pass (OK) (Non A/C)
Code 32 - Starter Signal circuit
Code 34 - Knock Sensor circuit (Turbo)
Code 44 - System Pass (OK) (A/C models)

 

[woteva]

No need to drop the tank to check or replace fuel pump as the main fuel pump is external mounted just in front of the tank.
The low pressure pump in the tank can be checked by removing the fuel sender plate.

The LED flashes in the ECU aren't fault codes but more like status messages.

 

[trel]

RB25 if afm is disconnected or signal wrong will limp, not go past 2k. Check afm and wiring, connections first. Try spraying some afm cleaner first. Replace with known working. Check voltage is within spec. Common on RBs even the ole dirty 30.

 

[gtrboyy]

Clear codes & go again..wouldn't be surprised if disconnected afm set all codes off.

 

[Zack Riley]

No need to drop the tank to check or replace fuel pump as the main fuel pump is external mounted just in front of the tank.
The low pressure pump in the tank can be checked by removing the fuel sender plate.

The LED flashes in the ECU aren't fault codes but more like status messages.

Thanks for that, I have ordered both.
Its actually looking like this could be the main problem. Can't hurt to swap both pumps out. but if its the internal one I may leave it for now.

 

[woteva]

Thanks for that, I have ordered both.
Its actually looking like this could be the main problem. Can't hurt to swap both pumps out. but if its the internal one I may leave it for now.

The tank can be drained by removing the lowest bolt on the fuel sender plate and have a container with a funnel or tray underneath.
Also do the fuel filter while you are in that area.

 

[Zack Riley]

Have swapped out the high pressure pump, took it for a squirt. Still doing it. I still have 3/4 of a tank so I'm going to wait until it's a little lower first before I do the other one.

 

[trel]

Have you done checks on the afm first ?