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car keeps stalling when put into drive

lee.vracclaim

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i own a 94 vr v6 acclaim auto. lately its been surging for fuel and dropping the revs almost to stall when i get up to 80-100kph, i put it in 3rd and it drives fine. it did that for 2 days then it came good. now its getting worse. it keeps stalling more and getting undriveable. it revs fine in neutral and park but under load it idols good then cuts out and stalls. its done this on and off for 3 weeks. also it stalls sometimes in the wet. i dont get it why dose it drive fine one day then plays up the next. the mechanic couldnt find anything wrong with it as it decided to run good for him. i need help please.
 
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magnumv8

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Check all air intake pipes-could be a air leak.
Might also be a fuel issue where possibly air is entering the line between the tank and the injectors-worth a look.

I had similar problems with a couple of my cars-mazda 626 was a cracked air intake pipe between air flow meter and throttle body-it was most noticeable when in reverse.
Fuel line prob was in my wb-the pipes coming out the top of the fuel tank were letting air into the system-mainly noticable when giving it some.
 

Wozza

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Hi
These sort of issues can be a pig to diagnose...as it could be one of many different things.
start of with checking the error codes, if clean do a pooter reset
As it appears to be braking down under load Id be looking at coil packs, leads, plugs first..replace one of the items or simply close the plug gaps a little if it improves/changes the issue then that's where you start to spend the $$$
if still no luck start looking at the fuel system simple things like injector cleaner..fill up at a different gas station with higher octane fuel (try bp ultimate) and see if the issue happens when the car is full as opposed to near empty... what your looking for is something that changes (for better or worse) the issue....
 

Pollushon

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I'd first be ripping off the throttle body and looking at the IAC/TPS. Your issues seem to be potentially around that.

At idle the IAC is what prevents stall when you drop it into gear, the ECU should accommodate by reading the TPS vs. revs and speed and opening the IAC up more. When in od around 100, you'll find your flicking between throttle open and closed, therefore the IAC comes into play. Drop into third and you'll need the throttle open more and probably constantly, so the IAC is out of the picture .

As mentioned above this can also be intake vacuum leaks, but if it were me if pull off the throttle body and give it all a spit polish (it may be full of black gunk, affecting the IAC's ability to flow), then multimeter the TPS. Falling that look for leaks.
 

lee.vracclaim

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Hi
These sort of issues can be a pig to diagnose...as it could be one of many different things.
start of with checking the error codes, if clean do a pooter reset
As it appears to be braking down under load Id be looking at coil packs, leads, plugs first..replace one of the items or simply close the plug gaps a little if it improves/changes the issue then that's where you start to spend the $$$
if still no luck start looking at the fuel system simple things like injector cleaner..fill up at a different gas station with higher octane fuel (try bp ultimate) and see if the issue happens when the car is full as opposed to near empty... what your looking for is something that changes (for better or worse) the issue....[/QU


its completly shagged now. it wont even idol in gear. ive changed fule BP Ultimate. still stalls. the issue started while the tank was full, i thought it was dodgy fule
but mistaken as ive had 3 tanks through it and it runs good then bad. my mate is changing the crank angle sensor during the week for me. ill start there. if its going to cost too much money ill look at getting a newer car after tax time
 

Frenzal

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I had very similar problems with my VR. Occasionally it would just lose power while driving, wouldn't rev above 1500 and felt like someone was lightly tapping the throttle. Turned the car off and started again and it would come good. It had this problem for a fairly long time until it got progressively worse, the engine would shut down completely while driving. On startup it would splutter and backfire and felt like it was runing on two cylinders. Eventually one morning the car wouldn't even start. The fuel pump wasn't priming but it was getting a signal through. Swapped out the pump and it's been right ever since. Might not be the problem you're having but certainly food for thought.
 

James39

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its completly shagged now. it wont even idol in gear. ive changed fule BP Ultimate. still stalls. the issue started while the tank was full, i thought it was dodgy fule
but mistaken as ive had 3 tanks through it and it runs good then bad. my mate is changing the crank angle sensor during the week for me. ill start there. if its going to cost too much money ill look at getting a newer car after tax time

Clean the IAC or replace if need be, check the TPS and fuel pump and fuel regulator. You may even have error codes so check for errors (After all that what it is there for)
 

cruzn

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Had a similar problem with my VR. Turned out to be the fuel pump.
 

A.C.COOKIE

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Had very much the same issue there was no logged codes and as a few people on here have already said IAC that is where my problem was
and after cleaning down the IAC and the throttle body it ran and still runs like a dream and the most costly part was the carby cleaner I used.

If your cas has gone it will leave a code 9time out of 10 and if done wrong has to be done again as mentioned do the Idle Air Control Valve as this
will more than likely be the problem
 

Robbie Waters

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pretty new to this group but here goes. I have a 1996 vs Commodore, bought it about 6 months ago. Since then I’ve had a billion issues with it and have spent a truck load of money fixing it. So far I’ve replaced a list of things.

9mm leads

plugs “Bosch platinum iridium”

air filter

fuel pump

IAC valve

Throttle body

starter motor

fuel filter

Mace engineering water pump

inlet manifold gaskets

2/12 exhaust + pacemaker extractors

oil+filter

diff oil

front brake pads

Plenum spacer

82c thermostat

Re built power steering pump

Steering Rack

Fuel tank (second hand) last one was caked with rust due to it being on gas

Transmission (second hand) 126xxks Also freshly serviced

Mace engineering performance chip

Vy injectors

Coil pack & dfi module

After all of the bull***t I’m still having issues.

Car stalls or almost stalls when I put it into drive or reverse and let’s say I decide to put my foot down around a corner and the car was to slide a little it decides to die aswell. Only making a right turn not a lefty.
I’ve changed the whole fuel tank and fuel pump. And yes the return line is connected, I originally changed the fuel tank because the old one was rooted and return line was absolutely f****d

Someone. anyone, please help me!!
 
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