central locking installation

[85berlina]

The interior light thing is actually for where the door trigger connects to. The interior light thing does apply. This is because the door trigger on the alarm connects to the door switches and the door switches connect to the interior light. Its not the interior light that matters, its the switches they are conencted to, the interior light was brought up before so don't get confused. Just connect to the door trigger to the back of one door switch.

With the indicator lights, the trigger wires just need to connect anywhere after the indicator switch. Where to connect to after the switch totally depends on where the alarm module is located. In a 1998 corolla I did an installation in, I mounted the module behind the drivers side kickpanel right next to the drivers right hand foot. In this case I connected the wires directly after the switch in the steering column. In my car, the module is mounted behind the passengers side kick panel. In a VK (Unsure about a VH) the main wiring loom passes through the firewall on the passengers side so the wires for the indicators pass through that loom. So this is the closest place and I made the connection here.

Imobilisation points are places where the relay immobilises a certain system by breaking the power input into the device. In my VK, which is a stock standard berlina with a carby and the computer has been removed, I can only immobilise the ignition and the starter motor. If you have an electric fuel pump, then that can be immobilsed or any ECUs if they have a disable wire (Be careful with ECUs).
You do literally cut the wire and put the relay in place. Don't ever cut the ground wire and immobilise that because then you will get wierd ground loops etc. Always cut the 12v input to the device. Remember that a relay is actually a switch so it is switching the device off to imobilise it.

With the siren, a fuse isn't necessary but if you have one in and it doesn't blow when the siren is on, it will still function fine. However, it is a backup battery siren that you have. This is the better type of siren to have because with the standard sirens, a thief just has to open the bonnet and cut the wires. If they do this with your siren, it will sound. It sounds when triggered from the alarm or when 12v power is removed. So, if the fuse blows, it will diconnect power from the siren and the siren will sound. You will have to pop the bonnet and put the key in the back of the siren and turn it off. This would happen at the most inconveniant time of course such as 1 in the morning.

 

[85berlina]

Yeah I might have seen you.

I am a casual, as I am studying at year 12, and I work weekends. If you have seen me, I am the guy with red hair.

Of course next year when I leave and get an electrical apprenticeship somewhere like Hannanprint, Quenos or Energy Australia then I'm out of Jaycar.

 

[yobbo88]

yeah definately seen you i was in the other day talkin to one of the older guys about speaker pods and bought a multimeter... there is a damn good chance you wont remember this and i understand i work at retravision around the corner full time and see so many faces its all a blur. and yeah to clarify my understanding when i say interior light im referring to the circuit that the interior light is on... to stop thieves getting to your siren in the first place put a switch on the hood so when it opens off the alarm goes... ive already caught 1 guy opening my hood and was so happy i went to the effort. my remote goes off when the alarm goes off. needless to say the man wasnt a happy camper when me and 4 other guys came out to greet him

 

[bigg_vin]

ok, thanks for that.

now, one last question..... i hope!

i need to run the door trigger, and bonnet trigger, and boot trigger, to the alarm module.

which wire from the alarm module do i use for this?

ans the wire coming out of the alarm module saying ACC, im guessing has to go to ignition power? why?

thats two questions already.

lets go for a third....
why do i only need to connect the door trigger to one door? and not all four?
thanks again

 

[85berlina]

Connect the door, bonnet and boot trigger to the wire labelled 'to negative trigger(door)' in the manual.
You only need to conect it to one door switch because the four door switches are all connected together so connecting the trigger to one switch is the same as connecting it to all four. You of course need to connect this trigger wire to the boot light switch and the bonnet switch. This is because they aren't connected to the same circuit as the door switches. You also need to install the bonnet switch which comes with the alarm package.

The ACC trigger is supposed to connect to a 12v source that is at 12v when the ignition is on. This 12v source MUST not drop down to zero volts when the engine cranks. This is very important to do because the alarm will not unimmobilise the car even when the alarm is deactivated until it senses that you want to turn it on.

Also, Yobbo88, don't forget to say Hi when you are in next.

 

[bigg_vin]

well you just saved my arse..... i thought the negative door trigger went to the central locking module..... to lock and unlock the doors.....

what goes to the central locking module then?

 

[85berlina]

In the installation manual there are 6 wires that are labelled 'wires to central lock system'.
If you then turn to page 5 there are the wiring set ups for various types of central locking systems.
You said that your system is negatively triggered so you would hook it up from fig 2. I have the same set up because I have Jaycar central locking installed and it is negatively triggered.
If the doors lock when the alarm is disarmed and unlock when the alarm is armed, then the two trigger wires (White and White/Black) need to be swapped around.

 

[bigg_vin]

you are a gun, thanks mate

 

[bigg_vin]

while ive got you guys being so helpful, i might ask a couple more questions if thats ok...

i am still a little confused about the immobilizer relay. now, i obviously dont put the relay in the wire coming from the battery correct?
i need to get to which wires on the starter?

where do you guys suggest i get the ACC 12v from? is the iginition 12v behind the head set going to work?

also, i am installing a trunk release motor. that i also bought from JayCar. just wondering how i am meant to get the wire coming from the solenoid to open the trunk lock. the only moving part that i can get to in the truck lock is the metal rod that has to twist, ie when the key gets turned. any ideas?

thanks

 

[85berlina]

The relay is acting as a switch, so if you were immobilising your starter motor, you would use the relay to switch the wire going to the starter motor solonoid, this is because the relays are only rated at 30 amps so you can't put it on the main feed to the starter motor.
With an electric fuel pump, you would switch the main power going to the pump.
With ignition, use the relay to switch the positve line to the coil.

With the ACC, the one behind the head unit probably won't suffice because it probably falls to 0v when the engine cranks. I normally wire it to an appropriate wire coming from the key switch inside the column. Use a multimeter.

I'll get back to you about the trunk opener.