changing the crank angle sensor

[troykinsvt]

can someone do a how to on changing the crank angle sensor ?
i cant find it to change so im resorting to someones help.
i found the cam sensor at the front of the engine but the other part NO LUCK
yes ive searched it but with hundreds of threads .....yeh you get it

vt ecotec is my engine sorry
been stalling at idle so time to change things as its just hit 180xxx ks

 

[Brett_jjj]

The harmonic balancer has to be removed before you can access the CAS. To remove the balancer you will need a 3 bolt type harmonic balancer puller.

 

[troykinsvt]

ohhh, dammit.

 

[Brett_jjj]

If you want to do it yourself and save some cash, a harmonic balancer puller kit costs about $30 from supercheap etc, they come with bolts, but these sometimes wont fit the commodore balancer, and you just need to go to a hardware store or bunnings etc and get three 1/4 UNF type bolts,about 2 -2 1/2 inches long.These bolts will screw into the slots located around the balancer allowing you to remove it without damaging it using the puller.

 

[acarmody]

So whats the best way to get that nut off? Is the ol' metal bar across the rails still the best? And would a normal 1/2" socket bar with maybe an impact socket, and a metal tube to extend it, be strong enough? Or should I just get a 3mm thick length of steel and weld a impact socket piece to it?

 

[wraith]

Easiest way I found was the metal bar across the rails quick couple of clicks and done just make sure you disconnect the fuel pump or it will get messy. The proper way is with a long extension and some elbow grease.

 

[acarmody]

Easiest way I found was the metal bar across the rails quick couple of clicks and done just make sure you disconnect the fuel pump or it will get messy. The proper way is with a long extension and some elbow grease.

Any idea what sort of torque a rattle gun would need to get it undone?

 

[Cheap6]

So whats the best way to get that nut off? Is the ol' metal bar across the rails still the best? And would a normal 1/2" socket bar with maybe an impact socket, and a metal tube to extend it, be strong enough? Or should I just get a 3mm thick length of steel and weld a impact socket piece to it?

Unless someone else has overtightened it, you can undo it with a 1/2" socket and breaker bar. Undoing the bolt is the easy part; you also have to do it back up.

Any idea what sort of torque a rattle gun would need to get it undone?

270-325Nm is the tightening torque. Undoing it will require similar.

Few people have a torque wrench (that reads that high). Marking the bolt relative to the balancer before undoing it will at least allow you to get back to where you started from.

You will need to hold the engine to allow retensioning the bolt. I have posted on here previously with images of a couple of tools that allow using the slots in the front of the balancer to hold the engine against the chassis rail - which is why the slots are present. You don't have to get too elaborate. A couple of bolts, nuts, drill, steel plate and 20 min. should be enough.

Some people use an old drive belt looped around to lock the engine (you would have to search the forum for how to do that).

You need to clean and reseal the keyway on the crank nose to the balancer with RTV sealant.

 

[accentstencil]

I recently help my son in law change his and the rattle gun would not undo it. We used the method described by wraith in reply 6 and it came undone very easily but as stated, remove the fuel pump fuse first.