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changing link pin bushes!

M

mrVT

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Hey guys after driving acouple of weeks with a clunking and jiggling noise have found out the one of the rubbers of the link pin bush were gone i assume it cracked completely off anyway went to holden and got a kit which had the rod washers and rubbers for $33 so i decided to do the job myself as it doesnt look like a big job so i took wheel off and unbolted the top and bottom of rod and pulled it off as i did this the metal bar springed up and is very poerfull to pull it back down so i got another jack with a block of wood and jacked the disk with the shock obserber up this bade the bar go down so i put the new rod back on is this the right way to do it????
 

VT97

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I had the same problem with removing the old link pin and fitting the new one, if you losen the nuts on the stabilzer bar you can get more slack, with a bit of pushing and pulling the link pin will eventually go in.

dont forget to tighten the stabilizer nuts afterwards, and check the links after a few days of driving to see if they are stll seated correctly and the nuts are still tight.
 

GAMBLR

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Hey guys after driving acouple of weeks with a clunking and jiggling noise have found out the one of the rubbers of the link pin bush were gone i assume it cracked completely off anyway went to holden and got a kit which had the rod washers and rubbers for $33 so i decided to do the job myself as it doesnt look like a big job so i took wheel off and unbolted the top and bottom of rod and pulled it off as i did this the metal bar springed up and is very poerfull to pull it back down so i got another jack with a block of wood and jacked the disk with the shock obserber up this bade the bar go down so i put the new rod back on is this the right way to do it????
bit hard to decipher mate, may i (nicely) suggest some punctuation for the future ;)
the bar you are reffering to, im assuming is the sway bar and the rod connects the swaybar to the rear of the strut. and the 'disc' is the brake disc, yes?
If so, by the sounds of it you have already done it, and i cant see too many dramas with doing it that way. Another way to do it is to follow VT97's method, and loosen the nuts that hold the swaybar in place. easy job if there's more than one person. another method is using a large pry-bar and forcing a larger gapp between the strut and swaybar to get the rod in position. Take care with this method, or you could cause serious injury or damage. This is only a suggestion and i won't take responsibility for anything resulting from it.

and as VT97 said, drive it for a week or so and double check everything is tight and still in place. If you can, include some higher speeds and slightly rougher roads to test if it is tight enough.

Hope this helps
CC
 

drift-it

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also you can loosen both sides at the same time! replace one side and leave loose. then replace the other side and the tighten both sides! thats how i did my VT.

i replaced a set on a VS once... word of warning... dont get your fingers stuck between the shockie and the link pin!!!
 

John Dillon

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Just a note for anyone doing these. If you get the Z or S shaped heavy duty types , they are 5mm shorter and are very easy to put in. Just turn wheels towards the relevant side and in they go.
 

Holdens Rule

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Was going to mention the Z ones. I put a set of vt ones in my car myslef and they lasted a month, after talking to my mechanic he advised me the standard VT ones are crap and to go the z ones (which he did for me) or a VX sway bar.
 
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