chasing 375kw on my ls2

Manual or auto? Any current mods like otr/extractors/tune/exhaust? These mods will put a dent in budget,with right parts even stock ls2 will rip well
Can you do the work or all paid labour?

Quite like the vz ls2/4l65(?) setups but need not to get caught up in dyno figures but moreso suitable combination of parts so car drives like you wanted.

CHE did fair bit of dyno testing & drag racing with good results for customers with modded ls2 cammed cars a few years ago...think they developed a similar cam with better results for ve-vf 6l with stock stally/diff gears,good power & drivability.

Do a google search dyno graphs,forum threads or yt clips may still pop up.

 

Extractors, 2 1/2 exhaust, otrcai, tune. An earlier ve auto that I owned with those mods put out about 344 fwkw. The ls2 should get about 10 kw less due to the ve's better cylinder heads. Talk to a cam maker about what you are after. Alternatively have a look at the range that they offer. Don't go to big or you could wind up with something that's a pig to drive. Forged pistons for that setup are an overkill, don't waste your money.
Alternatively forget about the cam and go with the extractors, exhaust, otrcai and tune. The power increase is quite significant and will be smoother to drive with better economy. On the drag strip my ve did the 1/4 in 13.5 and that was taking off from idle.

 

"Future supercharger"?
Forged pistons just came back in to the equation.

 

Toss the cathedral port heads for the later heads off a Holden 6lt L98, L76, L77 (the ones without DOD, I can’t remember now which they were)

 

Honest freshen the bottom end inc all new cam bearings etc as above l98 heads with a small port and shave for better comp.

Being a auto smallish cam and small hi stall say 2500 and your done and your 10k is done.

 

I think you need to sit back and ask yourself what you really want and why. If you do decide to go ahead with the modifications suggested had you given any thought to improved braking and handling? The vz r8 came out with 4 pot callipers, they would be a bolt on and far superior to your current set up especially with ceramic pads.

 

^ this ^

Not surprised you’re being quoted for forged pistons if you mention supercharging to an engine builder. They may simply be trying to help you to prepare the block for future supercharging and reduce having to pull the engine out and work on the block twice.

 

there are different types of alloy used in forged pistons so if ur not going all out just stick with the 4032 alloy as they will seal better for cold starts and be better for daylie, if ur pushing 15+psi and decent rpm and want to give it hell u then go to the 2618 alloy, bottom end can easily be some forged pistons and keep stock crank and maby do rods then all machining and bearings and its good to go, im doing an all out LS2 boost build at the moment and didnt want to ever worry about strength and i can tell u its not cheap, if u go boost and u are going to build engine then u have to make clearances to suit which u dont need as much if ur staying n/a so u have to look at ur end goal and suit it to that, also keep stock heads for boost if ur not going all out they will be fine then u have to think fuel system to support power goal also

 

gilmer drive on an LS is alot of coin just for a whine, u have to replace all pulleys to suit and there are no gains in power at all, depending on brands u could prob spend a couple thousand easy

 

I think your biggest dilemma is putting a kw figure you want to achieve.
If you can forget about that you can build a fun and tidy car that you will enjoy.

For driveability a smaller cam, an exhaust, tune and the likes (so nothing too out there) would most likely make you happy.
Make it sound nice, make it have a bit of go and you're all set.
But add the tightening up for handling and better braking and it'll be an all round nice driver.

Personally, I do have a Supercharged LS2 (2.9L whipple). It has a big cam and a few other things to suit.
Its loud, its obnoxious and its not the nicest to drive unless you can properly cruise along (clutch leg can get a work out)
For as much as the power is nice to have, you will worry about breaking parts.
You will be hassled by morons who want to race you, or drag you from the lights.
While the whine is nice, it comes at a cost, one which if you haven't driven such before is not fun.

 

I have had 4 pot callipers on the front and rear of a vt clubsport that are now on my vh. I put brembos on the front and back of a ve ss ute I once owned. They came standard on a previously owned vz r8. The ve redline I now own has them standard on the front however I have brembos yet to be fitted on the rear. Putting ceramic pads on does make a difference. At no stage ever were these brakes not good enough. 4 pot callipers will be plenty good enough for you until you go serious racing on the track and even then you have the option of racing pads. Have a look at what someone like Whiteline put out suspension wise, they should have you pretty much covered.
However it is what you plan to do with the car should be the deciding factor on what you do with the brakes and suspension. You might find an upgrade to ceramic pads might be enough, they certainly make a difference. The vz's handle reasonably well standard as long as all the suspension parts are in good order.

 

Going from stocker to otr/extractors/cats/exhaust/tune/diff gears would a big jump up performance if it's your first v8....you'll want to drive it everyday.

cam/heads/stally/gears will be more than enough for a weekender & do 11's (both kinds)

If serious with coin go visit CHE or Russo's for proper chat but you'll need to be clear on budget & expectations.

 

if u just want to rebuild it go a 383~ stroker it will give u better torque and stay reliable (cubes getting towards 400+ with 4" bore will shorten longevity but builders usually dont tell u that) or if its just a weekender go 402ci and get more torque, then just a good street cam to suit and should be right to go, would be in the 10k+ area tho depending on parts u want to use and all the machining/fitting/tuning ect

 

Vz is good starting point with ls2 & yeah it's possible to make that power although end result may not drive all that nice on 10k budget.

vcm otr $450-$550 (mace seem to cheapest)
pacemakers $680 for tri-y $895 for 1/34 or 1 7/8 (bestmufflers.com)
100-200 cell cats $400-$500 easy
x-force or redback 2.5" $500 3" stainless x-forcs $650-$900 with varex
n/a stocker tune $900'ish from decent workshop
diff gears $1k

4-5k up there if you chase up new parts then add labour

cam/springs/lifters + other stuff car may need could eat up the rest of the money...guess that's anywhere from 270-290rwkw.It may not seem much on a dyno graph or fb post but when done right & usable it'll more than enough for grandpa street driving.


Blower kit like whipple be $10-12k for kit then add ons + labour


Most are content to stay n/a with otr/tune/full exhaust & diff gears after they tall it all up lol

 

i took my VF in for full exhaust, OTR and tune. the transformation was more than enough for me and I had plenty of change out of $10k.

I vote for this route OP, i think you'll be surprised.