Check Powertrain

[Skylarking]

@Kylieg84 heres a link that may be of interest..

Avoiding car repair scams

If something sounds odd, as a general rule, i'd ask for a written quote as proof of an a mechanics misleading representations.
The written quote should list the problems/fault codes and the work needed to resolve them.

Dealers generally don't have an issue providing a written quote (since you have to pay for the diagnosis).
Many good 3rd party mechanics do also provide repair quotes.
Sadly the dodgier the 3rd party mechanic, the less inclined they are to provide a quote.
I'd also ask for all the replaced parts to be returned to you.

That way when you've realised you've been cheated, you may have recourse through VCAT (CAV can help you with teh process).
Or atleast you'll have that elusive "Mobility Fuel Engager" that you can mount on the wall or your garage

As to cleaning O2 sensors, i've read it's not recommended procedure. Some chemicals can damage the zirconium dioxide material within the o2 sensor. Best approach is to test their operation and repalce if not functioning within parameters. With a good sensor, you should see 0.1 to 0.9V swing every second or two. Likely your idle issues were resolved by changing the throttle body as the old one was clagged up or their was an air leak that was resolved dueing teh replacement

In any case, its great that you sorted things out and didnt have to pay the $1500 to a possble crook.

 

[gungazza]

02 sensors not that dear new

 

[Big Red VF-SII Go-kart]

I am inclined to think the problem has been misquoted in the introduction, and more likelyt to be the P1632 error, not 02 sensor. This immobiliser-related glitch It may or may not throw up powertrain warning (but it will log an error code). The Immobiliser Fuel Disable Signal Received response and indicates the immobiliser has not fully released and is choking the engine of fuel around 70km/h; any attempt to exceed that will throw it into limp mode. It is a common fault in ex-services VZ cars where there has been 'tapping' into electronics to fit accessory equipment (radios, transponders, traps, lights, etc.). In other cars, it can be traced to poor contact between the nib on the key remote and the stainless steel ring on the ignition barrel: clean both thoroughly, as poor contact here can cause problems with disgengagement of the immobiliser. The quote of $1500 is, frankly, bloody ridiculous. As far as is known in my case, having tolerated it for a good 9 years of otherwise troublefree driving of a VZ Executive wagon, it cannot be cured, certainly not by removing or changing the immobiliser. First step: a scanner should be connected to the OBD and any codes read off and proceed to clear them.

 

[HSV126]

Mobility Fuel Engager?

on the flux capacitor duhh