Cleaning and protecting leather interior

[Robbo VS3]

I bought some ArmorAll leather wipes the other day and they did a decent job of making the leather look nice.

 

[VTSSLS1]

I understand these leathers have a coating over the top, but if that's the case though, why do the leather conditioners make such a huge difference? My rear seat for example was far softer, 'richer' feeling and the colour was deeper after the second application of the conditioner, and it had not been sat in since I bought the car, and it was dry and hard as hell then.

 

[ChRiDDa]

Lexol - 2 stage process - cleaner and then conditioner

Used it on multiple cars - works a treat

 

[dgp]

This is what I have been using for a few years, works a treat.

 

[TinSnips]

I understand these leathers have a coating over the top, but if that's the case though, why do the leather conditioners make such a huge difference? My rear seat for example was far softer, 'richer' feeling and the colour was deeper after the second application of the conditioner, and it had not been sat in since I bought the car, and it was dry and hard as hell then.

Most of the time, the reason for a modern leather going "cardboardy" or crunchy is simply because of the layer of grime that has built up on the surface. 99 times out of 100 you'll get the same softening result from just giving them a really good clean. IF the conditioner is actually having some effect on the softness of the leather, it's likely that the clear has been compromised and the leather has had a chance to dry out. However, if this is the case, a simple wipe on/wipe off conditioner is not overly likely to go very far towards hydrating it. That's where the leatherique system comes into play - it's a two part process where you start with a nourishing oil, followed by a cleaner - the reverse of the normal concept of clean/condition. It conditions first (oil is allowed to dwell 24hrs+), then you clean to leave the surface of the leather free from any oils or whatever that will attract dust and grit.

In the case of perforated leather - yes, SOME conditioner might work it's way into the leather but it certainly won't give uniform coverage or have any real effect - and definitely not before the conditioner dries out. All it really does is clog the perforations and you have to go and clean them all out with a tooth pick. A cleaner/conditioner routine is really maintenance only on well cared for, non-cleared leather (which really doesn't exist any more, at least in terms of automotive finishings).

As for the colour, the deepening effect you're seeing is simply the oily conditioner sitting on top of the clear - it's not rejuvenating the dye or anything fun like that. The colour in leather is exactly that - a dye - a conditioner won't bring that back. You'll often find that black leather seats look slightly lighter and lose their sheen when you clean them - this is because you're removing the built up oil and people grease that is sitting on top - has exactly the same effect.


A simple test to find out how effectively you can condition your leather is to get an eye dropper and let a drop of water fall on the seat. Uncoated leather will almost instantly soak it up and turn dark (try it on your Mrs expensive matte leather handbag - these are rarely coated - but yes, it will probably stain it). The urethane coating will stop the water from sinking in - I'm not saying it will bead up like freshly waxed paint, but your seat will just be wet - it won't absorb it. And if the leather can't absorb water, it certainly won't absorb a wipe on cream or solvent and lanolin napkin wipe (which really just work towards drying everything out and make it go crunchy). Automotive leather is generally not meant to be shiny.

 

[Michael-08-VE]

Your one of the gurus on here mate so I've got a question for you. Could you oil the seats In a similar fashion as you would a jacket?

 

[SSVSE]

Tinsnips , im confused, i am sure my car 's leather does not have any coating on it at all as the Duragloss leather contioner i use soaks right in and does a good job of softening it with no residue. It also gives it a new leather smell too.
ps, my car is immaculate in and out with only 58k on it.

this is what i use: Leather Conditioner | duragloss.com.au

 

[Wongsta]

While on the subject of leather, I have a SS-Z ute with the "leather bolstered" seats. Can anyone tell me if the non-clothed sections including the back of the seats and headrests are all leather or a mix of leather and vinyl? To me the leather seat sections feel no different to the vinyl on the door trims.

 

[Veberlina]

I use Final Inspection Leather Clean + Final Inspection Leather Feed on my Caprice nappa leather seats. This is made by some aussie guy who is a detailing guru.

The leather cleaner is the best cleaner I've found, gets all the dirt up. The Feed apparently doesn't get absorbed as my seats also have a urethane coating, but I use it because it smells like brand new leather seats, and I like that smell given I have nappa. It also makes the seats feel softer for a while.

 

[TinSnips]

Your one of the gurus on here mate so I've got a question for you. Could you oil the seats In a similar fashion as you would a jacket?

The urethane clear applied on the top of the leather surface will not allow an oil to penetrate in as it should. The leatherique system works in much the same way as treatment for a jacket or couch, or whatever - but relies on the surface being able to absorb it. So for old aniline leather, it's ideal - and for cracked modern leather it can help, though the adhesive in between plied layers of leather will limit how effective it will be. Basically, if you have an old 50s rolls royce, yes you can - modern vehicles, not so much unless they're already munted.

Tinsnips , im confused, i am sure my car 's leather does not have any coating on it at all as the Duragloss leather contioner i use soaks right in and does a good job of softening it with no residue. It also gives it a new leather smell too.
ps, my car is immaculate in and out with only 58k on it.

this is what i use: Leather Conditioner | duragloss.com.au

I agree with you entirely that it smells stunning. Duragloss 221 and Zaino z10 (same same) are what they like to refer to as a water-based leather conditioner, which isn't strictly accurate. It uses a water based emulsion to thin out and carry whatever they decide to use as conditioning oils, usually mink oil and lanolin. So as you apply it to the surface, it basically flashes dry like IPA would - rather than soaks in (a negligible amount MAY get in through stitching, but no where near enough to actually be of any real benefit). This is so it doesn't leave a greasy film on the surface - but it still does leave a film (if you use the shampoo on it again after conditioning, you will remove it), and it's designed to so they can say it offers UV protection (some). Contrast that to a genuine leather sealant or coating that will actually cure and bond to the surface and serve as a sacrificial layer to help preserve the urethane and won't be wiped off.

There is piece of text on some sites (for zaino and duragloss) that kind of gives the game away a little. It's recommended for use on vinyl as well, which obviously has no use for, and is unable to absorb any conditioning oils, but will still have the same flashing effect as if you were to apply it to leather, so as not to leave a greasy surface.

Leather is cleared for two main reasons - firstly for durability and stain resistance (although, the clear can still stain - things like sun screen can bleach the clear and make it opaque). If manufacturers building mass produced cars didn't use cleared leather, and the cars were being used as much as they are today, with the vast majority of people completely disregarding any form of maintenance or dedicated cleaning, they'd have a phenomenal amount of seats to re-trim within the warranty period. The second reason is to lock the natural oils of the leather in - the average person does not care for their car, but also won't put up with seats and the like that are cracking and splitting within a year of purchase due to drying out, so clearing them locks in the moisture and keeps them sort of soft-ish. You won't have a warranty claim knocked back because you didn't condition your leather enough. So if moisture/oil is locked in, it's also locked out, at least for the functional part, perforations and stitching aside.

Please don't think I'm blatantly advising against using it. If you're happy with what it does and enjoy the smell, by all means, condition to your heart's content. Duragloss/Zaino don't have any mineral spirits that will break down the urethane or anything nasty like that - so you're not going to break anything by using it. I'm more trying to make the point that the clean/condition route is somewhat redundant with modern leathers. A clean and seal, or clean and coat approach is more appropriate for modern finishes.

I also didn't mean to imply that you let your seats get manky - but it doesn't take long for seats to have enough grime on them to start getting a bit stiff. The duragloss cleaner is very good and very gentle, I believe it does contain some mink oil which, again, won't hurt. You can use the Leatherique cleaner as a regular wipe down as well - but you can also use a non-caustic APC (weak mix) as a leather shampoo and not have any troubles, while saving a fair amount of cash.

There's an increasing range of leather coatings arriving on the local market, both DIY and pro-applied - and they're definitely worth looking into as they are designed to work with the urethane coating, rather than the leather beneath it. The big trick to getting the most out of modern leather is to keep that urethane layer clean and intact.

While on the subject of leather, I have a SS-Z ute with the "leather bolstered" seats. Can anyone tell me if the non-clothed sections including the back of the seats and headrests are all leather or a mix of leather and vinyl? To me the leather seat sections feel no different to the vinyl on the door trims.

The upper surface of the bolsters will be leather, the outers and backs of the seats and arm rests are almost always synthetic.