Considering a MY12 VE SV6 with 210k on the clock.

[Blazadin]

Hey guys, another newb asking the 'what to look for?' question when buying a second hand VE.

I've found a decent Series 2 SV6 with 210k on the clock. The images look immaculate and the advertisement says its been well serviced including major services done.

I'm going to go out and check it, just want to get some ideas on key things to keep an eye/ ear out for?

(I did use the search thread, most threads came up were either considerably old and i wanted to be sure nothing else has popped up since)

 

[bgpzfm]

Here's what I'd look for -

1. Have the timing chains been done? If so, did they do the sprockets and tensioners, or do it the cheap way and do the chain only? There should be receipts for this work. If not done yet, they will need to be done eventually, so IMHO, budget for it.

2. Look at the service records closely. If the engine hasn't had regular oil changes at or before the mandated intervals, it's likely full of sludge now.

3. Has the seller / previous owner dealt with the ridiculous PCV system and added an oil catch can? The PCV on the RH valve cover is prone to blocking up due to having stupidly small holes and this causes no end of dramas with sludge and other issues.

4. At engine start up, there should not be any momentary rattle.

5. Presuming it's auto - reverse should engage without clunks or delays.

6. Front end shouldn't clunk when going over speed humps, etc.

7. If possible, take it for a test drive on a section of motorway or highway (110 km/h limit) for 10 minutes and make sure the coolant temperature doesn't spike. Put the trip computer into engineering mode and keep an eye on coolant temp - it should not get much over 115 degrees with aircon running on a stinking hot day.

8. LFX or LLT engine? Guessing LFX because YM2012; LFX is likely a safer bet anyway.

These are things I've learned the hard way so far about the joys of SV6 ute ownership - bought mine at auction with 154K km on it and to put it politely, it's been a major discovery exercise.

 

[Blazadin]

Here's what I'd look for -

1. Have the timing chains been done? If so, did they do the sprockets and tensioners, or do it the cheap way and do the chain only? There should be receipts for this work. If not done yet, they will need to be done eventually, so IMHO, budget for it.

2. Look at the service records closely. If the engine hasn't had regular oil changes at or before the mandated intervals, it's likely full of sludge now.

3. Has the seller / previous owner dealt with the ridiculous PCV system and added an oil catch can? The PCV on the RH valve cover is prone to blocking up due to having stupidly small holes and this causes no end of dramas with sludge and other issues.

4. At engine start up, there should not be any momentary rattle.

5. Presuming it's auto - reverse should engage without clunks or delays.

6. Front end shouldn't clunk when going over speed humps, etc.

7. If possible, take it for a test drive on a section of motorway or highway (110 km/h limit) for 10 minutes and make sure the coolant temperature doesn't spike. Put the trip computer into engineering mode and keep an eye on coolant temp - it should not get much over 115 degrees with aircon running on a stinking hot day.

8. LFX or LLT engine? Guessing LFX because YM2012; LFX is likely a safer bet anyway.

These are things I've learned the hard way so far about the joys of SV6 ute ownership - bought mine at auction with 154K km on it and to put it politely, it's been a major discovery exercise.

Oooft that sounds rough! but thank you for the detail, this is awesome to work with.. and yea from my investigation its an LFX. The Owner has said hes willing to give me multiple service reports so ill go through those

 

[rtmpgt]

I'd also be more concerned to as to how that car was driven for those 210k. I bought my current ute at 210k (now 235k) and I had rod six let go out of bloody nowhere. Seeing as i've got an LLT, that's a weirdo transition engine. So i got buttraunched for about $5k to replace the engine with a 75k engine out of a Calais. (fitting was included though, thank heck)

What's usually the cause for that front end clunk? I get a bit of a clunk noise when i hit the brakes at a low speed.

 

[bgpzfm]

I'd also be more concerned to as to how that car was driven for those 210k. I bought my current ute at 210k (now 235k) and I had rod six let go out of bloody nowhere. Seeing as i've got an LLT, that's a weirdo transition engine. So i got buttraunched for about $5k to replace the engine with a 75k engine out of a Calais. (fitting was included though, thank heck)

Ouch. As in big ouch. Was your old LLT pulled down? If so, how much sludge was found in the engine? Was the cause of the #6 rod failure determined?

In these days of COVID tax, $5K fitted is a pretty good price. I've been looking for a replacement LLT by my SV6 and all I can find are sludgers with moonshot mileage on them for $3.5K. Best price on an exchange reco long engine these days is $5.8K, then there's ancillary swapping and fitting labour on top of that. I've had weird coolant temp spiking going on from the time I'd bought this ute at auction, and after replacing the thermostat (a real biach to get to!), the radiator, water pump, and coolant cap (a known failure point) with a genuine one, it's still carrying on. Figure it's either head gasket or porous head, but this is a story for another thread.

For the OP's benefit, it may also be worth mentioning how these engines do use more oil than people are generally used to, due to the piston squiters and also because they demand a fairly thin oil. Oil ought to be checked every time you fill 'er up, or once a week.

What's usually the cause for that front end clunk? I get a bit of a clunk noise when i hit the brakes at a low speed.

In my case, the lower control arm bushes, all the sway bar bushes, and one of the tie rod ends were all cactus. As you wrote, how the car was driven in the past can make a difference to how it is in the present.

 

[rtmpgt]

Ouch. As in big ouch. Was your old LLT pulled down? If so, how much sludge was found in the engine? Was the cause of the #6 rod failure determined?

In these days of COVID tax, $5K fitted is a pretty good price. I've been looking for a replacement LLT by my SV6 and all I can find are sludgers with moonshot mileage on them for $3.5K. Best price on an exchange reco long engine these days is $5.8K, then there's ancillary swapping and fitting labour on top of that. I've had weird coolant temp spiking going on from the time I'd bought this ute at auction, and after replacing the thermostat (a real biach to get to!), the radiator, water pump, and coolant cap (a known failure point) with a genuine one, it's still carrying on. Figure it's either head gasket or porous head, but this is a story for another thread.

For the OP's benefit, it may also be worth mentioning how these engines do use more oil than people are generally used to, due to the piston squiters and also because they demand a fairly thin oil. Oil ought to be checked every time you fill 'er up, or once a week.



In my case, the lower control arm bushes, all the sway bar bushes, and one of the tie rod ends were all cactus. As you wrote, how the car was driven in the past can make a difference to how it is in the present.

Yeah, we narrowed it down to the DMF going kablammo, caused the bearings on rod six to give eachother the hug 'o death.

I got my engine fitted way before the 'rona caused everyone to price their services like the world's ending. Wouldn't like to imagine how much it costs to get something done these days... If I'm paying those prices they better come with a beej behind the workshop from the owner's wife.

I'll take a look next time I got 'er on the hoist. It usually happens under low-speed braking so I have a sneaking suspicion it's a strut top, but I do intend on installing coilovers eventually, so that might just fix itself when I get that done.

 

[Blazadin]

Damn guys, thats rough as hell.. @bgpzfm if the engine has sludge, is there anyway to tell?/ Treat? before the engine goes the way of the dodo?

 

[bgpzfm]

@bgpzfm if the engine has sludge, is there anyway to tell?/ Treat? before the engine goes the way of the dodo?

I hope somebody else chimes in here with a better answer than this - the only way I know to spot sludge is once you've removed a valve cover (or other part behind which oil flows) and you'll see it. I don't know how to spot it without opening up the engine. Maybe by using one of those stethoscope cameras, if you know what to look for?

Cleaning up the sludge - well, the best way to do that is to do it properly. When it comes time to do the timing chains, also drop the sump, pull the valve covers, and clean them up, along with the timing chain cover. Then oil and filter changes every 5K km with good quality gear.

If there's nothing obvious wrong and it passes your initial inspection - ie service history is good, it doesn't rattle or clunk, it shifts nicely, etc - your safest bet is to get an inspection done by the RACV before buying it. A little cash spent now might save you a lot of cash later. That said, they're a great car and quite reliable, as long as they're looked after.

 

[Blazadin]

I hope somebody else chimes in here with a better answer than this - the only way I know to spot sludge is once you've removed a valve cover (or other part behind which oil flows) and you'll see it. I don't know how to spot it without opening up the engine. Maybe by using one of those stethoscope cameras, if you know what to look for?

Cleaning up the sludge - well, the best way to do that is to do it properly. When it comes time to do the timing chains, also drop the sump, pull the valve covers, and clean them up, along with the timing chain cover. Then oil and filter changes every 5K km with good quality gear.

If there's nothing obvious wrong and it passes your initial inspection - ie service history is good, it doesn't rattle or clunk, it shifts nicely, etc - your safest bet is to get an inspection done by the RACV before buying it. A little cash spent now might save you a lot of cash later. That said, they're a great car and quite reliable, as long as they're looked after.

So i just got the full service history.. On paper its A1 except it needs an Auto service.
I rang the mechanic whose serviced it every 15k since 60k. His opinion, the car has another easy 100k in her
Ill scrub the identity details from the service reports and upload them if you guys would like a look over.


Im going to check it in person on saturday, but i feel im looking at a loved bargain

 

[stick3]

as we know now 15k is too long it should be done every 7500k at least 2 oil changes per year so there will be sludge