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Converting to a VN Calais dash

88GreenVN

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I remember reading the adjustment formula in a manual I had once. Maybe it's still in the glove box of the VN :) I am really hoping it's going to be as simple as adjusting the flowcal variable until it's correct :D that'd be perfect!!

If it's the same signal type then there is a big range to calibrate it with. You should be able to get it close :)
 

killerian

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hey guys i really want to get the lvl 3 in my vn ss but i just dont get it is there any1 that could send me some pics to help me out
 

88GreenVN

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hey guys i really want to get the lvl 3 in my vn ss but i just dont get it is there any1 that could send me some pics to help me out

You need to solder 8 wires into the dash loom and clip 4 lugs into the switch block plug.
 

savage1987

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If it's the same signal type then there is a big range to calibrate it with. You should be able to get it close :)
for the record, the injector feed from the LS1 only provides around half the actual figure - there isn't nearly enough calibration in the TC to get it reading right, so I'm trying to work out how to double the feed to the computer :)
 

killerian

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could you send me something were it shows you what wires you need to tap into ?
 

88GreenVN

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could you send me something were it shows you what wires you need to tap into ?

The very first post has a wire diagram to follow. There is 2 pages to print off that will guide you to the wires that need connecting.
 

Jxfwsf

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anyone come across an issue with l3 clusters where once it's installed and the ignition is switched on the speedo jumps straight to 80 km/h and sits there (engine running or off but in ign position and stationary), cluster used to work fine, it's a s1 cluster into a s2, the stock l2 cluster works fine, all wiring and connections look okay, no broken traces on the l3 cluster, all other gauges working as they should, can't seem to find any info on the prob.



Another mod to help wire this in if you can't get the correct plug and wiring and you are competent with a soldering iron.
parts needed:

either a smd rework station or solder wick/braid to remove the old plug
multimeter so you can work out what wire goes where to install as per first post pinout
pliers so you can mod the right angle connector as it won't plug straight in, see pics below to see what i mean.
You may need a 1mm drill bit to put through the hole carefully to clean out any solder so the header will fit.
2 x 10 pin female double row plug (pc ide style)
2 x 10 pin 2.54mm right angle double row header
20 wire flat cable (multi colored would be best)

all the below pics are pretty self explanatory and show roughly how to do this.

using the pliers move 1 pin at a time through the plastic so it resembles the header on the left and lines up with the holes.
02122011202.jpg

02122011203.jpg


install a plug to space the header at the correct height on the board, if you solder it on pressed down into the board you won't get a plug on
once soldered in place carefully use the plug to push the plastic on the header back towards the right angle as far as possible
this helps to make sure there is good contact when plugged in as the 2 rows are no longer in line.
02122011204.jpg

02122011205.jpg

note the board is at the top in the image below.
smc4.jpg

02122011206.jpg
 
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88GreenVN

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The series 1 to series 2 should not make a difference in the speedo working. It will be the voltage regulator or the speedo itself.
 
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