Coolant Temp Sensor Voltage to High (code 15)

[BOA32]

i have a VS Commodore V6 and lately its been cutting out when it gets hot,usually about 15mins of driving and wont start for about 15mins or so, my fuel consumption has increased dramatically.. i have replaced the coolant temp sensor but it still throws code 15. now it starts but when accelerator is touched even slightly it splutters and carries on and stalls, like its getting to much fuel or something. It also shows on diagnosis computer that coolant temp is -38 degrees and jumps around all over the place? i can post pics of the diagnostic info pages if that would help.. Any info is muchly appreciated as my car is stuck on side of the road.

 

[BOA32]

heres all the pictures iv taken of the diagnostic screen, sorry theyre not in order but i done the best i could.

 

[BlackVXGTS]

Looks like you might have a problem either with the wiring or the CTS connector. The CTS readings in the first picture look fine. The readings in the picture at the end show that the temperature sensor signal is the same as the reference voltage. A faulty connection or an open circuit will cause a code 15 to be set.

 

[UP THE RED VS]

Which coolant temp sensor did you replace? The one at the front of the engine is for the gauge only, there is another at the back that the ecu reads from?

 

[VS_Pete]

No both at the front.
Temp. Sender to gauge one on the left.
Temp Sensor to ECU one on the right.

 

[woteva]

It should still run and drive with coolant sensors not connected. Will check it out tomorrow with a wreck I have here.

 

[BOA32]

Thanks for your replies everyone it's greatly appreciated.....
I'v replaced the Temp Sensor (not Sender) with a brand new one and its still throwing the same "Code15 (Temp Sensor Voltage Too High)" even after clearing the fault history it showed up again. It starts but runs very rough like its getting way too much fuel or has a bad Vaccum Leak (checked all Vaccum Hoses and there's no visible leaks). Everytime I touch Accelerator it starts to die until I back off.
So today I swapped out sum parts off of a perfectly going "1998 VT 3.8L 4speed Automatic Sedan" and the problem is still bloody there. I swapped = Throttle Position Sensor, Idle Air Control Valve, MAFF Intake Air Sensor and the Air Intake Temp Sensor?(on the side of air intake box). Iv tested my Spark Plug Leads and Coil Pack(all good). Could it be anything to do with my Alternator because it was sqeeling like a bitch last week so I sprayed sum WD40 on the front where the Pulley bolts on and she stopped squeeling? Does this sound more like a Faulty ECU? Is there a reliable way of testing the ECU without having to go buy another one? Can it be tested with a G-SCAN Diagnostic Tool?
Its been broken down and in a business carpark for nearly a week now and i'm very surprised that scumbags havn't taken whatever they can get off it yet. I just need to get her home and out of harms way but I cant afford the $165 towtruck fee at the moment. So even just a quick short term fix to get her home will do if anybody has any ideas(other than $5 petrol and a box of matches, lol)

 

[woteva]

engine will still run with coolant temp sensor and sender disconnected. Will also run with intake air temp sensor disconnected, so you can rule these out.

I would be trying DFI and CAS next.

 

[BOA32]

engine will still run with coolant temp sensor and sender disconnected. Will also run with intake air temp sensor disconnected, so you can rule these out.
I would be trying DFI and CAS next.

Where can I find the DFI and CAS? Iv changed the Spark Plugs + Leads - Oil + Coolant - Thermostat - Tested Coil Pack (OK) - Coolant Temp Sensor - Throttle Position Sensor - Idle Air Control Valve - MAF Air Flow Sensor - Air Temp Sensor & removed the Catalyct Converter Centre. Its still cutting out when it heats up and it loses acceleration power when im trying to get it sideways around a corner, there's also a very loud sucking noise under the bonnet like its sucking way to much air or sumthin. Will it still run if I unplug the O2 Sensor's on the Exhaust?
Is there anyway of testing the ECU without replacing it

 

[woteva]

DFI is under the coils and CAS is on the harmonic balancer. Try the CAS first.
The only reason I mentioned these 2 is they can fault and cause running issues and not show any codes.