Cuts out mid drive!!

[Blackwolf101]

If you're handy with things and confident, find the alarm box (should be somewhere above the pedals in the dash) pull it down and carefully open it up, check the circuit board around the relays that are actually mounted on that circuit board to see if there are any loose connections (you'd need to look for tiny cracks on the soldered parts) if you find any then you'd need to re-solder them to fix this (with battery disconnected). I've worked with immobilizers for many years and 9 times out of 10 when the engine was cutting out, it turned out to be just that.. it's very common!

If you are going to be doing this, and you have rings or chains on your hands then remove them, because if they come in contact with any part of the circuit board you could fry the alarm. Or just disconnect the car battery, just the negative clamp is enough. You could also take some pics, i would know more what you have there then.

Joining the pink wire back together as i've suggested earlier will just by-pass the relay in the alarm which may have the loose connection on the said circuit board.

 

[lwessel]

Have you swapped the HES
yet ?
And are you getting spark ?

No not yet HES is major job but my mate is returning my portable compressor thought i might just jimmy the side of dizzy and blow the inside out- would this be hopeful fix lol..

 

[lwessel]

Making up a new key wouldn't stuff it up, but when you said you have an alarm in it which beeps.. that's not a Holden fitted one. You should check the big cables coming off the ignition switch and see if whoever has installed the alarm used the ignition wires or starter wires as method for the immobilizer. Quite often with the engine cutting out it can be that. If they've cut the pink wire (ignition) to use for immobilizer, join the two ends of pink back together wherever it's cut under the steering wheel to see if it will fix problem. If they used the purple wire (starter) you can leave it as is as you don't have a problem with the starter side of things.

Also, does it take a while before it cuts out? (like once it warms up etc) And when it does cut out, can you start it back up immediately or do you have to wait a while, like to cool down etc.

And yes, check the negative connection to engine, as well as where the negative thick wire of the battery is bolted to the chassis of the car.

Wow thought it was wierd the steering column is outta wack and behind wires are a mess will look tomorra for the pink wire stuff.
Yeah prob 2-4 mins of driving but she starts up straight away but gurgles heaps and cuts out in less than 2mins. Thanks

 

[lwessel]

Nah.

Cheers was a thought

 

[lwessel]

If you're handy with things and confident, find the alarm box (should be somewhere above the pedals in the dash) pull it down and carefully open it up, check the circuit board around the relays that are actually mounted on that circuit board to see if there are any loose connections (you'd need to look for tiny cracks on the soldered parts) if you find any then you'd need to re-solder them to fix this (with battery disconnected). I've worked with immobilizers for many years and 9 times out of 10 when the engine was cutting out, it turned out to be just that.. it's very common!

If you are going to be doing this, and you have rings or chains on your hands then remove them, because if they come in contact with any part of the circuit board you could fry the alarm. Or just disconnect the car battery, just the negative clamp is enough. You could also take some pics, i would know more what you have there then.

Joining the pink wire back together as i've suggested earlier will just by-pass the relay in the alarm which may have the loose connection on the said circuit board.

Oh my i could try i follow instructions well i was just thinking cant i just get rid of alarm as its a after market job, in saying that will look at and send you some pics.
Also just throwing this at you it has been fitted with a new radiator not original one with some sort of extra air flow cylinder at the bottom of grill could that be an issue

 

[lwessel]

If you're handy with things and confident, find the alarm box (should be somewhere above the pedals in the dash) pull it down and carefully open it up, check the circuit board around the relays that are actually mounted on that circuit board to see if there are any loose connections (you'd need to look for tiny cracks on the soldered parts) if you find any then you'd need to re-solder them to fix this (with battery disconnected). I've worked with immobilizers for many years and 9 times out of 10 when the engine was cutting out, it turned out to be just that.. it's very common!

If you are going to be doing this, and you have rings or chains on your hands then remove them, because if they come in contact with any part of the circuit board you could fry the alarm. Or just disconnect the car battery, just the negative clamp is enough. You could also take some pics, i would know more what you have there then.

Joining the pink wire back together as i've suggested earlier will just by-pass the relay in the alarm which may have the loose connection on the said circuit board.

When tinkering under hood this arvo i found this hose with a big hole in it which is from the emissions control canister prob not a good thing eh, canister is deff original part who knows when was replaced lol

 

[Blackwolf101]

The fault you have sounds to be electrical and now that you've said takes 2-4 minutes before you have the issue, it does sound like a relay loose connection as they only take that long to warm up. I doubt the hose would cause this but replace it still.

You can remove the aftermarket alarm, it's easy if you know what to do. Show pics before you start cutting any wires LOL

Also, just want to ask, when you said the alarm 'beeps' is that a horn beep or a siren? The horn one is usually a factory fitted one (not always tho) and part of the BCM and can't be removed. Can you take a pic of the actual remote you have for the alarm.. i can tell you from that.

 

[Blackwolf101]

It would not be a radiator related problem, the issue you are having is with either.. ignition or fuel supply.. there's not a lot more that can cause this. However both are controlled by ECU (to some extent BCM) and aftermarket immobilizer. In case of ECU, it gets signals from different sensors on the engine.

If you had a V6 they have a more complex ignition system, with the CAS (crank angle sensor) a common fault that appears as yours, and they have 6 independently controlled ignition coils. In a case of V8 it is a far simplier ignition system, with the sensor in the dizzy and a single ignition coil switched by a transistor mounted on a heatsink to the right of the engine (on the car body) which is the ignition module. Any of these 3 can also create the problem you're having, and more often than not it is this ignition module, which (just like relays inside immobilizer circuit boards) can have loose connections on its circuit board inside. They can be repaired easy rather than replacing. But have you tried replacing it yet?

 

[lwessel]

The fault you have sounds to be electrical and now that you've said takes 2-4 minutes before you have the issue, it does sound like a relay loose connection as they only take that long to warm up. I doubt the hose would cause this but replace it still.

You can remove the aftermarket alarm, it's easy if you know what to do. Show pics before you start cutting any wires LOL

Also, just want to ask, when you said the alarm 'beeps' is that a horn beep or a siren? The horn one is usually a factory fitted one (not always tho) and part of the BCM and can't be removed. Can you take a pic of the actual remote you have for the alarm.. i can tell you from that.

Hi, i wanted to go over the motor today and checked all circuits relays fuses wiring which is heaps LOL and low an behold I find the 60 a main fuse Was loose so I went to push it back in and it's actually

The fault you have sounds to be electrical and now that you've said takes 2-4 minutes before you have the issue, it does sound like a relay loose connection as they only take that long to warm up. I doubt the hose would cause this but replace it still.

You can remove the aftermarket alarm, it's easy if you know what to do. Show pics before you start cutting any wires LOL

Also, just want to ask, when you said the alarm 'beeps' is that a horn beep or a siren? The horn one is usually a factory fitted one (not always tho) and part of the BCM and can't be removed. Can you take a pic of the actual remote you have for the alarm.. i can tell you from that.

Hi I was checking under the Bonnet wires fuses circuits all that sort of stuff and I came across the 60 a main fuse it was a little bit loose and as I went to push it in the connecters inside fell away so i removed it bit no small screws holding it in mmm check pics pls. Also alarm makes a beeping sound so looks like factory vr is 5ltr!!

 

[lwessel]

Hi, i wanted to go over the motor today and checked all circuits relays fuses wiring which is heaps LOL and low an behold I find the 60 a main fuse Was loose so I went to push it back in and it's actually

Hi I was checking under the Bonnet wires fuses circuits all that sort of stuff and I came across the 60 a main fuse it was a little bit loose and as I went to push it in the connecters inside fell away so i removed it bit no small screws holding it in mmm check pics pls. Also alarm makes a beeping sound so looks like factory vr is 5ltr!!

It would not be a radiator related problem, the issue you are having is with either.. ignition or fuel supply.. there's not a lot more that can cause this. However both are controlled by ECU (to some extent BCM) and aftermarket immobilizer. In case of ECU, it gets signals from different sensors on the engine.

If you had a V6 they have a more complex ignition system, with the CAS (crank angle sensor) a common fault that appears as yours, and they have 6 independently controlled ignition coils. In a case of V8 it is a far simplier ignition system, with the sensor in the dizzy and a single ignition coil switched by a transistor mounted on a heatsink to the right of the engine (on the car body) which is the ignition module. Any of these 3 can also create the problem you're having, and more often than not it is this ignition module, which (just like relays inside immobilizer circuit boards) can have loose connections on its circuit board inside. They can be repaired easy rather than replacing. But have you tried replacing it yet?

It would not be a radiator related problem, the issue you are having is with either.. ignition or fuel supply.. there's not a lot more that can cause this. However both are controlled by ECU (to some extent BCM) and aftermarket immobilizer. In case of ECU, it gets signals from different sensors on the engine.

If you had a V6 they have a more complex ignition system, with the CAS (crank angle sensor) a common fault that appears as yours, and they have 6 independently controlled ignition coils. In a case of V8 it is a far simplier ignition system, with the sensor in the dizzy and a single ignition coil switched by a transistor mounted on a heatsink to the right of the engine (on the car body) which is the ignition module. Any of these 3 can also create the problem you're having, and more often than not it is this ignition module, which (just like relays inside immobilizer circuit boards) can have loose connections on its circuit board inside. They can be repaired easy rather than replacing. But have you tried replacing it yet?