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Cuts out mid drive!!

wildfiremaint

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Hi, yes thats the connector that goes down to the ABS sensor on the front hub.
There are 4 in total.
Two front , two back.
Cheers.
 

wildfiremaint

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Hi again.
I suspect that your alarm may
be a Rhino with battery backed up siren under rhe bonnet .
( with keyswitch ).
The rechargeable battery in mine had leaked out over the circuit board and it was
sucking 400mA from the cars battery at all times .
The battery would go flat overnight.
I ripped it out and threw it in
the junk.
It had been wired to use the stock remote to open doors and
disable/enable the alarm.
It was easy to remove as it didn’t directly disable the engine. The VATS does that.
The beeping you are hearing
may be its last dying breath
due to the internal battery
almost flat.:)
 

Blackwolf101

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Hi, apprentice sparky here lololol. Yep i did break it i only undid front screw didnt realise there was a back one too When i removed bolted pins there was some whitish powder on the back pin ordered new one gonna be a busy w/e also gonna have a crack at the alarm and radio

Cool, i am a sparky lol
Re pic, i meant the original fuse, particularly the bottom of it where the pins are (even if broken) not a new one.. i know what new one looks like :)

Did you check the wires on bottom of the fuse block for burned insulation on them? If there is none and the pins where the fuse goes (and pins on fuse) don't look burned or discolored or plastic around pins not melted, then your fuse was not lose.

And yeah check if someone has installed an aftermarket alarm or immobilizer. This could be a likely cause for cutting out. Other then that, all that's left is the HES that you haven't replaced yet, but check the easier bits first.
 

Blackwolf101

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Hi again.
I suspect that your alarm may
be a Rhino with battery backed up siren under rhe bonnet .
( with keyswitch ).
The rechargeable battery in mine had leaked out over the circuit board and it was
sucking 400mA from the cars battery at all times .
The battery would go flat overnight.
I ripped it out and threw it in
the junk.
It had been wired to use the stock remote to open doors and
disable/enable the alarm.
It was easy to remove as it didn’t directly disable the engine. The VATS does that.
The beeping you are hearing
may be its last dying breath
due to the internal battery
almost flat.:)

Yeah i used to install these, they don't immobilize the engine directly (that part is kept original for the BCM to do) tho he mentioned that the sound is coming from the horn, not a siren. Keep in mind the original Statesman BCM use a separate horn up near the firewall from memory, not the main 2 horns below the car battery, so the horn from the alarm sounds different from the main horn, and if it has dirt or corrosion in it then it could sound muffled etc.
 

lwessel

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Hi, yes thats the connector that goes down to the ABS sensor on the front hub.
There are 4 in total.
Two front , two back.
Cheers.
Oh ok couldnt find what it was in the book thanks umm as you see its all cracked should i just electric tape them until i find a better solution? The poor VR got hammered yesty with hail abit of dammage
 

lwessel

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Hi again.
I suspect that your alarm may
be a Rhino with battery backed up siren under rhe bonnet .
( with keyswitch ).
The rechargeable battery in mine had leaked out over the circuit board and it was
sucking 400mA from the cars battery at all times .
The battery would go flat overnight.
I ripped it out and threw it in
the junk.
It had been wired to use the stock remote to open doors and
disable/enable the alarm.
It was easy to remove as it didn’t directly disable the engine. The VATS does that.
The beeping you are hearing
may be its last dying breath
due to the internal battery
almost flat.:)
Yeah i think i better remove it and geta after market alarm after i get her running properly lol
 

lwessel

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Cool, i am a sparky lol
Re pic, i meant the original fuse, particularly the bottom of it where the pins are (even if broken) not a new one.. i know what new one looks like :)

Did you check the wires on bottom of the fuse block for burned insulation on them? If there is none and the pins where the fuse goes (and pins on fuse) don't look burned or discolored or plastic around pins not melted, then your fuse was not lose.

And yeah check if someone has installed an aftermarket alarm or immobilizer. This could be a likely cause for cutting out. Other then that, all that's left is the HES that you haven't replaced yet, but check the easier bits first.
Yep you were right no burnt wires etc just me not taking out correctly but now is replaced
I got a commpresser and blew inside Dizzy being careful not to adjust cap and changed batterey terminals as they were freying and full of grime
 

lwessel

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Yeah i used to install these, they don't immobilize the engine directly (that part is kept original for the BCM to do) tho he mentioned that the sound is coming from the horn, not a siren. Keep in mind the original Statesman BCM use a separate horn up near the firewall from memory, not the main 2 horns below the car battery, so the horn from the alarm sounds different from the main horn, and if it has dirt or corrosion in it then it could sound muffled etc.
Will have a look tomorrow we got hammered yesterday with hail and still cleaning up in the poor VR got dammaged i recon about 15 or so dings 2 biggish ones others semi
 

VS 5.0

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Will have a look tomorrow we got hammered yesterday with hail and still cleaning up in the poor VR got dammaged i recon about 15 or so dings 2 biggish ones others semi

PDR (Paintless Dent Remval) guys can do some magic tricks with those.
 

Blackwolf101

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Yep you were right no burnt wires etc just me not taking out correctly but now is replaced
I got a commpresser and blew inside Dizzy being careful not to adjust cap and changed batterey terminals as they were freying and full of grime

Blowing the dizzy won't effect the HES tho as it's sealed. It's basically a magnetically sensitive sensor that switches on every time a magnet swings by it or otherwise a magnetic field is interrupted, and because it's operated by magnetic field, there is no physical contact made.

Re grime on battery terminals, are you talking about the greasy stuff? That's usually sprayed on the terminals on purpose to prevent corrosion of the terminals by different types of metals in contact with one another (brass and lead etc) and sometimes acid, so it extends the life of the clamps, and.. corrosion = loose connections. You can clean it all off with mineral terpentine to remove old grease and dust or sand in it before fitting on new battery clamps, but you should re-apply the greasy stuff after, in a nutshell it prevents oxygen getting there.

Sorry to hear about the hail thing :(
 
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