Welcome to Just Commodores, a site specifically designed for all people who share the same passion as yourself.

New Posts Contact us

Just Commodores Forum Community

It takes just a moment to join our fantastic community

Register

Detailing Tips & Tricks....

Low_VX_Taxi

Blanned
Joined
Dec 14, 2006
Messages
240
Reaction score
19
Points
18
Location
On the couch
Members Ride
Blundstone boots
hey guys jus experimented a bit on the glass, and found newspaper and glass cleaner works well, but to get rid of streaks, dry glass and buff with clean, dry sheet of newspaper. thanx for ya help ladies n gentleman

Theres a meguiars product I use that does an awesome job! (il get the product name when i get home from work) It removes tuff grime such as bug splatts and caked on dirt, its non abrasive and designed not to damage tintz on the windows, it doesnt streak and is heapz easy to use, plus it gives the window a nice water beading which is gr8 for a sedan rear window PLUS its spray on and wipe off, id suggest using a microfibre cloth for best results.
 

Low_VX_Taxi

Blanned
Joined
Dec 14, 2006
Messages
240
Reaction score
19
Points
18
Location
On the couch
Members Ride
Blundstone boots
Hey all!

Juss after a little help with giving my car a bit better shine ;)

Ok atm im using meguiars three step system (Paint cleaner, Polish then Carunba wax) but I want to get rid of swirls and small imperfections etc...
Im doing it by hand with microfibre cloths for both application and removal.

I was basically after advice for machine items and pads (types and what would be suitable to my needs) what polishes/waxes I should use. I usually take 5hrs to do the exterior but im happy to spend more time on it to make it look (close to) perfect :D

Ohh btw its a 2002 model Vx Commo with gold(ish) paint (see near my name)
 

Driven By Shine

New Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2007
Messages
20
Reaction score
2
Points
0
Location
Gold Coast
Website
www.drivenbyshine.com.au
Members Ride
VY Wagon on 20's
twin turbos - Id say for a new to machine buffing guy try either an RO (random orbital) or a Dual action RO say like a festool rotex 150 these machines will not leave buff marks or holograms like a traditional rotary if your technique isnt spot on, also they will not burn thru the paint if you lapse concentration. They will however remove swirls but do take alot lot longer due to there gentler nature. Good news is the Commodore paint from the factory is pretty good to work with so Id say an RO should be fine.

As for products I dont use the off the shelf stuff so maybe some others can help there. otherwise try waxit.com.au and check out either the Poorboys World Range of SSR (super swirl removers) or the Pinnacle XMT Range

Both are great. I use the Wolfgang pads and find you cant go wrong.

As for waxes and sealents Id still recommend either of the brands I mentioned. Possibly the Poorboys EX or EXP would suit the colour

Chris
 

mattman

New Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2005
Messages
2,305
Reaction score
13
Points
0
Location
Brisbane
Members Ride
'00 WH V6
Chris,
Just how much can be removed with an RO? I mean I've got a few scratches that are slightly more than a hairline, as well as with a couple of bird leftovers....

I realise the bird marks might be asking a bit much but is an RO going to cut the mustard with scratches?
 

Scooter79

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Messages
1,225
Reaction score
29
Points
48
Age
44
Location
South Coast, NSW
Members Ride
VSII Calais supercharged
Chris,
Just how much can be removed with an RO? I mean I've got a few scratches that are slightly more than a hairline, as well as with a couple of bird leftovers....

I realise the bird marks might be asking a bit much but is an RO going to cut the mustard with scratches?

With the bird poop you should try a clay bar. Even if it doesn't work it's good practice to clay the whole car after a wash to removed any dirt thats bonded in the paint over the years. A claying will only need doing maybe once a year. if the car has never been clayed before you'll notice a big difference just with that one step. As well as removing contaminants it will also remove any old wax so it's a good platform for starting your detail. As for the scratches a RO will remove them provided they're not too deep. If you can feel your finger nail get caught in them then probably not. I'll let Chris take it from here....
 

Driven By Shine

New Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2007
Messages
20
Reaction score
2
Points
0
Location
Gold Coast
Website
www.drivenbyshine.com.au
Members Ride
VY Wagon on 20's
mattman - it basically depends on how much time you have, if you use the correct products and pads you can actually remove a fair bit. yet not as much as a rotary. The reason being you can use much more aggresive compounds that break down and diminish with the heat created from the rotary, if using the same compounds and pads with the RO, it doesnt create anywhere near the heat required and would take forever (if at all) to break down the heavy compounds.

Just noticed your in Brisbane as well. maybe I should call by and have a look when I have some time

Chris
 

mattman

New Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2005
Messages
2,305
Reaction score
13
Points
0
Location
Brisbane
Members Ride
'00 WH V6
I'm in northside, I've had a look at your site (googled)... looks like top notch work and definitely good for the money but maybe a bit out of my price range at the moment :(
 

andyman

The Only 6sp VZ Wagon
Joined
Mar 29, 2005
Messages
3,783
Reaction score
68
Points
48
Age
34
Location
Orange, NSW
Members Ride
2012 BT50 4x4, 84 Hilux 4x4 & 05 Husky TE450
hey ive got myself an 05 vz wagon in barbados blue, the guy that had it befores house was on the beach and the car wasnt garaged, but there is no rust....

now the paint reflects light and shines fine in the sun but the paint isnt waxy and smooth to feel so my plans are to:

1. clay bar (meguires)
2, polish
3, wax

now i have to decide on what polish and what wax is best to use,

could someone please steer me in the right direction with recomendations from the mainstream brands availble at autopro, autobarn etc,

thanks in advance
 

Karstomz

RIP Nameless One
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Melbourne
Members Ride
VTII CLUBSPORT
I used to use Meguires and swear by it, but found Auto Glym was a little bit better.
Its a little more costly but worth it I feel.

I spend an average of 15 hours detailing my car when ever I do it. But thats cause I am really perdantic about having a clean car.
The products I use in the order I use them are
Bodywork Shampoo Conditioner (Before I start polishing)
Auto Glym Paint Renovator
Super Resin Polish
Ultra Deep Shine (Although if you have a light coloured car this will be useless)
Extra Gloss Protection (do this one in a ventalated room, I almost passed out from the fumes, Its petrolium based)
Car Glass Polish (For windows and headlights etc)
I get a really excellent result in the end, and have had many compliments on the finish. But I'm too picky about the paint work and think I need to go to clay bar for a better result.
Hope this heaps some people
 

Scooter79

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Messages
1,225
Reaction score
29
Points
48
Age
44
Location
South Coast, NSW
Members Ride
VSII Calais supercharged
hey ive got myself an 05 vz wagon in barbados blue, the guy that had it befores house was on the beach and the car wasnt garaged, but there is no rust....
now the paint reflects light and shines fine in the sun but the paint isnt waxy and smooth to feel so my plans are to:
1. clay bar (meguires)
2, polish
3, wax
now i have to decide on what polish and what wax is best to use, could someone please steer me in the right direction with recomendations from the mainstream brands availble at autopro, autobarn etc, thanks in advance


Hey, very nice wagon. The first the to do before you buy anything is to evaluate the condition of the cars paint. It might 'look' good but have you noticed any swirls that you only see when in direct sunlight. Nearly every car with a clear coat has them. Those fine swirls will need to be removed in order to get the best possible finish, and doing it by hand is very difficult. That where you need a random orbital and some good quality buffing pads. Not the type of thing you can buy at any supercheap or autobarn. My orbital of choice is a GMC from bunnings which is in the $130 range and then you have your pads which are around $30 each. I have three. So for a one off detail it can get very expensive but if you intend on doing it regularly like once a month or so it is a wise investment.

When it comes to products most over the counter products are crap. Autoglym and Meguiars is actually very good though. Meguiars is my product of choice but is has to be their 'Professional Mirror Glaze' range. The problem with that is that Meguiars only ships a very small selection of their Mirror Glaze range to Australia. You want the good stuff you have to order it from the US. HOWEVER.... having said that there are products available online in Australia that are as good (and many say better) than Megs and Autoglym. Talk to Dave at waxit.com.au He's got a huge range of products and brands. Anything you will ever need he has it. If you want something reasonably priced I recommend Poorboys, Pinnacle or Wolfgang stuff. Get yourself some microfibre cloths too. You can never have too many and once you use microfibre you'll never use anything else.

A couple of 'off the shelf' products from any autobarn or supercheap I do recomend are:
* Meguiars Deep Crystal Polish - Creates a nice depth and looks nice on any dark colour car.
*Meguiars #21 Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant - Provides excellent protection and looks good too.
*Kenco or Meguiars applicator pads - you'll need a few.

Don't buy Meguiars Deep Crystal Wax - It's only good for one or two washes then it's gone.

A couple of tips... when applying a wax or sealant it's better to apply two very thin coats that one thick one. Applying to thickly will make it difficult to remove and two light coats will offer better protection. Once you finished, reapply a wax or sealant every couple of weeks or a spray on wax after each wash. That will make future maintenance much easier. Finally don't work on the car in full sunlight or when the surface is hot. It will just make the products difficult to wipe off.

By the way, detailing is more of a serious hobby for me at the moment but I'm hoping to go full time in around 12 or 18 months. I'm only in Kiama so if you need any help or advice I'm more than happy to help out.
 
Top