Diff/Axle/Brake gurus, I need advice!

[Leigh_G]

Bearings were pressed on correctly in a press.

Just checked the other side, I had no more than about 0.5mm end float which is good coz that matches the specs you provided Immortality . and it feels silky smooth too.

Maybe worth biting the bullet one more time and being super duper careful and gentle sliding the bearing in, making sure it can spin smoothly the whole time?

 

[Immortality]

It's the only option but if there is no end float you need to figure out why.

Does the bearing cup slide fully into the housing? Make sure there are no burs or anything. You can also use an old bearing cup, grind down the OD on a bench grinder and you can then use old race to tap in the new one without it getting stuck in the bore.

If you are getting the bearings pressed on at a diff shop maybe talk to them about it.

 

[Leigh_G]

I tested the axle on it's own without the brake backing plate obscuring my view and yep, the race slides all the way to the lip in the tube. Good idea about using the spare race to knock the new one in - I've got a few spares ones now LOL.

Looking closely at the lip that sheared off the bearing cage, and they look pretty **** quality..

Really appreciate the help on this, it's the only thing stopping me getting the car to a point where I can just cruise it and enjoy the new engine over summer.

 

[Immortality]

You want Timken bearings.

 

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

Are you using disc brake bearings or drum? They are different. The disc bearing has a little spacer ring.

 

[gtrboyy]

Most likely got faulty part/brand

Could also be bearings incorrectly fitted or damaged when pressed on.

Partly why I prefer to stay within driving distances so can be taken back under warranty.

Not enough skids bro!!!!

 

[Leigh_G]

Are you using disc brake bearings or drum? They are different. The disc bearing has a little spacer ring.

Cheers Abba, I noticed you'd mentioned that before on here, but here's what had me stumped: I bought a VL disc brake axle bearing kit, which has the thicker rubber seal instead of the thinner drum seal. As far as I've seen, none of the VL disc bearing kits have a spacer, just a thicker oil seal??

The part number for the disc kit is 2985.
Drum part is 2769

In my Gregory's VH manual, it has the spacer for disc models shown, but that's for the Salisbury diff, and I'm running a BW from a VL so no idea on what that should be.

I even compared drum and disc kits in the store and the bearing number is identical, just a different oil seal.. it's so confusing..

So I got the verniers out and did some measurements and things don't seem right to me.

The distance from axle tube inner race lip, to the outer face of disc backing plate is 28.3mm

The thickness of the assembled disc bearing and oil seal is coming to about 30mm though (hard to measure a destroyed one but close enough)

This means with a fully seated bearing, the oil seal will protrude past the face of the backing plate by approx 1.7mm.

I feel that tightening up the axle retainer plate is crushing the oil seal with far too much preload on the bearing, causing it to shear the lip off it with no end float present.

I am still using the axle retaining plates off the drum setup - is the VN-VS retainer plate any different?

Not enough skids bro!!!!

Hahaha oh man tell me about it, only got a couple 'test' ones with the old brakes before this whole debacle..

 

[Immortality]

The seal presses against the flat edge of the retaining plate so I can't see there been a difference there.

 

[losh1971]

When I bought my bearing kit from the bearing supplies I was told BW was the same as HQ Banjo.

 

[gtrboyy]

Should be same all holdens small bearing & rear discs from vb-vs...only difference in kit is 2 different seals for drum & discs which supposedly thicker.

I leave that crap up to diff bloke buy & fit as I like to have the warranty in case of issues but also don't have a press or the patience lol