Do you have anything bad to say about VS Series 2 Executive?

Mate I tell ya now I reckon that it is the best of all commodores...not just because I have one but also I'm sure that everyone else will tell you that Holden had ironed out all the problems by the time the series 2 was realeased...no major problems ever arised and I myself have never had a single problem in the 8 1/2 years i've had mine...cheers... :yeah:

 

Had a VS S2 Executive from new.

Hi,

I have had a VS S2 Executive from new in early 1997. It is now past 150,000 km.

In that time, I have had no problems, just some non-periodic maintenance.

I have changed the front and rear brake pads once (at about 120,000 km), but am still on the original rotors.

I have had to replace a number of burnt out light bulbs, which is irritating but hardly out of the ordinary for a car over eight years old.

I have had to replace the clutch just past 140,000 km, which is not cheap in the S2 with the Getrag manual gearbox. But spread over eight years is not a dramatic impost.

Under warranty, a serpentine belt pulley was changed. That problem has not re-appeared since.

I have bought the last three end of model life Commodores, a VL in 1987, the VS S2 in 1997, and most recently a VY S2 last year. I only buy manuals, and don't like spoilers, etc. Thus I needed to buy a VY S2 as the VZ does not offer that option. I would like to buy a manual Calais, but Holden will not offer the option.

I have been very happy with the VS S2. I normally pass cars on around now, but the VS S@ will stay in the family, going to one of my sons when he gets his licence in the next 6 months or so.

 

I've had my 96 S2 since June 1999 at 92k.

Its now at 226k, 100k of that on gas.

I've done

water pump at 180k
serpentine belt and pullies (not tensioner yet) at 190k
radiator at 220k
5k oil changes and brake pads (no discs yet)
A few other things like hoses, flushes and the like.

I know the transmissions are weak, look after it though and it'll keep going. I do a tranny service yearly. Thats the only thing I get someone else to do.

I hear the steering rack is another possible issue, mine seems fine though.

Regards
Clacks

 

I have an early 97 VS Series 2 exec and have not had any major issues with it so far It has only jus clocked over to 130,000 so it's still a bit of a baby considering its 8.5 yrs old now.

I have replaced both O2 sensors, Front stabiliser bar bushes, aircon repaired and little things like bulbs etc. They are reliable cars if they are looked after, jus make sure you service ur auto as if neglected too much you will get minimal life out of em.

Cheers,

Johnsey

 

Start with a Pressure Test and Coolant Flush.

Hi,

The bubbling and burning smell is suggestive of over-heating. The question is what to do with it.

Because the coolant and pressure raises the boiling point above 100 degrees, it is not abnormal for coolant on a hot car to bubble (i.e. boil) when the pressure is removed (cap undone). Thus it may not be certain that the coolant was boiling in the engine, which could be serious.

Dirty brown water means the coolant is overdue for a flush.

I would have a pressure test done to ensure that there are no leaks in the system. Any leaks will need to get fixed.

It is also possible that the radiator core is blocked.

I would then give the cooling system a good flush. Remember to reverse flush the radiator. Don't stop until the flow has been clean for some time. Look for any indication of engine oil in the coolant. Using the correct coolant to refill will give corrosion protection, but it also will give anti-freeze protection and a higher boiling point than straight water.

Because the car has probably got hot, I would also take the opportunity to change the engine oil and filter. When you drain the old oil, look for any indication of water. Check the condition of the oil. Dirty black indicates well used.

The presence of oil in the coolant or water in the oil is indicative of a head gasket leak, or in the unlikely extreme a cracked cylinder head or block.

Check a workshop manual to make sure that you do it correctly.

My VS S2 temperature gauge sits below half way, probably about a third full scale deflection. Has from day 1 to now.

However, my VY S2 shows about 50% full scale deflection.

Thus I believe that there can be guage variances.

Might be a good start to get a serious service for the vehicle to catch up with the preventative maintenance as there would appear to be a Prima Facie case that the previous owner has been a little negligent in this area.

Hope all turns out well.

Cheers.

 

Ive has my vs2 ss for almost a year and in that time, only 1 major problem, had to get the gear box reco'd however previous owner had replaced the LSD (was making a whining sound), and reco the engine (apparnetly had alot of oil leaks and seal issues), ive also had to replace the disc pads and rotors. Other than that its serviced regularly, and runs well.

 

You can get ones that slide over the end of the exhaust and you tighten the bolt but they are ugly, **** and easy to steal/pull off.

Id recommend you get it welded on...

Attached is a picture of mine.. welded on.

 

Strange!

This bubbling from the top LH corner of the colant box is confusing.

What is the level of coolant in the box when cold and when hot?

The only ventilation with the coolant box should be from the cap, with one venting down into the wheel well for overflows, and the other connected to the radiator.

If there is a leak, a replacement coolant box would fix that. But it sounds as though it may also be overfilled.

Hot coolant has an unpleasant smell, so that would be the smell most likely.

 

exhaust tips have no effect on the sound.. mufflers have an effect.

 

Please take this advice....

Never open a radiator cap on a motor thats been running without first...SQUEEZING the top radiator hose to see if any pressure is in the system. If you cant squeeze the hose in then let it cool down until you can....That will save you from any 3rd degree burns and a trip to the hospital.

A guy used to live in our street who burnt his face off from an erupting radiator because of pressure build up when he opened the cap...now he carrys his scar's for life.

Question: Did you check the fluid levels and condition before you picked the car up ?

The rest I have to say is along the lines of what Fekason said...

Cause if the coolant level was driven around on low for sometime air pockets in the heads may have caused them to crack. (costly fix)

Dirty brown River Murray water is a bad sign the car hasn't been looked after.

What condition / level is the engine oil at ?

Drain it and change it....If it looks like mayonaise....your in serious trouble...engine rebuild nessary as you coolant has leaked into you bottom end through a leaking head gasket or cracked head.

This may explain the burning metal smell...as that would cause engine bearings to overheat and fail.

Signs of a leaking head gasket or cracked head are...

1. excessive water coming out of your exhaust
2. excessive water loss and running hot
3. Water in oil (mayonaise) and visa versa

To check just run your car on the spot without the cap on the radiator warm it up thoroughly until the thermostat opens and water starts circulating through your radiator...if you cant see your coolant top it up until it reaches the neck of the radiator.....if you see constant bubbles in your coolant your in trouble.


regards,

sixshooter

 

hello sixshooter just wonderin how do u find your vs runs on lpg is it worth doing ???? cheers muzza

 

:my: Dunno who told you that I own a VS... I'm currently in the market looking for one. :b:

I havent test driven or owned any Vs V6 on gas as yet so I can't really give you a straight answer either :b:

I think someone else answered a similar question along the lines of adding lpg to their v6 somewhere in the forum...

Basically it is only really worth doing if you intend to keep the car for a worth while period to recoup the cost of having it fitted through your saved fuel bills. However long that takes....

regards,

sixshooter :wave:

 

Ummmm......hope you DIDN'T fill it all the way to the TOP of the plastic filler box - they don't like that much. There's a MAX mark on the front of it about half way up. If you did fill it all the way up and noticed the bubbles after this, chances are with the fluid pressure increasing in the tank as the engine gets warm and the fluid level rises, it's ruptured or split the tank.

As other fellaz have said, plain water doesn't do the old girl any good either. The correct mixture of coolant and water is an absolute must if you want your cooling system to last as long as it can. Plain water recommended in emergencies only as it's better than nothing.

Hey - we were all there once. You never forget your first car and it's usually the one that teaches you the most about how to look after one. Stick with it buddy - you'll get there in the end! My first car was a Mark 1 Grotina GT and I killed it. Several times over. Best thing to do with one of them anyway and I have no regrets about doing it now, but it was annoying at the time as I still needed it to get around!