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Door won’t open from inside or outside? Possible solution.

Fu Manchu

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Worth a shot. This has long been an issue with our Commodores. Other GM as well. Maybe this method will work for someone. Otherwise your cutting the door skin open with a multi-tool.

 

boombaby

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Nice tip from Burke's, Fu Manchu.

I'm wondering. I remember reading somewhere (a Holden Manual I think?) that
when the key is used to "double-lock" the doors on a Commodore (other GMH/GM
models too?) the only way to open them again is with the door key. The advice
was that they will NOT open from the inside either - that is, UNLESS/UNTIL the key
is used to unlock.

Notwithstanding that the tip/solution looks like a winner, does that method
sound like there is an issue with the vehicle's "smarts" (ie ECU etc)? You
know, re-double-locking works to get it all "back in sync"? (Sort of like on
your PC, when it locks up, "re-boot it".)

[Dare I suggest that - for the car/ECU - if nothing else works then disconnecting
the battery MIGHT have a similar effect too? (Albeit being the proverbial "nuke"
solution, though.)]

Just thinkin' out loud.
boombaby
 

Fu Manchu

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The weakness is in the door harness. Where the rubber boot enters the chassis. Also the plug for the door harness. I’d imagine Holden have borrowed the same harness or harness manufacturer as others. Same plugs etc.

That being said, the rear door harness can be accessed with the front door opened. Unplugging the rear door harness and using a 9v or 12v input putting current to the harness via the correct pin/s to manually override the actuator.
 

Immortality

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iu
 

OldBomb

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Years ago it was economical to break the rear quarter panel window.
 

NORTI

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The weakness is in the door harness. Where the rubber boot enters the chassis. Also the plug for the door harness. I’d imagine Holden have borrowed the same harness or harness manufacturer as others. Same plugs etc.

That being said, the rear door harness can be accessed with the front door opened. Unplugging the rear door harness and using a 9v or 12v input putting current to the harness via the correct pin/s to manually override the actuator.
the other part that I have started seeing breakdown is the plastic in the lock catch where it grabs the striker. Once the plastic starts to give out it wont release from the striker.
 
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