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Drift SS Ute

Discussion in 'VT - VX - VU - WH - V2' started by Harris2, Feb 28, 2017.

  1. Harris2

    Harris2 Member

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    Name: Chris
    Model: 01 Vu SS Ute
    Body Kit: N/A
    Colour: House Paint Dark Green (Yes house paint for the lolz)
    Engine Type: LS1
    Engine Mods: (Before it went bang)
    - Mellings Hi volume oil pump
    - Baffled Sump
    - No AC
    - No Power Steering
    - No Water Pump
    - Relocated Idler Pully
    - New leads/plugs oils etc etc
    - Custom 4inch Y pipe intake
    - 25% under driven pulley kit
    - Elite Engineering Catch Can
    Engine Bay Work:
    - Tray mount radiator setup
    - Remote water pump in tray and relocated overflow to tray
    - Remote electric power steering
    - Relocated battery to try
    - Oil Relocation Kit
    - Oil Cooler and fan
    - Power Steering Cooler
    - Custom Strut Brace
    - Reinforced Strut towers
    - Front bash bar
    - Stitch welded
    -ABS delete
    Tray work:
    - Custom spring/shock mounts and strut brace.
    - Hole cut in floor and scoop built for rear mount rad.
    - Rear cab wall cut for air flow.
    - Under side of tray tubed and braced.
    - Rear wing mounts
    - Cut tail gate
    Power: Factory 232xxxkm motor.
    Exhaust: Stock extractors twin 3inch straight pipes no cross over. Side exit
    Gearbox: T56 with Cube Short Shifter
    Diff: Mini Spool 4.11
    Steering: Modified knuckles
    Brakes: Stock with braided lines
    Suspension:
    - BC BR Coilovers 10kg front 12kg rear Spring rates
    - Relocated rear spring mounts and shock mounts
    - Camber kit/bushes in rear end.
    Wheels/Tyres/Guards:
    - Koya SF01 18x10+0 fronts and 18x10+5 rears + Other skidders etc
    - 235 RSR's on the front and just what ever on the rear.
    - 25mm hubcentric bolt on spacer on the front.
    - Blow torch and hammer widened front/rear guards.
    - Not as much bog as expected.
    Interior:
    - Entirely Stripped except basic wiring.
    - Custom dash
    - Switch panel
    - Sound deadening removed
    - Hydro (inline)
    - Isolator
    - Asus Tablet Dash
    - Sparco Fixed bucket seat
    - Random passenger seat
    - Sparco Harness 6 Point for both seats
    - Alloy door cards
    - Drift wheel
    - Bus hang ring
    Stereo:
    - Cheap headunits
    - Cheap 6x9s
    Build Period start: 1/12/15
    Cost: Don't even want to know.

    Future:
    - Twin turbo
    - Built head with cam motor. freshened up bottom end
    - Tube front
    - Tube rear
    - Rear diffuser
    - Fuel System
    - Few tweaks to the cooling system as its overly efficient
    - Cage
    - Slightly softer rear springs
    - Raise diff as I keep breaking axels
    - Move steering rack forward

    Instagram account has some more photos on it.
    https://www.instagram.com/cloudyharris/

    Probably some other stuff that I've missed but its a start.

    Car was built of the intentions to be different to all the Jap cars in the drifting scene and to rustle some feathers. All built at home in the shed with a few mates.

    Car was going great handled fairly well need to make a few changes. I was at the last 2 Drift Matsuri at QLD Raceway but will miss this one in march hoping to make it for the October one. Motor finally let go at the last Friday night drifts I went to. It started to knock pretty badly at OCT Matsuri so called it for the weekend. Did a oil change some thicker oil. Did the rear mount rad setup and took it out for 1 last go to test the cooling system and a few other things so that if it failed i'd only cook the broken motor and not the new one.

    Car preformed awesome and finally let go at the end. We're leaning towards a busted ring as its got zero power and is blowing smoke and bulk oil out one of the cylinders. Can't remember which tho. Surprised it lasted as long as it did for 232xxxkm's and lots of belting the piss out of it, guessing the oil cooler and regular oil changes helped.

    Few major things to note:
    -I tore my front strut towers off the body due to the car being so stiff. Thus reinforced.
    -The cut rear wall will be filled in as I was hoping air would flow through the cab and from under the car to cool the rad. But air ended up coming back into the cab so i'll be refilling that and running 2x fans there instead.
    -The tray seams are starting to tear apart as well due to stiff springs and tubed underneath. Will be stitch welding this before my next outing.
    - Coolant Temps wouldn't surpass 100degrees during a run and would drop back down to 70 before I got to start my second run. Oil temps wouldn't surpass 90ish and would drop down to 80ish. LS's prefer to run warm so i'm looking towards running multiple switches for my fans so I can stage them or even look at putting in a controller to do it automatically.

    P.s. I Do run the wing when i'm out drifting, just the below photo was the last Friday I went to and at matsuri I backed the car into a wall and bent all my mounts and hadn't built new ones yet.
    IMG_20170118_110328_902.jpg
    14721473_1241223875942338_5824405308831407035_n.jpg
    15232248_1287502814647777_6912304715178714112_n.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2017
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  2. _War_

    _War_ New Member

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    Awesome ute mate! I would love to see more of the setup you have in the tray and under the bonnet. Must be a hoot to drive, Can't wait to see what you do with it.
     
  3. Harris2

    Harris2 Member

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    Thanks mate, it is a ball to drive. Just needed a little more poke to get going as I was basically driving it flat to the floor 100% of the time. Wasn't really any throttle control lol.

    I binned the factory power steering as they hate drifting. They get hot and flog out on the regular so I opted for a Astra power steering electric pump. Got some lines made up and wired it in Power/earth/switch. Fairly easy. Just plumb in a Cooler on the low pressure side.

    After a heap of searching I found remote water pump adaptors that allowed me to bin the water pump and slap the adaptors in and then AN fittings and connect up to the tubing the runs to the rear of the car. I just run Davies Craigs biggest remote water pump EWP150. No thermostat and just moved everything down to the back of the car. I noticed after removing those two + the AC pump off the motor along with adding a under driven pulley kit (forgot to add that to my list above) it revved substantially more freely and felt more responsive.

    Mounted the coolers infront of the motor since there was now nothing there and made up a Y Piece intake 4inch and 2x pods. Fit the maf in there and worked a treat. My brother welded and helped me bend all the tubing up as he has a tig and a Speedwerx bender. I've just bought one so plan to bend all my tube front up.

    Engine bay has now been stripped in preparation for the next lot of work.
    And yes that's the JDM rising sun on my bonnet. haha

    Last two photos is when I ripped the strut tower off the body. Happened when I came off track at the first matsuri, have a feeling it must of had a front end knock at some point and was already weakened. We had to strap the car to a 4x4 and then wrap a winch strap around the strut to try move it over and weld it up at the event. Was a nightmare. see if I can find that photo.

    Had to cut all the weld out shift it back into position with the high lift jack and weld it all up again. Then we ran some plate around it to strengthen the area.
    20161123_175916_002.jpg
    20161029_152715.jpg 1479453714246.jpg received_1191749624223097.jpg received_1192726194125440.jpg
     
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  4. Harris2

    Harris2 Member

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    Found them. The crack was probably a good 40mm wide.

    We ended up taking the driver side wheel off before we continued.

    10431499_1070679499663444_7076391219570641178_n.jpg 10592919_1070679542996773_4839907024883491783_n.jpg
     
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  5. Trayner

    Trayner Fresh prince of Pakky

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    Thats pretty cool , that green isnt that bad ether haha.
     
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  6. _War_

    _War_ New Member

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    That's crazy how the strut tower split! But some good ingenuity to get it fixed.
     
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  7. Sandman

    Sandman Challenge Accepted

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    For memory those towers aren't actually welded, just bonded or whatever to the bay etc. Good job fixing and welding them up. You've got the heigh/wheels/colour spot on imo for a drift car too, nice to see something different drifting, though there is 3 utes running reasonably well in Vicdrift these days. Also hate to sound like an old lady but get a cage in there pronto, I was in a mates R32 at Winton last weekend and one of our other mates his one of the doors at around 10kmh, barely nudged it, but put a bloody big dint in the door and sill. Makes you think twice about the safety gear you're using thats all.
     
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  8. Harris2

    Harris2 Member

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    From what I could tell they were spot welded in a few places and then bonded with some type of glue/seam sealer. It split the inner guard which was a nightmare to try tidy up and reweld. Ended up just bashing it close enough with a hammer then welding a plate over the top.

    Thanks mate, I've always had a thing for the "stance" thing I like my credit card fitment and on the ground but must also be functional.

    I've been following sharkyz's build (Shane something? think he's one of the VIC boys). There's a few others that are kicking around up here as well as sedans. Its actually a pretty good group as we all get along pretty well compared to the jap boys who seem to bitch and carry on a lot.

    I've wanted to cage it before the last Matsuri drift event but ran out of time. There was a few crashes so I've made sure that I get one done before I head back out, especially with the new motor as I'll now be traveling a lot quicker. I've ordered some cage material through a mate which I'll hopefully get in the next few weeks. I avoided copy brides and cheap harnesses and went some ADR/FIA approved genuine sparco seats/harness. Cost me probably over 4x as much but defiantly know it wont break on me.

    I'll write up a post about my tray setup tomorrow at some stage.
     
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  9. Harris2

    Harris2 Member

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    I Decided to do a rear mount rad setup for basically no real reason other then for the hell of it at the time. Although now it will prove handy with the TT setup having substantially more room. The weight distribution is also possibly a bonus, even tho I've added more overall weight.

    I Originally had the top of the radiator moved forward to allow easier access to all the belts out on track.

    The plan was to cut the back cab wall out so air would come in via the windows, cut the floor out and then mount the rad and shroud it to the tailgate hole. Never got round to shrouding it yet and after testing I realised more air was coming in from under the car then I had expected so the hot air was coming back into the cab. Was like opening a oven door if you stuck your arm out past the seat. Bearable but uncomfortable. So that'll be getting re sealed back up.

    Firstly I drilled holes from the underside of the car in between the rails and then cut the area out to get the maximum amount of air flow. What I didn't realise at the time was that the rails are about 2inch to the left. They aren't centered.... So when I used a laser to mark up my tailgate to cut out to match the floor hole it was slightly to the left and ended up looking wack. so had to widen it one side. I then built a scoop out of folded sheet metal and nutcerted it into and it sits just above the lowest point on the diff. Hasn't made contact with the ground yet but it is acting as a good lawn mower. I will put some fly screen over the floor hole to try protect the rad.

    Mounted up the bar to mount the rad to and whipped up some brackets and put a rubber mount in and mounted it up to the factory pins. This way if the I get a rock into the radiator I'm able to race down to the wreckers and slap another one in without having to somehow modify it out on track.

    Bent up some 1.5inch ally tubing threw some bends in and wired in the water pump/fans onto the same switch (PS is on this switch as well as the oil cooler fan). The overflow bottle setup works... Kinda, if the water level is too high when the car turns off it pumps a lot of it out the overflow tube and creates suction then I loose like 2L of coolant... Need to work out a secondary overflow bottle setup.

    You can see my new shock mounts to regain some shock angle back and a strut brace to tie them together. Underneath the car is tubed between the rails in a few spots. I'll grab a photo tomorrow after work. I've also cut the existing spring mounts out in the body and moved them further in (for more low) as I received the wrong springs and didn't realise at the time (its a long story....) The tray is starting to tear apart between the wheel arches and the floor/side panels. Will stitch weld at some stage.

    Alloy pipes run through the cab in a single piece with plans of shielding it with insulation and some plate. They run into the cab where a AN fitting is welded on and some pushlock hose is connected that runs the final bit to the motor.

    Idle 55ish degrees
    On track queuing after a run dropped back quickly to 70
    During a run 90-100
    Oil temps was 80 in queue and 90 while doing the run

    Depends on how many runs I get and how long I'm queuing for but they were approx. averages.

    1478419340492.jpg 1478676240494.jpg

    Can see in this photo how the tailgate is cut off to one side to suit the cut hole in the floor that suits the rails.
    1478762228128.jpg IMG_20161027_210018.jpg IMG_20161106_164351.jpg IMG_20161122_223440.jpg received_1244853342246058.jpg
     
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  10. elless1

    elless1 Member

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    I wish i had another ute to play with. The pumped out guards with the jdm wheels and stretched tires,
    and the colour of the rims and the green. Would make an awesome streeter.

    Must be fun taking the holden ute on the track with all the jap cars ;)
     
  11. Harris2

    Harris2 Member

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    The amount of times I've been tempted to drive it on the road is unreal... I originally started to build a track car as I got a company car and my previous driving history is pretty bad to say the least. Trying to be sensible for once haha. + the 2 speed bumps near my house and a **** driveway means I cant even take it anywhere without trailering it which is a good way of stopping me.

    Gets lots of attention to say the least. Just need more seat time as every time I take it out I've changed something and have to re learn the car. :(
     
  12. elless1

    elless1 Member

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    Diggin the lsjdm plates too. haha. And the jdm sun under the bonnet.

    Sucks doing wheel alignments in the drive with a measuring tape and sockets.
    haha. Been there.

    Not good without a place to test it.

    Any videos of the best in action?
     
  13. Harris2

    Harris2 Member

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    Haha yeah one of those late night drunk ideas to try **** stir people.

    Mate sent me a decent video on FB and I haven't seen him since and I cant download it (are you allowed to share FB links???)... Hopefully the link works and the settings aren't private. Let me know, otherwise i'll try sort something else out... Got a few vids on my gopro but haven't downloaded them just yet.

    https://www.facebook.com/CloudyHarris/posts/1226128750785184?pnref=story

    Enjoy the Clappy exhaust. Factory headers then twin 3inch no mufflers/cats and no crossover. Sounds great down load but gets all clappy up top. As you can tell theres no throttle control and just flat out the whole time. So needed a little more power...
     
  14. Gaiter

    Gaiter Active Member

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    Alright, it's been bugging me. I cannot get the guards out of my head, how were they done? The backs I am guessing just stretched slightly but the fronts are way to wide/flexed to just be a stretch.

    Teach me!
     
  15. Harris2

    Harris2 Member

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    Blow torch and belted with a hammer and worked untill roughly the shape. And a thin layer of bog. All by eye hahaha

    My fronts fit huge wheels haha.

    Not even kidding. Front and rear are like this. Rear inner guards are cut out for clearances but I need to cut more out as its rubbing badly...

    Cant find any photos atm tho.
     
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  16. Gaiter

    Gaiter Active Member

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    They look really good. Cheers
     
  17. Harris2

    Harris2 Member

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    Thought I should stop being lazy and post up my interior.

    Basically its fully stripped, dash and everything behind it out. Every piece of interior, carpet sound deadening door cars. Everything, except the steering column. I still have power windows.

    I Bought a genuine sparco fixed back seat mounted it in with custom brackets but still attained the existing rails so it has tilt and slides forward/backwards. Steering wheel, hydro handbrake (asd Motorsport not a cheap random ebay one) which is cut inline to the rear brakes. Cube shifter (rip shifter knock off) with a brass bush. Had to file the bush down a bit because it wouldn't allow me to shift into reverse. Its also super tight and allows me to bash 2nd to third diagonally and never misses. Its great. Had To weld the handle together as the 2 bolts just wont hold even with strong lock tight.

    Passender is just a random bucket seat my mate had till I can afford another fixed back sparco. 6 point harnesses for both seats, Mounts are bolted to the floor with a 3inch plate 3mm thick both sides of the floor and rear wall shelf.

    Folded up some sheet metal to construct the dash, made sure I allowed room for the cage (which will be built this time round) installed oil temp, oil pressure and water temp gauges.

    Switches include.
    - Parkers/brakes
    - Headlights
    - Power steering, water pump and fans
    - Fuel pump
    - Ignition
    - Push button start.
    - Wipers single speed
    - Lights, tray/interior/engine bay
    - Isolator switch
    - Hazzards

    Ignition barrel was relocated onto the dash. To retain some form of security so without a key it wont start. The dash cluster was binned and my mate gave me his ASUS tablet. OBD2 wireless scanner was connected downloaded and paid for Dash command which gives me allllllllll the settings the ECU Collects. Timing, water temps, intake temps, revs, speedo etc etc. Only issue is that because its wireless there is a little delay. Not a concern for me as I'm not requiring up to date accurate information. ECU is relocated up under the dash as well as a very basic stereo. (love my music)

    Only things I need to do to the interior is new passenger seat, cage, boost gauge and to build a box over the rad pipes and insulate them to stop some of the heat for the passenger.

    Also have a fire extinguisher in the car.
    20160828_133548.jpg 20160828_153434.jpg 20160909_195910.jpg 1481179547691.jpg
     
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  18. Harris2

    Harris2 Member

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    Yesterday I had a little time to work on the ute. I've cut the whole front section off ready for tube front. In the photo I've only cut the rail from the front subframe bolt. But decided to cut it back to the strut tower and build a new mounting point. I'm planning on running twin 32nb pipe welded to a plate that will be bolted to another plate that's welded to the rails. Will allow me to unbolt it if it gets damaged. Its also off to one side of the rail, allowing at least 1inch more inner clearance for steering lock. Also the rails will now run straight out as from factory they kick off outwards. Which should add approx. 1/2 inch more room.

    Going to run the twins infront of the motor and a 2 bottom single top cooler. this will keep the weight closer in and wont hang out so far. Decided to ditch the factory headlights and opt for light bars and will tube it up in 32nb for strength. P/S and oil coolers will be mounted in front of the wheels.

    Just as we cut the plates to mount to the rails/struts my mates welded packed it in so that ended that for the day, so I started to cut the rear off as i'm going to build a rear diffuser. It'll have empty sections behind the wheel and a basic fin style in the middle. Also hard to explain. I'll try find a photo at some stage. I'm going to cut the rear up higher on the corner and run some 32nb tube on the edge that will run back inside the tray and brace up in there. Doing this so that small to medium knocks wont just cave the rear corners in badly and to try protect the rad.

    I've also grabbed some materials to build a sheet metal pan brake that'll I'll build once the welders back up and working again.
    17176052_1399255463472511_1498588415_o.jpg 17176240_1399255470139177_1262174638_o.jpg

    I've also order some stainless turbo manifolds, I was going to use VE manifolds flipped but the turbo's would of been in the bonnet. New front wheel bearings as mine were starting to sound like a train. Order 1x Mamba GTX 3076 .64 billet ball bearing turbo, a kgmotors twin turbo intercooler (random ebay brand...) a 38mm 10psi turbosmart gate and a few other bits and pieces. This'll allow me to fab up all the piping while I save for another gate/turbo. This also allows me to work out where to run all my front tube work for clearances.

    Sorry for the long posts... Tend to get carried away. haha
     
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  19. Harris2

    Harris2 Member

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    Continued to cut more of the rear out and clean it up. I'm almost ready to start tubing it I just need to stich weld a few joins and finish cutting off the old pipe work underneath and still waiting for the welder to come back. Also waiting for my new digital angle gauge to arrive which is now late...
    17195185_1402347176496673_853853369_o.jpg 17200368_1402347189830005_1696994010_o.jpg 17229978_1402347239830000_994262768_o.jpg

    Found a photo basically how I want my diffuser to look. Fins in the middle, with the big cutout section behind the wheel with 2x cannards there.
    15109348_1166253323469526_1318928565375336337_n1.jpg

    Started to get a few parts rock up, Order a 513 piece assorted high tensile bolt kit and a heap of nutcerts. My turbo manifolds rocked up, they actually look pretty decent for $268 posted.
    17149068_1403111699753554_447552479_o.jpg

    And a photo of the car at its first matsuri. Its had 2 different greens more of a flat green and the now current darker glossy.
    2.jpg
     
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  20. BoganEditionVUSS

    BoganEditionVUSS Member

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    The flat green looks sexy as
     

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