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Discussion in 'VF Holden Commodore (2013 - 2017)' started by veessv, Mar 31, 2014.
Thanks for that. Will look into it. Its good when someones already done the hard yards....
There are two versions, the 14/15 (dimming) and the 16/17 (non dimming) - assuming that's differentiating between the VF and VF2.
You bought the 16/17 model I presume? Wonder what's different about the 14/15 apart from the dimming quality.
Not sure the modded one is worth $150 extra though.
Was only one version available when I brought it, but that was back in 2016. He must’ve made an updated dimming version.
Nope. Not that I can see and ALC don't have any yet it would appear.
Available for the 14/15 and 16/17*
Note 2016 and 2017 models run with DRL full time, so this harness will make them not dim at night and will work while high beams are on.
There is a 14/15 model available and a 16/17 model available. The wording is strange, but it sounds like the 14/15 harness will dim the drl while the other lifts are on.
Probably worth asking Maverick Man.
Both HSV and Holden dimm their DRLs via PWM. None of them power the LEDs with straight battery power.
I believe that HSV somehow use even less power than the Holden DRLs so they use a second PWM reducer on top of the Holden one.
What I have figured out that I will do is use the Fog Light power to run the DRLs at night. I'll put PWM module in line. Should work great because with the factory setup the DRLs and fog lights are never on at the same time. And since I have an VF2 sport front on my Calais I don't have the Fog lights anymore..
An option for those without Fog lights would be to use the module mentioned on page 8 from the USA and add an adjustable PWM module inline, then turn the knob to find the dimming level you want!
Just an update about the flickering DRL issue I was having.
While waiting for a replacement dimming module to arrive to test I was reading back thru this thread & seen a post by stooge (start of page 4) about wiring up just the DRL-R side connector of the dimming module to the vehicles DRL harness near the connector so that both DRLs are being run from 1 cable & odly enough this has been working fine now for a couple of days with no flickering on startup or while dimmed.
Previously I had the dimming module connected directly to each side DRL (by cutting the purple 12v & black ground cable of each DRL & connecting them to DRL-L & DRL-R cables from the dimming module).
Unsure why stooge’s method seems to work rather then direct connection to each DRL.
Wished I could view those fotos that are on page 4 for the DRL by stooge,the fotos won’t come up.
This is my take on it.
The left and right DRLs are possibly run off separate PWM Drivers at full brightness.
The module as stated uses the ground to "resist" the current to the negative side of the DRL.
This module may only contain resistors (in the earth lines) relying on the PWM Drivers to continue to supply the positive voltage to the DRLs and therefore the resisters raise the earth (negative) reference from zero to say 6VDC effectively lowering the voltage across the DRL from 12VDC (nominally) to 6VDC and therefore dimming the DRL's.
If this is the case and the module is fed with both PWM supplies, the module may start to oscillate if both drivers are not in sync.(which they wouldn't be) and therefore cause flickering.
If I'm correct and I'm not saying I am, then it's a cheap/simple way of dimming factory DRLs
Wired my DRLs the same way as stooge did,I didn’t use a relay but worked straight up,I was a bit heavy handed when pulling apart the wireing plug I broke the male plug off its mounting,what a **** trying to get them back together again as there isn’t much room to move so if you try parting the plugs be gentle and careful.
I couldn’t even get that connector unplugged as it was too tight & I didn’t have a lot of space so I just removed some of the cloth tape from the wiring a bit below the connector & cut the 3 wires & patched in the dimming harness there then heatshrinked connections & used cloth tape to make it all look neat & almost genuine again.
Everything still working perfect so far with no flickering.
I'm interested in the DRL mod, just like Stooge has done. But not sure.
Need pictures of the install.
I have to do the mod again, I am just waiting on some more dimmers to arrive.
I will take more pics and post it again.
For people that have done this mod, What rating fuse should be used in the fuse tap connector?
10A will be sufficient
with any luck this helps a bit, I got half way into it and then remembered I was supposed to be taking pics .
you can get the fuse tap at jaycar pretty cheap
God damn brilliant. Many thanks stooge. Purchasing today.
Hi did you guys need to by another relay to be able to do this ?
Thanks Stooge. WELL DONE
I wired my DRLs the same way stooge did. It worked straight up.
If you want to use a fuse tap just like stooge did, you need to drill a 3/16 hole in the fuse box.
Removing the right-hand side headlight plug. There’s a red clip at the top of the plug. Use a medium size flat head screwdriver and push in between the red clip and plug.
I used loom tube from Jay car after heat-shrinking all connections & electrical taped the dimming harness.
Also the Green and yellow wires are not needed and can be remove.
Relay is not required
Glad it worked for you.
With the hole in the fuse box i just match it to the thickness of the wire running through it so its a snug fit just incase water hits that spot.
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