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Dual battery or capacitor setup ideas??

DmanVT

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Just a little more information for you, put basically..

The lights dimming is due to voltage drop across your wires. Performing a big 3 wire upgrade with thicker wiring decreases the resistance of the wire, which decreases the power dissipated across your wiring as by ohms law voltage = current * resistance and Power= current * voltage.. or power = resistance * current^2. Thus, less resistance = less voltage drop = less power dissipated = more power for the rest of your system, including your dimming lights!

If this doesn't work as effectively as you would like, you'll need a battery that is capable of supplying more current!

Capacitors are merely a bandaid solution that resist the change in voltage of your system, not really recommended. Do it right, do it properly.

Thanks mate, i have heard mixed opinions so just thought no harm in asking :) Local audio shop said to go dual batteries one for all boot and other for main and cap for when the bass comes in to hold power.

But they just say that coz they want to make a sale haha

Thanks for the input, and with the big 3 does it need to be 0 gauge??? would this do?? ...
Battery Cable - Per Metre, 125 Amp, Black - Supercheap Auto Australia

or would welding flex stuff work??? like the stuff they use for earthing wires in arc welders?? or should i get 0 gauge??

cheers
 

DmanVT

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really? I would have done it in this order:

add second battery...

So if i do big 3 would you then suggest getting a second battery??
i have another battery at home so for the time i could add that in once i get an isolator and see if it helps?
Can anyone suggest an isolator that would do the job or do i just get any 12v isolator around 100amp coz stock alternator is like 80 isnt it?
Dual Battery Isolator 12V Ideal for Dual Battey Setups in 4X4 By Low Voltage | eBay
would that one do?

Cheers
 

AmmoJammo

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I wouldn't isolate it at all.. just been aware of voltage, and soon you'll see how long you can play it for before you can't start the car.

I say just add a second battery, because then everything that's putting the load on the electrical system is connected directly to the rear battery...

engine ground, front battery ground, and alternator charge wire are going to make little to no difference, in fact, you could get away with a single 8ga cable from front to rear, which would effectively just be charging the rear battery.

Just be aware, when running a rear battery, you need to fuse both ends of the power cable that runs from front to rear ;)
 

StoneX

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You also need to use a sealed battery that doesn't vent gases into the car.
 

AmmoJammo

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You also need to use a sealed battery that doesn't vent gases into the car.

maybe...

the amount of gas generated really isn't an issue... legally, its meant to be in a battery box, even if its a sealed battery..

of course, for some reason, this law doesn't apply to the newer commodores with the battery just chucked in the boot, no battery box, nothing...
 

DmanVT

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I wouldn't isolate it at all.. just been aware of voltage, and soon you'll see how long you can play it for before you can't start the car.

I say just add a second battery, because then everything that's putting the load on the electrical system is connected directly to the rear battery...

engine ground, front battery ground, and alternator charge wire are going to make little to no difference, in fact, you could get away with a single 8ga cable from front to rear, which would effectively just be charging the rear battery.

Just be aware, when running a rear battery, you need to fuse both ends of the power cable that runs from front to rear ;)

Ahh ok well yer that makes sense, so you say no isolator at all?? what if i put one on though would it cause any problems?? id just rather never have the issue of flattening and they are fairly cheap like $50 or so. Would it put too much strain on the alternator to charge the second battery as well?

and so right now i have 0ga running from front battery to rear so if i put in a second battery with isolator would i go:

1: From Main bat to fuse ( now in )
2: The zero gauge from main bat fuse to isolator
3: Isolator aux out to fuse on secondary bat
4: Fuse in boot to aux battery
5: Then Aux battery to distributer to amps etc
6: Ground the aux battery to chassis

So i need 2 fuses to do it?

does that make sense?
 

vx_commodore

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1: From Main bat to fuse ( now in )
2: The zero gauge from main bat fuse to isolator
3: Isolator aux out to fuse on secondary bat
4: Fuse in boot to aux battery
5: Then Aux battery to distributer to amps etc
6: Ground the aux battery to chassis

So i need 2 fuses to do it?

does that make sense?

Sound's about right.

Ohh, And +1 on the batt install.

All cap's do is give power for 1 split second then take all the power away to recharge....Just a waste of time....
 

DmanVT

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Sound's about right.

Ohh, And +1 on the batt install.

All cap's do is give power for 1 split second then take all the power away to recharge....Just a waste of time....

yer that was my opinion but i thought to myself if they are so **** why do they make them

so thought what better place to ask :)
 

Deuce

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I would suggest circuit breakers rather than fuses, I had them in my last car (149.6dbl, screen, PS2 etc) and it made life easier while tinkering/upgrading and general life.

Good Luck, sounds like fun!
 
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