6+2 are pretty common now, my 6970's have 2 of them (four in total) so I had to ad-hoc a new PSU, and sadly the only stock around was an Antec High Current Gamer 900W, which to be honest is a POS, I have had to drop my CPU OC down a bit from 4.2GHZ cos there isn't enough stable juice, even on independent rails. I couldn't strongly stress enough how important it is you have a decent PSU when you have kit that can potentially draw a fair bit of juice. A GTX760 OC with a decent clock on it can pull just shy of 330w peak and a game like BF4 can get it there. Only 75W will come from the PCIe bus (via the 24 and supplemental 4 or 4 x 2 +) and a 6 pin can only do 150w leaving a touch over 100w to the SATA to 6+2 adapter. The trouble with that is most average to junk PSU's don't run independent rails (unlike high quality PSU's with dedicated PCIe, like Corsair/Seasonic) so you can end up with some pretty dodgy, dirty and ripply juice. Most PSU manufacturers don't expect much more than the standard < 10w x 2 peak a couple of HDD's (or Disc ROM) use to go down that pipe.
Something just went pop, flipped the house circuit breakers and not pc won't turn on. Time for a new PSU.
Lol. Serves me right trying to do stuff on the cheap. Going to pick up a ANTEC HCG 620w PSU today and hope that the PSU failure was just that.
Change of plan, Corsair tx650 purchased instead. Now the wait until work is over, I can get home and find out if it was just the PSU or if my machine is proper ####ed.
Why purchase a PSU that doesn't support SLI let alone one that isn't even 700w-750w with dedicated high amperage rail to keep it in it's efficiency range. Power supply you purchased can only supply 624w MAX on the 12v rail which is only 56A from memory. Don't you dare use adapters Raf! Physical HDD when spun up use 20-35w each. Each fan 80mm+ Use 8-10w each. Average CPU TDP is 78w Allow 100w For Motherboard Plus your Gfx card being gtx 760 at full load will pull 330w give or take 10%. Should always do research before you think a cheap PSU is a good PSU.
Good choice. Fingers crossed. If it threw a breaker your chances are pretty good. He's running a single card. The Antec HCG 620 or the Corsair TX650 would/will be more than sufficient.
Won't keep it in it's efficiency range. PSU will be running hot all the time. Look at the rundown I made of power consumption. Ideally at full load, You want to have 100w headroom for spikes. Lets imagine he has: 2HDD Like the average person. 50w spinning up Intake, Exhaust & CPU fan. even say 24w CPU 78w full load 100w for board including memory, usb peripherals etc. 330w for gfx full load & factory OC. and for some weird reason he's also burning a dvd 20w That's the 592w +- 10w His psu delivers 624w MAX on the 12v Rail. The efficiency curve on the TX650 by corsair peaks at 60% load. 60% load on 624w is around the 380w range. The PSU fan will be running close to full when under load. Pumping out close to 30DB of noise alone. That's when the argument is like cars. Yes it'll work, How long for? No idea. It might work forever, It might create bad ripples. It's like the people that put boost down a standard motor, 6psi is the average people say is safe. Others say 10psi. Some people never have an issue and others have immediate failure. Headroom & safety is always necessary for longevity & life of a product. EDIT: Just remember a 760 OC is a power hungry card. Moreso than my 290x .
Based on what I read online, the TX650 will do the job and leave headroom for overclocking. I also didn't buy a PSU that supports SLI because I have no intention of running SLI.
As I said, It'll work. But for how long? No one knows. You have the 5yr warranty right? So what is your system? CPU? Motherboard? Hdd's? Fans? I'm curious And generally, future upgradability is BOSS. Without having to purchase a new PSU if down the track you want a second card. Just saying
You want something that won't sweat every time you use it. Like you said you did it cheap the first time, so do it properly now.
Gigabyte P4 something or other mobo i5 Processor, 2.67Ghz I think 2 Sata HDD, both 7200rpm 8GB 1333Mhz RAM DDR3 3x 100mm fans (Thinking about putting a 120 too) Based on this site: eXtreme Outer Vision - eXtreme tools for computer enthusiasts Recommended PSU for my system would be a 465W - 480W, so I am pretty comfortable running a 650W since that will be sitting around 70-80% load I won't be, based on EVERYTHING on the internet except Hozy, I will be fine. I think I'm going to do with the internet on this one, mainly because while Hozy's car analogy does seem relevant, in my experience the computer nerds that are on PC forums are much more ruthless in tearing holes in peoples rigs.
Biggest flaw instantly, GTX 760 OC that you have can pull more than half that alone. But do as you wish and god speed As I said, It'll work. But for how long is the question. It's not like Ive never been there, Done that or have an elaborate rig sitting on my desk or anything.
Hmm, this page suggests that it only draws 158W ASUS GeForce GTX 760 DirectCU II OC review - Graphics card power consumption and Hardware installation In 2 way SLI they draw around 330W, but we've already established that I have no interest in running SLI.
FML, I kept reading the thread title everytime I posted thinking it was your thread even though it's VS thread. You'll get your 100w headroom Just don't lose your 5year warranty paperwork. Point and laugh, single 760 OC will pull 190w but yeah. There is your headroom hahaha I'll crawl back under my fkthefirstweekbackatwork blanket.
Haha, yeah I thought you may have been thinking SLI. Yeah, paperwork is being kept as I will be claiming this as a tax write off.
Your figures on HDD's are wrong. There are reports of anomolies on power on, of spikes in the 20w mark, but spikes on power on aren't unusual in the electrical world. If this were true it will occur before POST and any other components initialisation anyway. The Hitachi 7.2k 4Tb is one of the most demanding HDD's on the market and it peaks on read/write at 9.3w. Hell, the 2Tb SAS and SCSI 15k drives in the kit I manage at work peak at 16.6w and they smash any consumer grade devices. Also when you game you're looking at a collective of kit in use gaming, being the CPU, RAM, motherboard and VGA. The active HDD will barely peak if at all as it neatly buffers into VRAM, RAM, L1 (registers) and L2 (L3 with AMD). Of those only the CPU and VGA will 'peak' and what we keep coming back to is peaks. At the end of the day power management functions in this collective will do what the name suggests and manage the load. Chiming out a whole bunch of numbers on paper looks good, but much like sythetic benthmarks, does not equate to actual real world. Your use of the word spikes too, what does that mean? Spikes are bad and a decent quality PSU will eliminate most spikes or ripples, do you mean this to be peaks? I completely agree that this will not be a good solution for overclocking. Anyway Jes it'll be fine, how do I know? Because I ran a much meaner (not better, just more power hungry) machine than yours on a Corsair HX620 for 3 years. The thing barely cracked a sweat. With the addition of the second card I had no choice but to upgrade PSU and the HX now runs my HTPC.
Yeah, everything should be fine.... provided my old PSU didn't take anything (or everything) with it in a blare of glory. I take a bit of comfort in the fact the pop was very small, there was no smoke or sparks and there was only the slightest not even burning smell, but smell of something electronic running very hot. And the fact when I push the power button NOTHING happens, no lights, no sounds, no noises. Which based on what I read is more in line with a toast PSU rather than a toast Mobo. All will be revealed around 7:15pm this evening when I get and put in the new PSU. PS, Sorry for the thread hijack VS-S.
