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eBay HID kits

DUK13Y

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Has anyone had experience with the eBay HID kits? There are some 55w conversions selling for $65 but with that price, the expected quality scares me. I've bought a few cheap ebay things before that have worked fine, however have bought others that have died or just not been very good.

So if anyone has experience with these kits, comments would be helpful
Thanks

Here's a link to some I'm talking about:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI...21155&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_4237wt_1005
 

2DIE

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Don't do it unless you can get projector type head lights, I feel like doing a U-turn and chasing people down with HID's that glare all over the place and blind me at night. I cant even see the white lines on the road when it happens.

Not sure about the ones in the link but I wouldn't go over 4300k either, once they go in to the blue spectrum you get less visibility. You can see reflective surfaces from further but thats about it.
 

SweetWagon

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Has anyone had experience with the eBay HID kits? There are some 55w conversions selling for $65 but with that price, the expected quality scares me. I've bought a few cheap ebay things before that have worked fine, however have bought others that have died or just not been very good.

So if anyone has experience with these kits, comments would be helpful
Thanks

Here's a link to some I'm talking about:
55W 50W HID CONVERSION KIT XENON H3 H1 H4L H7 H9 (eBay item 270697121155 end time 30-Jan-11 19:11:13 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats

They do seem to be getting cheaper by the day, But in the end you only get what you pay for. Those ones you listed are 50w - far too bright for low beam in any on road vehicle. you need 35w HID kit.. I'd recommend this eBay seller eBay Australia Shop - pointblankauto: H4 H L, Straight Reducer, HID Replacement Bulbs myself and a few mates have purchased kits off him and they have been flawless. they use Philips P/L bulbs and decent ballasts.

Cheers
 

DUK13Y

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Don't do it unless you can get projector type head lights, I feel like doing a U-turn and chasing people down with HID's that glare all over the place and blind me at night. I cant even see the white lines on the road when it happens.

Not sure about the ones in the link but I wouldn't go over 4300k either, once they go in to the blue spectrum you get less visibility. You can see reflective surfaces from further but thats about it.

Yeah its for a VYII berlina so I've got projectors. I have read everywhere that mercs,bmw's, etc all run 5300k-5700k HID's as they produce the most lumens. I have had 6000k in my lancer and the visibility from them was great.

They do seem to be getting cheaper by the day, But in the end you only get what you pay for. Those ones you listed are 50w - far too bright for low beam in any on road vehicle. you need 35w HID kit.. I'd recommend this eBay seller eBay Australia Shop - pointblankauto: H4 H L, Straight Reducer, HID Replacement Bulbs myself and a few mates have purchased kits off him and they have been flawless. they use Philips P/L bulbs and decent ballasts.

Cheers

Ah ok then. So go 50w for high beam? But being projector lights, does it matter what wattage they are as they cut off below eye-level anyway?
I'll definitely look into that seller. Look much more reliable than the others i've seen. How long have you and your mates had them? Any problems at all or...?

Thanks guys :)
 

a1k3m1

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yeah man anything over 35w will just BBQ anyones eye sockets.. even 35w can be too bright at times, and even though they point downwards when you hit potholes and bumps they will somewhat still flick up, and flash them probably being worse... Defiantly get the 50w for the high beams though hah..

ive got a set in mine and wouldn't go back to normal globes, their 10 times stronger than normal globes as ive dropped them on the ground a few times lol.. and apparently the globes never blow as they dont have a filament, so unless they have some kind of impact they will last forever..

ive read somewhere that 6000k temperature is the ideal temperature for brightness and everything, anything more and it goes blue and yuk, and anything less is yellow which also is yuk hah,
ive got a set of the Phillips HIDs in mine and they are awesome, (Which the listed seller has).. had them for about 10 months now and they get used heaps, (as all my work is night driving).. only problems ive had is them not firing up sometimes when the lights are on Automatic mode and i try starting the car. But just starting the car first then the lights it hasnt missed a beat.. I also found it quite difficult in trying to mount the damn ballast somewhere, as its pretty squishy behind the battery and the air box, and since the lowbeam and hibeam use separate ballasts (in my kit anyways) it takes up quite abit of room.

Also if your getting a low beam kit make sure you get a Bi-Xenon kit, as some kits have a H.I.D low beam and a halogen Highbeam globe which kinda defeat the whole idea.. so yeah go after what they call a Bi-Xenon kit, you'll see it has 2 plasma ball things inside the globe instead of just one...

hope ive helped ya out somewhat, good luck dude..
 

SweetWagon

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Yeah its for a VYII berlina so I've got projectors. I have read everywhere that mercs,bmw's, etc all run 5300k-5700k HID's as they produce the most lumens. I have had 6000k in my lancer and the visibility from them was great.

Ah ok then. So go 50w for high beam? But being projector lights, does it matter what wattage they are as they cut off below eye-level anyway?
I'll definitely look into that seller. Look much more reliable than the others i've seen. How long have you and your mates had them? Any problems at all or...?

Thanks guys :)

Yeah 50w in high beam will be ok (if you decide to convert high beam to HID aswell). HID's output much more light (lumens) per watt compared to standard halogen globes hence only needing 35w instead of 50w. We have had them between 6-8 months and havent missed a beat. I installed 6 HID's into a mates VY (low beam/high beam/foglights) and all have been fine thus far.

yeah man anything over 35w will just BBQ anyones eye sockets.. even 35w can be too bright at times, and even though they point downwards when you hit potholes and bumps they will somewhat still flick up, and flash them probably being worse... Defiantly get the 50w for the high beams though hah..

ive got a set in mine and wouldn't go back to normal globes, their 10 times stronger than normal globes as ive dropped them on the ground a few times lol.. and apparently the globes never blow as they dont have a filament, so unless they have some kind of impact they will last forever..

ive read somewhere that 6000k temperature is the ideal temperature for brightness and everything, anything more and it goes blue and yuk, and anything less is yellow which also is yuk hah,
ive got a set of the Phillips HIDs in mine and they are awesome, (Which the listed seller has).. had them for about 10 months now and they get used heaps, (as all my work is night driving).. only problems ive had is them not firing up sometimes when the lights are on Automatic mode and i try starting the car. But just starting the car first then the lights it hasnt missed a beat.. I also found it quite difficult in trying to mount the damn ballast somewhere, as its pretty squishy behind the battery and the air box, and since the lowbeam and hibeam use separate ballasts (in my kit anyways) it takes up quite abit of room.

Also if your getting a low beam kit make sure you get a Bi-Xenon kit, as some kits have a H.I.D low beam and a halogen Highbeam globe which kinda defeat the whole idea.. so yeah go after what they call a Bi-Xenon kit, you'll see it has 2 plasma ball things inside the globe instead of just one...

hope ive helped ya out somewhat, good luck dude..

The bulb requires a large voltage to 'ignite' hence why they may not ignite whilst the alternator is not running, but this is really dependant upon the quality of the ballast and cars electrical system. I have found on the VY's a large flat space under the headlight perfect for mounting the ballast's with supplied adhesive pads (enough room for 2-3 each side infact!).. Bi-Xenon is only required when replacing H4 globes where vy's do not run H4 (they run separate high/low beams).

Only issue converting high beam to HID is you will no longer have the ability to "flash" your highbeams, as HID bulbs have a "warm up" period of a few seconds
 

DUK13Y

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Yeah 50w in high beam will be ok (if you decide to convert high beam to HID aswell). HID's output much more light (lumens) per watt compared to standard halogen globes hence only needing 35w instead of 50w. We have had them between 6-8 months and havent missed a beat. I installed 6 HID's into a mates VY (low beam/high beam/foglights) and all have been fine thus far.

Sounds good. I'll be looking into this very shortly me thinks :)

The bulb requires a large voltage to 'ignite' hence why they may not ignite whilst the alternator is not running, but this is really dependant upon the quality of the ballast and cars electrical system. I have found on the VY's a large flat space under the headlight perfect for mounting the ballast's with supplied adhesive pads (enough room for 2-3 each side infact!).. Bi-Xenon is only required when replacing H4 globes where vy's do not run H4 (they run separate high/low beams).

Only issue converting high beam to HID is you will no longer have the ability to "flash" your highbeams, as HID bulbs have a "warm up" period of a few seconds

That's what I thought yeah. Probably won't be converting Highbeams simply because I've already got phillips crystal vision's in them and they run at 5300k so colour difference is not too great so as to make them look stupid running next to 6000k. Also I want that option to flash headlights. Was annoying in my lancer having H4's and not being able to do that.
 

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