ECU Reset

[Kung-Foo-Kamel]

Just have a update on the ecu reset problem, just remove the negative battery terminal and then remove the factory radio from the dash wait a minute then put it back in and reconnect the terminal, the stupid factory radio has built in backup power and helps keep the ecu/bcm memory, my ute has a pioneer stereo and is the reason it resets easy. everytime I do a exhaust upgrade on a Alloytec I reset the ecu now

It may be different for a gen3/4

Hopefully this helps someone

Cheers

KFK

 

[andyman]

does it keep the fuel consumption averages etc in the dash when you disconnect the battery terminal etc

 

[Russell6]

Power train warning - ECU?
I am not a mechanic but I have checked most things suggested by others including removing the negative battery terminal and waiting a while. This did actually 'solve' the problem for a day or so then the warning message came back on. My local garage are suggesting a new ECU!!! Expensive! If I have to I have to but I haven't noticed anyone else on this forum mentioning changing the ECU?

I am told that ECU's cannot be used twice ie no breakers yard part?

If the 'local mechanic' changes the ECU then apparently Holden have to recalibrate (more expense) and if that doesn't cure the fault I still have the problem and a new ECU that I didn't need. What a dilemma!

Holden say to cure the fault could cost up to $1500 at worst case scenario. Do I bite the bullet? At least if they try the ECU they could put it back on the shelf if not the problem eh? I believe the sensors have been checked.

When all else fails I will have to try the 'all else'!

Russell6

 

[Big Red VF-SII Go-kart]

I can well understand the desire to increase performance, but electronics will get back to you: as you put a CAI mod on the car, this has upset MAF variables relating to air flow — in essence, there is an 'implausible rate', recorded as abnormal and one that the MAF/ECU cannot accustom to within operating parameters, so you get erratic running behaviour (especially noticeable at idle). You cannot recalibrate the MAF or ECU beyond what its lower and upper limits are — even tunes will upset the balance.

Removal of engine / main fuse for 20 seconds or idle at 3,500rpm 10 seconds is a long-time trick for resetting ECUs. It was frequently employed on my old GM 3.8 V6 in VP Commodore.

 

[Commy SV6]

Power train warning - ECU?
I am not a mechanic but I have checked most things suggested by others including removing the negative battery terminal and waiting a while. This did actually 'solve' the problem for a day or so then the warning message came back on. My local garage are suggesting a new ECU!!! Expensive! If I have to I have to but I haven't noticed anyone else on this forum mentioning changing the ECU?

I am told that ECU's cannot be used twice ie no breakers yard part?

If the 'local mechanic' changes the ECU then apparently Holden have to recalibrate (more expense) and if that doesn't cure the fault I still have the problem and a new ECU that I didn't need. What a dilemma!

Holden say to cure the fault could cost up to $1500 at worst case scenario. Do I bite the bullet? At least if they try the ECU they could put it back on the shelf if not the problem eh? I believe the sensors have been checked.

When all else fails I will have to try the 'all else'!

Russell6

Mate, count me in! I have the same problem as yours, this powertrain warning light just wont go away. I've had 2 x o2 sensors replaced (pre-cat bank 1 and 2), software upgrade but this warning light will come up again after say 10-20 kms of driving. Holden says oh it could be the ECU after they had my car for 3 times.

I am not a mechanic but its pretty poor blaming the ECU when my car is only 4 years old. I believe its a quick way for them to get out of it, oh yeah just say its the ECU, tell him it'll cost $1500 to fix it and he will go away sort of thing.
If you decided to bite the bullet, get Holden replace the ECU and tell them that if a new ECU fitted dont fix the problem you want your money back and make sure you get this in writing.
At the moment my car has been in an independent workshop for over 3 days, they are going to thoroughly check the car for any vacuum leaks, lose wiring, cats problem etc and if they couldnt fault anything they will get the ECU tested by a company called AFI to see if the ECU is buggered.

Please let us know how you go mate! Cheers!

 

[Shorty33]

there are several threads about this problem, which seems to be reasonably common, and perhaps getting commoner ...

Commy SV6 - I'm very interested to hear what your two independents have to say.

 

[Commy SV6]

there are several threads about this problem, which seems to be reasonably common, and perhaps getting commoner ...

Commy SV6 - I'm very interested to hear what your two independents have to say.

Independent garage says its my cat converters! They had this computer mumbo jumbo guy to test the ECU etc and the ECU is good. During the testing everytime they "opened" her up, the reading of the 2 x post-cat sensors gone up the roof or something like that apparently so I had 2 x new cats fitted. Drove the car for about 50kms no warning light, I was jumping for joy and then she came up again! -.-'' Took the car back in there, scanned the code, these 2 codes came up: PO0420 and PO2098.
PO0420 -> Catalyst operating efficiency below threshold - bank 1
PO2098 -> Post catalyst fuel trim too lean - bank 2

God knows where to go from here, the car is going back there on Monday for them to check all the o2 sensors readings and what nots. New cats were fitted so if these codes came up it could only be 2 things:
1. aftermarket cats ain't compatible
2. the 2 x o2 post-cat sensors has failed again due to bad cats problem in the first place

Sorry to hijack this "ECU Reset" thread but hopefully this will help some of youse blokes who has the same problem as mine!

 

[Russell6]

This is Russell6, see above about Power Train warning. Bit the bullet and took the car to Holden, First time paid for an hour and they 'checked' and swapped things around, whatever that means, 'told to see how it went'. Next day warning came on again, took the car back and they changed the ECU. Had the car back almost a week and so far no problems. Total cost $1270. (not counting the cost of private mechanics, who couldn't locate the fault!!!) I asked would they have the new ECU back if it didn't cure the fault? Very non committal and said I would have to 'negotiate' with the service manager, which probaly means that they wouldn't. I had to get my car fixed as I will be selling it soon, going abroad. Thanks for all the advice folks.
Russell6

 

[hendobrahhh]

Hey guys, new to this site, but went and looked at a vz sv6 manual, (190kw) took it for a test drive and it did 0-100 in about 9-10 seconds. I know the girl and its been babied all its life, could i reset the ecu to make a difference? If you could let me know by email at [email protected]

cheers

 

[VE GTs Mark]

Actually for these cars the way to go is disconnect (pull the plug out) of the mass airflow sensor and the air temp sensor for a few seconds while ignition is off then in this order re connect the air tem sensor then the mass air flow sensor. Then start the car and let it idle for at least 5 seconds turn the car of and restart works like a charm